5 skincare products that are a waste of money, according to a dermatologist

Building a skincare routine - and knowing which products to opt for - is no easy feat. From the best face masks to the best eye creams and cleansing balms, there are so many products around that we've made sure to pack into our routines. But according to world-renowned dermatologist Dr. Shereene Idriss, a lot of that spend could be going straight down the drain.

In a recent episode of The Mel Robbins Podcast, Dr. Idriss - a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist, founder of Dr Idriss skincare and one of the most trusted voices in skincare - cut through the noise to share the products she recommends skipping altogether. Her rule of thumb? If a product promises instant results, breaks down your skin barrier, or irritates and inflames your skin, it's a red flag. "Anything that is irritating or inflaming your skin," she explained, "it's not going to be for the best of your long-term benefit."

So before you add anything else to your basket, here are the five products Dr. Idriss says you're probably wasting your money on...

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The 5 skincare products you shouldn't spend your money on, according to a dermatologist

1. Sheet masks with active ingredients

Whether it's the best retinol creams or vitamin C serums, we all need actives in our routines. But in sheet mask form? Maybe not. Sheet masks aren't all bad, Dr. Idriss makes that clear. A simple, hydrating sheet mask for a bit of a glow-boost every now and then is fine. The problem comes when the format and the ingredient don't match. If you're reaching for a sheet mask packed with actives like retinol, that's where she pumps the brakes hard.

"When you find a sheet mask with an active, like a retinol, this is a red flag," she says, "because the format of the product doesn't match the ingredient." Applying a potent active under occlusion - essentially sealing it against your skin - can cause unnecessary irritation, especially in sensitive areas. Her advice: save sheet masks for what they do best, which is a cooling and/or hydrating treat, and leave the serious actives to your serums and creams where you can actually control the application.

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2. Makeup wipes

This one might sting a little, but Dr. Idriss isn't a fan of daily makeup wipes. The operative word is daily - she acknowledges they have a time and a place (think: the emergency pack by your bed for those nights when washing your face feels like climbing Everest), but as a regular part of your routine, they're not doing you any favours.

The issue is the physical dragging motion. Dr. Idriss described it as trying to clean an orange covered in foundation by rubbing a wipe across its surface - you're just pushing the product around, not actually removing it from the pores. Regular use can also disrupt the skin barrier, leading to irritation and sensitivity over time. Her suggestion is to keep a pack for SOS moments only, and use a proper cleanser the rest of the time.

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3. Physical face scrubs

If you've been vigorously buffing your skin with a gritty face scrub in the name of exfoliation, Dr. Idriss would like a word. Physical scrubs - particularly anything with rough, irregular particles - can create micro-tears in the skin, cause inflammation, and compromise the skin barrier with repeated use. She noted that she has seen patients use them on their faces with the intention of getting rid of dead skin cells, but the reality is that the abrasion can do more damage than good.

The good news is that you don't have to give up exfoliation entirely. Dr. Idriss recommends chemical exfoliants - think AHAs and BHAs - as a far gentler, more effective alternative that works with your skin rather than against it.

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4. Collagen-labelled creams

The word "collagen" on a moisturiser can be a very appealing selling point. Who wouldn't want to slap on a cream and replenish their skin's collagen? Here's the science reality check though: topical collagen molecules are simply too large to penetrate the skin and rebuild anything from the inside.

Dr. Idriss held up an example during the podcast - a well-known collagen gel moisturiser - and was clear that while it was a perfectly lovely hydrating product, the "collagen" label was misleading. "The word 'collagen' on this moisturiser makes people think that it's going to help them replenish their collagen," she said. "But it's a hydrating moisturiser. It's not going to replenish your collagen." The takeaway: a good moisturiser is absolutely worth having - just don't pay a premium for the collagen promise on the label. That's marketing, not science.

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5. Products promising instant results

Dr. Idriss's broader red flag - and arguably the most useful filter you can apply next time you're scrolling through your favourite beauty shopping website - is anything that promises you a transformation overnight. From miracle serums to "glow in 24 hours" tonics, the skincare industry is full of products leaning hard on the instant gratification angle.

Her take is refreshingly straightforward: real, lasting improvement to your skin happens over time, through consistency and a simple, well-chosen routine. A gentle cleanser, a good face moisturiser, and one of the best facial sunscreens every single day will always outperform a shelf full of quick-fix products. When a brand is shouting about instant results, Dr. Idriss says, that should be your cue to slow down and question what you're actually buying.

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