This quick hack to make thin lips look fuller is so simple - and Dame Joan Collins-approved

Perhaps it's '90s nostalgia (see also: The Body Shop Dewberry scent and Chanel Rouge Noir nail polish revivals) or the versatility of new iterations, but lip liner is having a huge renaissance. Sales shot up more than 25% last year alone.

The best lip liner’s ability to create a fuller lip look hasn't just caught our attention – it's also crossed the path of model and actor Cara Delevigne via a tip-off from her iconic godmother, Dame Joan Collins.

Rather than turning to aesthetic doctors for a lip plumping effect, Delevigne deploys a simple overlining trick taught by the legendary Dame Joan - so we've asked expert makeup artists exactly how we can have a go ourselves.

What is Dame Joan Collins' overlining lip technique?

Exactly what it says it is: using lip liner to enhance the shape of your lips, either on the natural outline itself, or just beyond it. Delevigne revealed the simple hack when discussing her beauty secrets with Bustle, saying, "loads of people think I got lip filler when I just get my makeup artist to overline my lips. Joan Collins, my godmother, taught me that."

No wonder this trick has A-list buy-in, as the vermillion border of our lips naturally loses definition with age; redefining them has an added youth-boosting bonus.

For those of us without makeup artists on hand, the technique is still more than doable. Gabriella Elia, make-up artist and founder of Sweed cosmetics, advocates going out with the lines. “Focusing on areas like the Cupid’s bow or the centre of the lips, when done well, creates the illusion of fuller, more defined lips while still looking natural and balanced.”

“The idea of lining with a slightly darker pencil – rather than matching it to your lipstick, which would have been the trend five years ago – is to construct shadow, creating a natural contour," agrees renowned British makeup artist Caroline Barnes.

How does overlining make lips look bigger?

“Any kind of darkness you’re adding with make-up works to push back particular areas of the face,” notes Barnes. “This, in turn, adds depth and brings forward the skin next to it. When the lips are naturally full, a shadow is already there, and conversely, when you create a soft shadow behind your lips, it gives them a fuller look.”

It’s a universal technique that works on pretty much everyone. “Overlining can be used for most lip shapes,” adds Elia, “but it’s most effective when adapted to the individual. Rather than outlining the entire mouth, it works best when enhancing specific areas depending on your natural shape. The goal is to complement your features rather than dramatically change them.”

Prepping lips and choosing pencils

As any make-up artist will you, preparation is key for achieving the perfect result. “It’s important that lips are hydrated, but don’t use liner over lip balm as you won’t be able to get the adhesion you’d like,” warns Barnes. “They need to be supple but dry in order for the shade to stay on the lips. So applying to a soft, dry base will make all the difference.”

As for choosing the perfect pencil, texture is everything. “A creamy but precise lip liner is ideal for overlining,” recommends Elia. “You want a formula that glides on effortlessly without dragging the skin, while still having enough structure to stay in place. You want a texture that balances being smooth, blendable, and long-wearing.”

Expert tips for overlining your lips

Both of our experts agree that using a shade which mimics your natural lip tone, rather than your lipstick shade, looks fresh and modern as well as being the most flattering. “For the most natural result, choose a liner close to your own lip tone or just slightly deeper,” advises Elia. “This creates a soft, seamless base that enhances lip without looking overdone. You can then layer lipstick or gloss on top for an effortless, refined finish.”

Once lips are soft, smooth, and dry, take your sharpened pencil and start drawing with a light touch. “I start at the inner corner of the mouth and work up to the Cupid’s bow, then blend either with a cotton bud or eyeshadow brush to give softness and shadow rather than a line,” instructs Barnes. “That way the result is soft and diffused, creating that pretty, plump fullness in seconds.”