When should you use a hair mask instead of conditioner on dry, coarse, or damaged hair?

If you're staring at your shower caddy and wondering which to apply between hair mask vs conditioner, then stick around to hear the expert ruling.

The best hair masks and conditioners seem, on the surface, to have very similar benefits, but after speaking to the experts, it's clear to see that both have a particular time and place in your routine. You might be thinking that your best conditioner for curly hair or best conditioner for fine hair is doing the same job as your hair mask, but it's not strictly true.

You might also be wondering how often you should use a hair mask vs a conditioner. This might feel particularly pertinent if your hair's condition or texture has changed due to hormonal changes or damage over time. Well, worry not - we've spoken to three experts to get the scoop on when to, well, scoop some hair mask onto your thirsty strands.

Hair mask vs conditioner: what are the differences?

According to Living Proof, stylist and ambassador, Hollie Clarke, "If we compare it to skincare, a conditioner is like a moisturiser. It works on a surface level, closing the cuticle post-shampoo to leave the hair stronger, top up hydration levels, and smooth and detangle."

In that case, hair masks are similar to our best face masks or face serums, containing more potent ingredients, providing hair with a bigger, deeper dose of what it needs. Viviscal Ambassador and trichologist, Hannah Gaboardi, agrees that hair masks, "go beyond the surface, deeply penetrating the fibre and helping repair damage." She continues, "Their thick consistency contains a higher concentration of protein and conditioning properties, which moisturise and repair further than a conditioner."

Gaboardi tells us that "A conditioner has a more lightweight texture, which helps with detangling the hair, smooths the cuticle and reduces frizz and breakage. They can be used on every wash and do not weigh the hair down."

Essentially, you need both in your routine and should alternate between them for optimum hair health. If you need a guideline to follow, use your conditioner most frequently, alternating a mask every three or four hair washes.

What are the benefits of hair masks vs conditioners?

While both hair masks and conditioners have very similar benefits, one product goes further than the other to boost hair health.

Gabaordi explains that "hair masks deeply hydrate, improve elasticity and reduce frizzy hair. They smooth the cuticle, and consequently the hair shaft becomes shinier, smoother and reduces breakage." Depending on which type of mask you use, they can strengthen, repair damage and provide much-needed structural support.

In comparison, Gaboardi reveals that conditioners also "smooth the hair cuticle, detangle the hair and help overall management. They bring back shine to the hair shaft by locking in hydration and reducing breakage, which happens when detangling." It's clear that while they have the same benefits, hair masks have supercharged results, and conditioners are great for regular management of hair health.

How to use each product, according to experts

Here, Gaboardi breaks down exactly how to use each.

As a general rule, it's best to leave your conditioner on for less than five minutes, with two to three minutes being the most beneficial time to see results. Gaboardi says that, "A conditioner's properties are only effective for a short amount of time - keeping a conditioner on for longer doesn’t increase its benefits." A conditioner can be used each time you wash your hair, following your shampoo of choice.

Hair masks can be left on hair for anything from five to 15 minutes for the best benefits. "This gives enough time for the masks' beneficial properties to bind to the damaged areas. After 15 minutes, masks no longer have any effect as the hair structure can only retain a limited amount of product," explains Gaboardi.

Do you need to use a hair mask and conditioner at the same time?

On the day or days you decide you use a hair mask to save your strands, you can swap using a conditioner and go straight from your shampoo to hair mask. There's no need to use both products, and in doing so, you would only weigh down your hair, leaving you with greasy hair and likely reaching for your best dry shampoo.

Our verdict

It's clear to see that hair masks and conditioners have quite different benefits. Conditioners are ideal for use a couple of times a week, or each time you wash your hair. They're quick, easy and effective at temporarily hydrating, smoothing and detangling your strands to keep them looking their best day to day.

Hair masks are a step up. They come in and rescue the most damaged, dry and distressed tresses. Helping rebuild and restore your hair from the cuticle, meaning the results look better and last for longer.