Weighing up a lash lift and tint vs extensions? It’s a common dilemma for anyone who wishes their lashes could look longer.
Both a lash lift and tint, and lash extensions, have the same goal – to make your natural lashes look longer, fuller, fluttery, and just generally more visible. If your lashes are very short or very straight, this kind of treatment will make a big difference and let you fake it ‘til the results of your best eyelash growth serum have started to show. The aim of the game is for lashes that look so good without makeup that they’ll leave your best mascara gathering dust at the bottom of your drawer.
Lash lift and tint vs extensions: The lowdown
What are lash lifts and lash extensions?
Let’s start with the basics of what each treatment entails – what is a lash lift exactly? A lash lift is a process of fixing your natural lashes into a curved shape which makes them more prominent above the lash line so they appear longer. To achieve this, a lash technician will apply two solutions to the lashes – one to break down the bonds within the individual lashes, and a second to set them in their new shape. Most lash lifts are combined with a lash tint, where dye is applied to the top (and sometimes bottom) lashes to make them look fuller and longer. The tips of your lashes tend to be lighter than the part nearest to the root, so it can make a really big difference.
Lash extensions are when fibres (normally made from synthetic fabrics, silk strands, or mink) are attached to your natural lashline or lashes to make them look longer. There are a few different techniques for lash extensions. Classic lashes are when one individual false lash is applied to one natural lash. The effect is quite natural and subtle. Russian layering or Russian lashes is “a technique where people apply up to sixteen eyelashes on each eyelash,” explains Edyta Kurowsk, eyelash artist and founder of Edy London. Then there are LED lashes, “where lashes are cured with an LED light,” adds Kurowsk. This is to help the lash glue to cure and harden so that the lash extensions last for longer. How many lashes are applied at once with LED lashes will depend on the technician and the look you’re hoping for.
Both are a lash lift and tint and lash extensions are semi-permanent treatments so will need to be repeated relatively regularly.
Edyta, better known as Edy London, is an experienced eyelash artist with a host of celebrity clients including Trinny Woodall, Ellie Goulding and Lisa Snowdon.
What are the benefits of both?
Much like deciding whether that handbag is really worth the money, or if your ex really does deserve a second chance, we think the best way to decide between a lash lift and tint and lash extensions is with a classic pros and cons list.
Benefits of a lash lift and tint:
- A natural look. “The pros of a lash lift and tint is that it looks really natural,” says Kurowsk. The process is enhancing your natural lashes as opposed to adding anything else, so it’s the best choice for a could-be-real finish to accompany a natural makeup look.
- You don’t need to wear mascara. As a lash lift and tint will make your lashes look longer and fuller there’s no need to rely on a lengthening mascara.
- Wider-looking eyes. Curled, fanned-out lashes will make your eyes look bigger and more awake compared to short, straight lashes.
- The treatment time is under an hour. “A lash lift and tint is a fast treatment,” says Kintija Belska, Lash Expert at Elleebana Europe. “It typically takes around 40 minutes.”
- Results last for up to eight weeks. “A lash lift will lash until the natural lash falls out at the end of its lash cycle,” explains Belska. The length of your lash growth cycle can vary, so results could last for more or less time. If you are working on ways to make your hair grow faster (like supplements and diet swaps) then you may find your lashes grow quicker too as a knock-on effect.
- Lashes are more ordered. Before your technician applies the treatment solutions they will arrange and fix your lashes onto a silicone mold or rods. This allows them to control the spacing of the lashes and, according to Belska, “makes the natural lash arrangement more perfect and even.”
- Low maintenance. “Besides taking care within the first 24 hours not to get them wet, there are very few limitations,” says Belska. Brushing them upwards each morning and avoiding sleeping on your front or sides will help though.
- Waterproof and smudge-proof. After the treatment has had a chance to set, the tint and solution won’t be impacted by water, so you don’t need to worry about panda eyes.
- You can still touch your eyes. “You can still rub your eyes post-lash lift and tint although you might find a change in texture,” advises Belska.
