Sparse eyebrows? Here's how to make them appear fuller and more youthful, according to an expert
'It’s about adding softness, gentle structure and lift,'
It feels as though we've put our brows through every trend imaginable over the past decade. From big and blocky to overtly brushed-up, we've experimented with countless eyebrow shapes and finishes.
Yet the one timeless look is a naturally full and fluffy finish. Especially flattering for mature brows, soft definition and a little structure can help lift the face and create a more youthful appearance.
According to Samina Kousar, head trainer at Blink Brow Bar, the key to achieving flattering brows in later life lies in enhancing what's already there, rather than chasing dramatic reshaping. “Mature brows benefit most from a subtle, restorative approach rather than dramatic change. It’s about adding softness, gentle structure and lift without overpowering the face.”
An expert's guide to shaping mature brows for a lifted look
As we age, brows often become thinner and less dense. Texture can shift, too, with strands becoming coarse and more difficult to tame. The good news? With a few strategic tweaks and some clever product placement, brows of every shape and size can appear fuller and more defined again. Here’s how…
Tip #1: Consider professional brow mapping
Brows have the power to completely transform the look of your face, which is why it's so important to nail the shape. Brow mapping is a professional technique used to determine the most flattering brow shape for your individual features, taking into account where the brow should begin, arch and end.
According to Samina, it's particularly beneficial for mature brows, as "thinning brows can contribute to an aged appearance, but precise brow mapping can restore balance and lift". Rather than dramatically altering the natural shape, the focus should be on subtle refinement: cleaning up stray hairs and maintaining a softly lifted tail to enhance the eye area.
Tip #2: Try a brow tint
If your brows have started to turn grey, an eyebrow pencil alone may not be enough to create the appearance of fullness. Instead, consider a longer-lasting solution such as a brow tint. "As brows turn grey, they often lose visibility," explains Samina. "Professional tinting is an effective way to restore depth and fullness. It not only covers grey hairs but also lightly stains the skin beneath sparse areas for a fuller effect."
The trick here is choosing the right shade. Going too dark can look harsh and unnatural. "Soft, warm-toned browns or taupe shades create the most natural and flattering result," says Samina. For an at-home alternative, she recommends a tinted gel such as Blink Brow Bar's Tinted Brow Gel, which is "ideal for controlling coarse or grey hairs without adding heavy colour." And if you’re feeling brave, DIY brow tints are another option (just be sure to follow the instructions and recommended leave-on time).
Tip #3: Embrace a fluffy finish
A fluffy brow can instantly create a softer, more natural-looking effect. Rather than trimming the tops of the brows, which can square off the shape and create a harsh line, focus on enhancing the hairs you already have. This can be achieved with a strong-hold brow wax or gel, or via an in-salon treatment such as brow lamination. Samina recommends the latter, noting that "with age, brow hairs can become wiry and grow in irregular directions. Lamination smooths and restructures these hairs, allowing them to be repositioned into a fuller, more uniform shape that lasts for several weeks."
For those who prefer to style their brows at home, there are plenty of products with impressive staying power. Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Freeze and Blink Brow Bar Clear Brow Lock are both excellent options. For the most effective result, try back-brushing the gel or wax through the hairs before sweeping them upwards and outwards to create soft definition and volume. Just be careful not to overdo it, as an overly glossy finish can look less natural and too polished.
Tip #4: Consider semi-permanent treatments
While brow gels, pencils and tints can work wonders, they can only do so much if your brows have become significantly sparse. In these instances, a semi-permanent treatment such as microblading or microfeathering may be worth considering. "For brows that have significantly thinned or stopped growing, microblading can be transformative," says Samina. "Fine, hair-like strokes of pigment mimic natural hairs, restoring density and shape. This provides a long-lasting, low-maintenance solution, reducing the need for daily makeup."
