These 7 skincare habits could be drying out your face - here’s how to avoid them

When it comes to dry skin, there are a whole host of factors that could be making matters worse (and no, I’m not talking about the obvious, e.g. not drinking enough water.)

I’m talking about some lesser-known habits that may have inched their way into our everyday skincare routines, and are now quietly wreaking havoc across parched complexions.

These small mistakes can undo all the hard work we put into protecting our skin from dryness, but luckily, they’re easy to fix. I sat down with aesthetic doctor, Dr. Christine Hall, to find out everything you need to know…

7 skincare habits that could be drying out your skin

1. Your cleanser and skin type are clashing

Chances are, you probably haven’t paid much attention to your cleanser in the past, after all, it’s only on your skin for a minute or so before making its way down the drain. But trust me, the detrimental effects of not using the best cleanser for your skin are not to be underestimated.

“Those with dry skin will find foaming cleansers not only remove oil and grime from products and pollution, but also some of the natural oils present in the skin”, explains Dr Hall. “While this is fine for those with oily and acne-prone skin, those with drier skin types will probably find that their face feels tight and can almost look shiny as the cleanser is too drying.”

Instead, you want to opt for a gentle, non-foaming, cream-based cleanser, says Dr Hall.

2. Out-growing your skincare routine

I hate to say it, but that face serum you’ve been loyal to for the past decade may not be working for you anymore. Our skin changes dramatically as we age, and the products that worked brilliantly in our 30s and 40s may no longer be the best options in our 50s and 60s.

“As we age, our sebaceous glands get smaller and produce less sebum (aka, the ceramide-packed component that keeps our skin barrier healthy and intact). Think of your skin barrier as being like bricks and mortar – skin cells are the bricks and the mortar is made up from fats, including ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids,” explains Dr Hall.

“Your skin barrier is there to keep harmful things like pollution and bacteria, or pathogens, out whilst preventing water loss.” So, as we age, not only do we lose moisture more easily, we also produce less hydrating sebum; both of these factors result in dryness, says Dr Hall. Because of this, it’s crucial to place a greater focus on hydrating and nourishing products.

3. The wrong weight of moisturiser

Sure, that cooling face gel may say ‘hydrating’ all over the tub, but for stubbornly dry skin types, it’s just not enough. “In general, richer, thicker creams will give better results than oil-free, gel-based moisturisers” says Dr Hall. “Ingredients to look out for in moisturisers designed for very dry skin, are lipids and ceramides to replenish and repair the skin barrier.”

Luckily, we’re spoilt for choice when it comes to rich moisturisers:

4. Overly-aggressive exfoliators

We’ve all heard about AHAs and BHAs, the clever skincare acids that are so often loaded into skin-smoothing exfoliating toners or brightening serums.

When well tolerated, these acids can leave skin incredibly glowy. But for many of us with sensitive skin, they may be too harsh and cause the skin barrier to become disrupted, irritated and sensitised – all of which leads to increased dryness. “On the outside, this will present as redness, breakouts and inflammation, plus your skin may feel sore and sting when products are applied” explains Dr Hall.

A gentler alternative, PHAs, are an excellent option if your dry skin is prone to sensitivity. “PHAs have a larger molecular size, so they do not penetrate the skin as deeply as other acids (such as AHAs and BHAs). This makes them suitable for those with sensitive skin and even those with skin conditions such as eczema and rosacea. In addition to their exfoliation benefits, PHAs also have antioxidant and hydrating properties,” says Dr Hall.

5. Only using hyaluronic acid to hydrate

“While hyaluronic is perhaps one of the best known hydrating ingredients, famed for its ability to absorb over 1000 times its weight in water, there’s a newer, less well-known ingredient called beta glucan, which is 20% more hydrating than hyaluronic acid” says Dr Hall.

“In addition to hydration, beta glucan is also an antioxidant, an anti-inflammatory and has a big restorative and repair function.” All of which make it the ideal ingredient to slather onto dry skin.

6. Breaking the retinol rules

There are a handful of golden rules when it comes to avoiding retinol mistakes; follow them, and you can save yourself weeks of excess dryness and irritation.

“Most people will undergo a period of dryness, redness, and possibly soreness when they try to incorporate a retinol into their skincare routine”, says Dr Hall. “The key is to start with a low strength, apply only onto very dry skin (wash your face and wait 20 minutes before you apply the retinol), avoid sensitive areas near the eyes, mouth and nose, and only use it once a week to start with.”

She continues, “You can gradually increase retinol use to twice a week, and then three times a week and so on, until you are tolerating it on alternate if not every day. Once you have mastered that, you move up to the next strength.” Of course, this does require a little time and patience, but the results will be worth it.

If the dryness and irritations persist, it’s worth giving ‘the sandwich technique’ a try. This is where you buffer the retinol by first applying a thin layer of hydrating serum or moisturiser to the skin, then applying the retinol over this, and finally, finishing with another application of hydrating product.

7. Forgetting about face oils

“Face oils are useful for those with extra dry skin when they are applied as the final step in your skincare routine," explains Dr Hall. "They lock in the hydrating benefits of products underneath, as the oil creates a ‘cling film’ like barrier over your skincare, preventing it from evaporating”.

That said, because face oils create a barrier on the skin, it’s absolutely crucial to apply them as the very last step in your skincare routine, as any products layered on top will not be able to penetrate the oil.

There are lots of excellent oils out there, ranging from budget-friendly to ultra-luxe.