You've discovered an old SPF and are now asking yourself 'does sunscreen expire or not?' We've all been there, especially when the sun appears after a long, wintry absence. Most of us know it's important to wear sun protection during the warmer months, but it's not always simple to stay across the best practise of actually using the stuff. We're here to help.
We've got answers to all of your top SPF questions, from the difference between chemical and mineral sun cream to how much you should apply and whether—when it comes to protecting the skin—even the best foundation with SPF can come close to sunscreen.
The trick with sun protection is to treat it like any other part of your skincare routine. This means doing your research, in the same way you would to find the best eye cream, then using it consistently as part of your daily routine—much like your skincare acids or retinol cream.
With so many SPF products on the market and a whole dictionary of sun-cream terminology being thrown at us, it can be difficult to figure out what we really need for our skin. So, as well as answering your questions, we have broken down sunscreen lingo and picked out the best sun-protection products for you to try. Here's hoping for a year full of sun, outdoor activities and happy healthy skin!
Does sunscreen expire? Your SPF questions answered
1. Does sunscreen expire?
For anyone who has dug out a bottle from last summer or the one before that, and is hoping to use it, we have bad news: yes, sunscreen absolutely has a use-by date. The average shelf life of sun cream is 6 to twelve months after opening, so sadly last summer's bottle is unlikely to be protecting you as well as it should.
It's also worth knowing that leaving your bottles in direct sunlight or high temperatures causes the potency of your SPF to dissolve even faster, too.
2. What does SPF stand for?
- SPF: Stands for Sun Protection Factor. The number signals how often you need to reapply to avoid burning from UVB rays; if it takes 20 minutes for your unprotected skin to redden in the midday sun, it will take thirty times as long for that to occur if you apply SPF30.
- UVA: Think A for ageing. These pesky rays are present all year round, travelling through cloud and glass to penetrate deep into skin.
- UVB: Think B for burning. UVB rays vary in intensity depending on the weather; you’re most at risk in the UK during spring and summer, when the sun is highest in the sky.
- Broad spectrum: Refers to sun lotions that shield skin from both UVA and UVB rays.
3. Do I need SPF in the UK?
Anyone who has been caught out by an unexpectedly sunny day on these shores can confirm this: you absolutely do need to use sunscreen in the UK. "While we may be more likely to get sunburnt in hotter climates, the risks from UVA damage in the UK is present all year round," explains skin health specialist Dr Anita Sturnham.
4. Is makeup with SPF as good as sunscreen?
Your foundation might promise an SPF, however, "by the very nature of their intended use, they’re applied a in far smaller quantities, and therefore are often not providing the same level of protection as ‘pure’ sunscreens," explains skincare expert and Ultrasun UK MD, Abi Cleeve.
5. How to apply sunscreen
Heading out in the sunshine? It's important to be organised: apply your sun cream ahead of time—not just as you are heading out the door or sitting down in the park—to avoid burning.
"Do it first thing, do it indoors and apply plenty," says Abi Cleeve. "Any application in direct sunlight increases evaporation and up to 60% of protection can be lost."
6. Should I use acids in summer?
Yes, as long as you're careful this shouldn't be a problem. Ingredients that chemically exfoliate (AHAs and BHAs), or speed up cell turnover, such as retinol, can make skin more sensitive to sun damage. Apply SPF every day and limit these punchier ingredients to nighttime use only.
7. Does SPF block Vitamin D?
According to a 2019 study by the British Journal of Dermatology, "using daily broad‐spectrum sunscreens with high UVA protection will not compromise vitamin D status in healthy people."
In short, the dangers of sun exposure far outweigh its benefits, so slather on that sunscreen.
8. Chemical vs mineral SPF—what's the difference?
As the name suggests, once they've sunk into your skin, chemical sunscreens use chemicals to absorb UV rays that enter in order to prevent damage at a cellular level. Mineral (or physical) lotions sit on top of skin, reflecting away the suns rays.
Which one you use really comes down to personal preference. Chemical formulations tend to have a lighter more elegant texture, which makes them a popular choice for daily use. However, if your skin is sensitive, physical SPF may be the best option as chemicals can be irritating. If you've ever experienced weepy or stinging eyes after applying sunscreen, try switching to mineral.
