Can skincare fade pigmentation, and which ingredients actually work?

If age spots or general skin discoloration are bothering you, then this is the perfect time of year to start the battle.

Although UVA rays from the sun can play a key role in aggravating pigmentation, starting a pigmentation treatment plan before summer hits, when we’re less likely to be outside as much, gives you a head start.

Pigmentation is formed because ‘generally, UV rays,
hormones or inflammation tell melanocytes in our skin to make more melanin and distribute it differently into skin cells,’ explains facial aesthetics doctor Dr Maryam Zamani. 'That pigment sits in the epidermis and sometimes even the dermis of the skin. The depth of the pigment determines how easy it is to treat.’

Which skincare ingredients can fade pigmentation?

Many topical ingredients can reduce pigmentation by blocking pigment production, speeding up skin turnover, or reducing inflammation. Traditionally, Hydroquinone was seen as the best ingredient for clearing pigmentation under medical guidance, but now there are plenty of newer alternatives that don’t require a prescription.

‘Azelaic acid and topical tranexamic acid are my personal favourites for the treatment of melasma or post-inflammatory pigmentation,’ says Dr Zamani. ‘But retinoids, niacinamide, vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and kojic acid can all be useful in combination regimes.'

Dr Maryam's top tips for treating pigmentation

1. It takes patience
   Treatments take time to make a difference. With consistent daily use of active ingredients, first visible changes often take 4-8 weeks. More
   meaningful improvements typically take 8-12 weeks or longer. But some pigmentation may require months of treatment and maintenance.
2. Be consistent
   Pigmentation can easily return. Using the best facial sunscreen daily and the correct strengths and formulations of topical therapies can keep pigment suppressed. I always recommend a long-term maintenance plan after initial clearing.
3. Try in-clinic treatments
   Chemical peels can speed up pigment shedding. Fractional and non-ablative lasers, IPL or BBL can also be effective. Microneedling and radiofrequency microneedling can be helpful adjuncts to your skincare.
4. See an expert
   Darker skin (Fitzpatrick III–VI) can have a higher risk of post-procedure hyperpigmentation with some treatments, such as chemical peels, lasers and IPL. So be cautious and seek out the right
   experts experienced in treating darker phototypes.

With expertise from

With expertise from

Dr Maryam Zamani

Dr Maryam Zamani is a world-renowned Oculoplastic Surgeon and Facial Aesthetics Doctor, with extensive experience treating a multitude of skin concerns from her London clinic.