- No need for removal. A lash lift will simply grow out as your lashes grow through their natural growth and shedding cycle.
Belska is a lash expert who works with brands such as Ellebana.
Benefits of lash extensions:
- Choice of finishes. There are a number of different lash extension techniques available depending on how long, or how full, you want to go. “The huge selection of lash types and looks allows you to create a bespoke look,” Belska advises.
- You don’t need to have natural lashes. Lash extensions can be carried out no matter what your natural lashes are like. “Even clients with short and sparse lashes can achieve dramatic results,” says Belska.
- Longer, fuller lashes. There are no limits to how long and full you go, it’s just about what your natural lashes can hold and handle. Just be aware that adding too much weight can damage your natural lashes.
- Results last for up to 4 weeks. Around this point, some of your natural lashes will be in the shedding phase and you’ll start to notice gaps.
- Can be maintained. If your lash extensions are starting to grow out, you can get them in-filled, where the technician will replace any missing lashes. This is a faster and cheaper process than getting a whole new set.
- No need for mascara. Or any eye makeup, really. Lash extensions often negate the need for your best eyeliner too as they create extra definition on the lash line.
- Smudge and water-proof. After the initial 48 hours when your lashes need to be left alone to set, you can get them wet without worrying about dislodging them. As there’s no tint involved in the process, they definitely won’t smudge.
- Great for special occasions. If you’ve got a wedding, a big celebration, or a holiday coming up then lash extensions will ensure your lashes look at their best, without the need for eye makeup.
What are the downsides of a lash lift and tint vs extensions?
Now for the other side of the coin. These are the potential downsides of a lash lift and tint vs extensions.
Downsides of a lash lift and tint:
- Not possible if you don’t have natural lashes. “A lash lift can only be performed if the client has natural lashes,” says Nouveau Lashes International Trainer Debbie Law.
- Results can vary. “Results depend on the length and quality of the natural lashes,” advises Belska. People with naturally longer and thicker lashes will get a more impactful finish than someone with shorter, sparser lashes.
- Reactions do happen. “A certified, experienced lash technician will cut down the risk and chances, but you could still have a bad reaction,” explains lash guru Daxita Vaghela. “You’re more likely to experience side effects such as a rash, redness, dry eyes, watery eyes, inflammation, or brittle lashes if you struggle with allergies, skin sensitivity, or have a history of eye infections or styes.” It’s really important to do a patch test at least 48 hours before your appointment to reduce the risk.
- The re-growth can look strange. “The fully developed lashes will stay beautifully lifted, but the new lashes will keep growing straight so just the ends are curled up,” explains Kurowsk. “So eventually, it creates a little bit of a mess. Very often when clients have their lashes lifted somewhere else they will come to me to ask for extensions put on top because they can’t manage them anymore.”
- There isn’t a way to speed up regrowth. “There is no easy way out,” says Kurowsk. “You need to wait until they grow out completely and fall out through the shedding process for them to look like your natural lashes again.”
- It can’t be immediately re-done or reversed. Don’t like the finish of your lash lift? “If someone isn’t happy with the look of lash extensions then they can be removed on the same day,” advises Kurowsk. “Whereas with a lift you need to wait for at least two weeks to process them again.” Be wary of salons that offer to re-process sooner, as this can damage your natural lashes.
- It doesn’t always work. “On rare occasions, a lift may not take in one session or can drop within days,” says Belska. “This can be the case with new clients as the artist learns about their lashes, and may require another session. However, this is an infrequent occurrence.”
Law is the leading Educator at Nouveau Lashes. Anyone who has been lucky to experience a lash treatment with her will know that her skills are unparalleled.
A lash artist with more than 20 years of experience in eyelashes, Daxita also specialises in microblading and semi-permanent makeup.
Downsides of lash extensions:
- The treatment takes longer than a lash lift. “With me, it takes an hour for any set of eyelashes but some lash technicians and techniques can take up to two hours for the full set,” advises Vaghela. Keep this in mind when booking appointments.
