Why are so many iconic beauty products being reformulated this year, and are the new versions actually better?
New and improved, or destroying our favourite formulas? Our senior beauty editor investigates
It takes a lot of time and money to create your perfect beauty routine. I’m betting that, over the course of decades, you’ve narrowed down a handful of hero products that you wouldn’t be without. But what if - horror of horrors - they suddenly changed that formula? It's been happening a lot this year.
I’m well-acquainted with the cult buys that people are evangelical about. The best night creams that transform your skin while you sleep, or the long-lasting waterproof foundations you rely on for special occasions. I hear about product launches months in advance, and this year I’ve noticed that so many beauty icons have been reformulated.
I’m passionately devoted to my favourite products (if anyone altered La Roche Posay Cicaplast, I’d riot), and I don’t like change, so I delved into these so-called new-and-improved formulas with a raised eyebrow and a near constant shaking of the head. What would possess a brand to take a risk on changing its bestselling products? Let’s find out together.
Why reformulations are the biggest beauty trend of 2026
After weeks of whinging to my colleagues and questioning the motives of these brands, I decided to actually speak to a professional. Not a therapist (although that might be an idea), but Abi Cleeve, a skin expert and owner of SkinSense, Ultrasun and SBC Skincare. Formulation is a huge part of Abi’s expertise, so I hoped she could share some insight into this phenomenon.
Why do brands choose to reformulate?
One word, “Innovation,” says Abi. "There are now better, more sophisticated ingredients available that could genuinely enhance what's already loved,” she says. It’s what’s been repeated in all the press releases of these reformulations. They claim that the exciting new formulas now contain better ingredients that will work 10 times better, and faster, while improving your skin/hair/body.
Ok, yes, fine. If a product is working perfectly well for millions of consumers, though, isn’t it a huge gamble to mess with it? “For me, the deciding factor is always whether innovation has moved on,” says Abi. “Are there better, more sophisticated ingredients available now that would enhance the formula people already love? If the answer is yes, and those ingredients serve the original purpose of the product more effectively, then reformulation isn't really a risk, it's a responsibility to your customer.”
It’s hard to argue with that logic. If, as a brand, you feel your formulas are lagging behind, it makes sense to update them. Still, it feels like a risk. “It's a real balancing act,” admits Abi. “When your customers have connected with a formula, you have to weigh up the ‘if it ain't broke, don't fix it’ instinct against the possibility that you're bringing something truly valuable to them. As a customer, when you find something that genuinely works for you, the thought of having to start that search all over again is genuinely worrying. Brands need to understand that loyalty like that is hard-won, and any change has to honour it.”
2026’s riskiest reformulations - that paid off
RRP: £54
I was at an industry-wide event for Charlotte Tilbury they announced that they were changing their bestselling Magic Cream, and the collective gasp that went around the room was as if we’d been told they were cancelling Christmas. It’s such a hero product for the brand, one of the bestsellers of their entire range, so I was stunned. After one use, though, I can see why it’s justified. It’s lighter, fresher, and makes a noticeable difference to the smoothness and plumpness of your face minutes after applying.
Find out what four members of the team think of the reformulation
RRP: £39.50
I literally stopped in my tracks when I got the email about the Estée Lauder Double Wear Foundation reformulation. It’s a nostalgic buy for me - it was one of the first ‘grown-up’ beauty buys I ever made. It’s also one of the best-selling foundations in the world and frankly, a bit of a cash cow for Estee Lauder. I later went onto their website and noticed hundreds of angry customer reviews lamenting these changes, but having tried the formula, it is actually very good. It has the coverage and the staying power of the original, while feeling comfier to wear and better treating skin. Beauty Channel Editor Fiona McKim is a fan too.
RRP: £32
Olaplex No3 is a product that I’ve written about endlessly - hairdressers always recommend it, and I’ve gone through countless bottles. When the brand hinted they were launching something exciting, I assumed it was a new step in their lineup. Lo and behold, they were promoting their hardest worker. The new version, I’ll admit, is much easier to slot into your routine. Pre-washes can be a faff to incorporate, and whereas before you’d need it to sit in your hair for a minimum of ten minutes, the new formula only requires three, which is easier to manage. It also targets all three of the bonds in your hair, whereas the older formula only treated one.
Reformulation in beauty heroes - our verdict
It seems I’m guilty of being stubborn and stuck in the past. I’m in my thirties, and here I am, shaking my fist at the sky, exclaiming that things were better back in the good old days. I suppose it’s because I know how long it takes to track down these products - it can take years of testing to finally narrow down the best foundation for you. All that time, effort and money, and the relief when you finally find ‘the one’, only for a brand to, recklessly, (in my opinion), change it. No wonder all those people on the Estee Lauder website were fuming.
Having tried a few of these revamped formulas, though, I can see why the decision has been made. These brands want their products to be brought up to date and to perform better, and you have to assume they've weighed up the risk before potentially angering millions of loyal customers.
I just wish they would give us some warning. Give us a chance to stockpile and to mourn what we're about to lose. I'm already slightly prone to hoarding, so I don't really have the space in my flat for 40 La Roche Posay Cicaplasts, Kate Somerville Goat Milk Cleansers and Color Wow Dreaming Hair Treatment. Maybe it's time for a storage unit.
