Which face exfoliator should I be using? I quizzed a skin expert who broke it down into 3 simple categories

A doctor reveals the difference between AHA, BHA and PHAs – and which should (and shouldn't) be in your routine

Image of woman with straight blonde hair wiping her face in the mirror, on a pastel watercolour background with circular photo of Dr Tego Kirnon-Jackman, pink expert advice banner and scrub swatch
(Image credit: Getty Images / Galina Zhigalova)

Although people can be wary of exfoliating their faces with acids, this skincare step actually boasts a plethora of benefits – as long as you're using the correct one.

The best facial exfoliators are a key player in your skincare routine as they have the ability to banish dead skin cells, unclog pores and encourage cell renewal. This can help reduce dullness, breakouts and allow your skincare formulas to absorb more efficiently.

Whether you opt for exfoliating Korean toner pads or acid toner, there are many ways to incorporate an exfoliant into your regimen. However, it's not always easy to know whether you're using the correct one for your skin type, in order to ensure you're making the most of the benefits – and not causing your skin any harm.

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It's important to know that not all exfoliants work in the same way and using them incorrectly may not delivered your desired results, so it's wise to be clued up on the differences between chemical exfoliants and choosing the right one for you. Thankfully, aesthetic doctor and founder of SKINMENU, Dr Tego Kirnon-Jackman, is here to easily break it down for us.

What chemical exfoliant should I be using?

If you were to browse in any beauty store, you might notice that many bottles of exfoliants are often labelled with tricky-to-understand abbreviations, but as Dr Tego explains: "There are three types you need to know about." Before you invest in an exfoliator, it's important to learn what each one means and which is best suited to your skin type.

For those who battle dullness and pigmentation, Dr Tego recommends the first of the three chemical exfoliants on the market, she notes: "AHAs, like glycolic and lactic acid, are water-soluble. They work on the surface, breaking down dead skin cells [and are] wonderful for pigmentation and dull skin. One of my top picks is the Paula's Choice Mandelic and Lactic Acid Exfoliant."

Alternatively, those with oily, combination or blemish-prone skin may be better suited to BHAs as they work on congestion, as Dr Tego suggests: "Next, we have BHAs, like salicylic acid. These are oil soluble, meaning they can get into the pore and decongest from the inside. Two favourite products here, the Medicube Zero Pore Pads and the Obagi Clenziderm Pore Therapy Toner."

Lastly, if your complexion is more on the sensitive, reactive side, you might want to turn your attention to a PHA exfoliant, Dr Tego advises: "Finally, we have PHAs, these are like the gentler cousins of your AHAs. Same exfoliating benefits, but they're much gentler, so great for sensitive skin. I adore Medik8's Press and Glow Tonic for this. Application is going to depend on the product's form, whether it's a cleanser or a leave-on toner or serum. "

How often should I be exfoliating?

As you might already know, the key to exfoliating is finding the balance that your own skin can tolerate, in order to avoid over-exfoliation. As Dr Tego advises: "The important thing is you need to find your skin's balance of enough exfoliation to see results, but without stripping the barrier. This is typically two to three times weekly, and you want to avoid using one at the same time as a retinoid."

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Image of Dr Tego Kirnon-Jackman sitting with hand under chin, wearing a white shirt, white trousers and a navy blazer
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Dr Tego Kirnon-Jackman

Dr Tego Kirnon-Jackman MBBS MS BSc is a medical and aesthetic doctor, and founder of SKINMENU. Her approach involves a focus on inclusivity, individuality and celebrating natural features by understanding skin physiology, anatomy and subtle enhancements.

Sennen Prickett
Digital Beauty Writer

Sennen is Digital Beauty Writer at woman&home, where she shares the latest beauty launches, trending buys and personal product recommendations, from makeup and hair to skincare and nails. She is also a judge for the annual woman&home Haircare, Skincare and Beauty Awards.

Previously, Sennen achieved a First Class Fashion and Beauty Journalism degree at Birmingham City University, before undertaking her role as Junior Digital Fashion and Beauty Editor at FROW Magazine. During this position, she wrote about the latest industry news, new product launches, viral trends and thoroughly reviewed a lineup of beauty products. Since leaving FROW, Sennen has gone on to create fashion, beauty and lifestyle content with numerous brands, including Who What Wear UK, HuffPost UK and Harvey Nichols.

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