- They don’t last as long. Compared to a lash lift and tint which lasts for about eight weeks, you’ll only get four to five weeks from extensions. They require more maintenance with infill appointments to maintain the look.
- You can’t wear mascara. Can you put mascara on lash extensions? Ideally not. “You can’t wear mascara with false lashes,” warns Vaghala. “If you do it takes so long to remove and you will need oil-free eye makeup remover.” On the flip side, you probably won’t want or need to, as your lashes will look great without it.
- Risk of infection and reaction. Just like with lash lists, Vaghala says there is still some risk of an adverse reaction. “There is the possibility of developing eye infections or discomforts like swelling, redness, styes, or itching sensations within a few hours or days of getting your new lashes.” We know it can be frustrating, but try not to rub or itch your eyes, as this can cause the extensions to fall out.
- Build-up can occur. Just as our skin accumulates things like makeup and daily grime throughout the day, the same particles can become caught on your lash extensions. There are worries about lice on eyelash extensions too. “Makeup can build up in-between the lashes and normally requires a specialised cleaner and brush to keep clean,” advises Belska.
- You’ll need to avoid oil-based products. Bad news for fans of balm cleansers. “Oil-based products should be categorically avoided around the eye area and on the lashes,” explains Belska. This is because the oil can break down the glue.
FAQ
Is a lash lift less damaging than lash extensions?
While some lash technicians are divided over which treatment is better for your lashes when it comes to a lash lift and tint vs lash extensions, all agree that both can cause damage if carried out by an inexperienced technician.
“One is not better or worse than the other, it just comes down to the quality of the products being used and the person doing the treatment having been trained to a high standard,” says Law. “The person who taught the lash artist should have explained to them how to give a correct consultation, access the lash health, and how to use the products correctly.”
Edyta Kurowsk does not carry out lash lifts in her salon and only uses the classic technique for lash extensions to avoid damaging her client’s natural lashes. “Eyelash extensions can be really good but if they’re gone badly, such as with Russian layering or LED light techniques, then they can be damaging. Your eyelashes can not handle the number of lashes applied with Russian layering, and this will damage the lash. LED lashes are cured with LED light, and I don’t think there is enough evidence on this technique, which is why I don’t practice it. The skin around the eye area is very delicate and nobody has disclosed the UV wavelength. For me, it’s the same as Shellac, so the UV wavelength will probably be the same at that. This is damaging and carries a potential skin cancer risk as well as other problems.”
“Lash lifts can over-process and slightly burn the natural lashes if the technician isn’t experienced,” continues Kurowsk. “It won’t pull them out, and they won’t stay like that forever as the follicle isn’t affected, but you will have to wait for the natural shedding and growth process. You might end up lash-less for a bit, maybe up to two months.” If you end up in this situation, there are tricks to how to grow eyelashes, including serums and supplements.
Making sure you find a lash technician that you trust is key. Remember, if the deal sounds too good to be true, it probably is. Asking for recommendations from friends and family is always a good place to start when finding a new salon or artist.
Which is more expensive – lash lift or lash extensions?
If your decision between a lash lift and tint vs extensions is coming down to cost, then a lash lift is the cheaper option. Lash extensions are more expensive due to the time they take, as well as the level of artistry involved.
“In my experience, good extensions are expensive,” explains Kurowsk. “But the results are much better. When you’re working with a lash lift and your natural lashes you can only achieve whatever is doable with your own length, whereas with extensions you can add volume and length. When you lift lashes, you lift all of them together, but with lash extensions, you have a choice of how you treat each individual lash. With the baby lashes, you can either leave them alone and let them develop, or you can put very small lashes onto them. This is more for volume than for length. I put the longest false lashes onto fully developed lashes and normally use brown or very light black extensions to make them look as natural as possible.”
Keep in mind that lash extensions will need regular infills (around every three to four weeks) to keep them at their fluttery best, which will also impact the ongoing cost.
Ultimately, whether you choose a lash lift or lash extensions will be down to personal preference. The finished look is quite different, and they can vary in price too. There's no need to be loyal to one though, and you can quite easily flit between the two.
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