9. Does menopause cause pigmentation?
As we hit the menopause, our melanin cells can produce pigment too quickly, leading to a rise in so-called ‘age’ or ‘sun’ spots.
Vitamin C will help fade existing marks, while daily use of strong SPFs will stop new ones from forming.
10. Is after-sun better than body lotion?
The answer to this depends on the body lotion in question. Essentially both types of product are designed to hydrate the skin, but good after-sun lotions are specifically formulated with cooling, anti-inflammatory ingredients—as well as water-binding ones—to deeply quench parched skin. "The biggest benefit from after-sun is its high water content, which cools and hydrates," says Candice Gardner, Education Manager at Dermalogica.
11. Does sunburn turn into tan?
Trauma tanners, listen up! "A tan that occurs too fast from inadequate protection only causes the skin to burn and shed, leaving you tanless in days," says Abi Cleeve. To deepen those tan lines safely, try a sunscreen with a specialist formula that speeds up the process.
Best SPF sunscreen products
Murad City Skin Age Defense Broad Spectrum SPF50
A brilliant all-rounder of a product, this contains mineral sunscreen plus Vitamin C, blue light and pollution protection. The light-reflecting subtly rose-toned finish is also very flattering on all skin tones.
Decleor Sun Gel Cream SPF50+
If you hate heavy or sticky sun creams you’ll love this barely-there gel-like formula, which feels cool and refreshing—perhaps due to the aloe vera that features in the ingredients.
Ultrasun Family High Protection SPF30
Ultra-reliable protection from the cult brand that every Beauty Editor takes on holiday. Unusually, this clever product will last for two years without going off.
Medik8 Advanced Day Total Protect SPF30
This sunscreen not only boasts SPF30 and 5* UVA protection, but also sits nicely under make-up with a soft, powdery finish.
Garnier Ambre Solaire UV Water Refreshing Protecting Mist SPF30
With its clever spray nozzle this will reach tricky areas, such as your back and shoulders.
Clarins Invisible Sun Care Stick SPF50
Don’t forget often-missed spots, such as the back of your neck, ears, temples and hands, with this pocket-sized product that's ideal for on-the-go sunscreen touch-ups.
Oskia SPF 30 Vitamin Face Cream
An all-in-one morning solution for the face, teaming hardworking skincare with broad-spectrum protection.
Dermalogica Invisible Physical Defense SPF30
This lovely and lightweight mineral option is good for sensitive skin types, and blends seamlessly into all skin tones.
Bioderma Pigmentbio Daily Care SPF50+
A strong daily SPF option to help fade dark spots and work towards preventing new ones.
Caudalie Tan Prolonging After-Sun Lotion
Formulated with grape water and aloe vera, this will reduce redness and soothe sun-sore skin while also working to prolong your tan.
Green People Edelweiss Tan Accelerator Sun Cream SPF15
Deepen tan lines safely with this clever formula that speeds up the process. It works by stimulating the production of melanin, the pigment that gives skin its colour, rewarding you with a deeper tan, and limited damage.
Dr Russo Once A Day Sun Protection Invisible Face Gel SPF50
One of the key elements of a great SPF is finding a formula you love to apply. Thanks to the paintbrush-style design, this is a treat to use. The formula itself is lightweight with no white cast.
Jess Beech is an experienced fashion and beauty editor, with more than eight years experience in the publishing industry. She has written for woman&home, GoodtoKnow, Now, Woman, Woman’s Weekly, Woman’s Own and Chat, and is currently Deputy Fashion & Beauty Editor at Future PLC.
She caught the magazine bug during a stint as Fashion Editor of her university newspaper alongside her English degree, and hasn’t looked back since. As for the fashion bug, that came as part and parcel of growing up in the 90s, but the less said about that the better!
Jess’ average day in the office is spent researching the latest fashion trends, chatting to industry tastemakers and scouring the internet to bring you this season’s must-buy pieces - as well as advice on how to wear them. Weekends are equally fashion-focused, and Jess has been known to visit no less than five Zara stores in a single day in search of the perfect occasion dress.
The only thing that comes close to a buzz of finally tracking down that much-coveted dress is the joy of discovering a new beauty wonder product or hero ingredient. A beauty obsessive, Jess has tried everything from cryotherapy to chemical peels (minus the Samantha in Sex and The City-worthy redness) and interviewed experts including Jo Malone and Trinny Woodall.
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