Why is my makeup pilling? Here are the 7 potential culprits

We've all been there - applying your base and seeing those tell-tale little balls forming, wondering 'why is my makeup pilling?' What products are causing this, and how can you prevent it from happening? We're here to help.

Even your best foundation can, out of the blue, start to misbehave and pill, and it can be so frustrating. We asked an industry expert to help us master the best skincare combinations to ensure your makeup looks perfect all day long.

It turns out many of us are making the same mistakes when applying our skincare and makeup, and thanks to expert advice, we have the industry secrets to prevent makeup pilling.

What is makeup pilling?

Before we answer the all-important question of why is my makeup pilling, understanding what plling it can help shed some light on the frustrating phenomenon.

"Imagine your skin as a canvas. When you apply products, they form a layer. Pilling occurs when these layers don't adhere smoothly to each other or to your skin," explains Xiao Chen-Coker, Education Manager at Morphe makeup.

"Pilling happens when the ingredients in your products are clumping together," says Chen-Coker. "These ingredients are designed to create a film on your skin, and if this is disturbed before it's set, or if another product with a different base is applied on top, these films can break down and roll into tiny little balls (pilling). It's essentially the products rejecting each other or your skin because they can't form a cohesive layer."

Why is my makeup pilling? 7 common culprits, explained

1. Your products aren't compatible

"Not all formulas play nicely together," warns Chen-Coker. "If you're mixing water-based products with oil-based ones, or silicone-based with water-based, you're practically inviting pilling. Check the ingredient lists, and if your serum is water-based, try to stick to water-based primers and foundations. If your primer is silicone-based, opt for a silicone-based foundation."

Look for ingredients ending in "-cone," "-siloxane," or "-methicone" for silicones. Water is usually the first ingredient in water-based products. "The next time you do your makeup, introduce one product at a time and wait a few minutes after each," suggests Chen-Coker. If you apply a product and then you notice pilling when you rub your finger over your skin, you've found your culprit!"

2. You're applying too many layers of skincare

"While a multi-step skincare routine is great, consider simplifying," recommends Chen-Coker. "If you're prone to pilling, skip a heavy serum or an extra layer of moisturiser before makeup. Focus on hydration and sun protection, and save the more complex routines for night."

3. You aren't exfoliating enough

Another explanation for the question of why is my makeup pilling, is that you have dead skin on the surface of your face.

"Sometimes, pilling isn't just about the products; it's about your skin's surface," suggests Chen-Coker. "Dead skin cells can create an uneven texture that makes it harder for products to adhere smoothly." Try gently exfoliating 2-3 times a week with your best facial exfoliator, as this will help create a smooth canvas for your makeup to cling to smoothly.

4. You're not letting products sink in

"Impatience is the enemy of a smooth makeup application," Chen-Coker warns. "If your serums, moisturisers, and SPF haven't fully absorbed, they're still sitting on the surface of your skin. When you then apply your primer or foundation, you're essentially just pushing those wet, unabsorbed products around, causing them to clump and pill."

So, after applying each skincare step, give it a good 2-5 minutes to fully absorb before moving on to the next. You can also try fully massaging each product in rather than leaving it sitting on the surface of your skin.

5. Incorrect application

"Your makeup application technique plays a huge part in whether your makeup pills or not," says Chen-Coker. She continues, "If you're vigorously rubbing your products into your skin, you're essentially creating friction that can cause them to ball up."

Instead, try patting, dabbing, or gently pressing your products into your skin with your best foundation brush.

6. It's your sunscreen

"Many SPFs, especially mineral sunscreen (using zinc oxide, titanium dioxide), can be quite thick or have a silicone-heavy base that doesn't play well with your other skincare or makeup," suggests Chen-Coker. "It’s all about finding the best facial sunscreen that works with your other products and giving it ample time to sink in."

7. Some ingredients won't absorb

Ingredients like Vitamin C are a common pilling culprit, and other potent skincare might not sit well under your makeup.

Founder of Ultrasun and beauty expert, Abi Cleeve, suggests that, "The molecular size of the ingredients and the way they’re formulated can make products harder for the skin to absorb." She explains, "They can sit just below the surface of the skin, although appearing to absorb at the time. Then, by adding make-up on top, the pigment and load can interrupt the formula and cause pilling."

How to prevent makeup pilling in the future

Based on the advice above, it's clear that ensuring your formulas have the same formulation bases, and allowing enough time for your skincare to sink in is key to prevent makeup pilling.