Is it better to air-dry your hair, and can you do it without frizz? A hairstylist advises

Depending on who you ask, we're either having the summer we've always dreamed of or this run of heatwaves has been the stuff of nightmares. Either way, we can probably all agree that sticky temperatures, at home or on holiday, make heat styling your hair an unappealing prospect.

Even the best hair dryer, on the coolest setting, can feel uncomfortable on a hot day, so it's tempting to avoid blow drying altogether - but is it bad to air dry your hair? And can you do it without frizz or flat, limp roots?

As ever, it pays to ask the experts - so we've taken our most pressing air drying questions straight to Neale Rodger, Style Director at STIL Salon, who has advised us whether forgoing hot tools is good or bad, how to banish flyaways, and which products make heat-free styling a breeze, for every hair type.

Is it bad to air dry your hair?

Most hair experts agree that a blow dry break never goes amiss - with a few caveats. "I personally think a balance is best," agrees Neale. "Giving your hair regular breaks from excessive heat styling can certainly help maintain its condition over time - but that said, air drying isn’t automatically healthier for everyone. If someone has very thick hair, leaving it damp for long periods isn’t always ideal."

With that in mind, what is the optimum ratio of air drying versus heat styling? "I usually tell clients to work with their lifestyle and hair type," explains Neale. "If you can air dry a few times a week and reduce your reliance on hot tools, that’s a great habit to get into."

How to air dry without frizz

If air drying is a no-brainer for summer comfort and hair health, it's a slightly trickier sell from a styling perspective. Without the power and cuticle-smoothing effects of heat, fine hair can often go flat and flyaway while thick, textured hair gets an attack of the frizzies. However, there are things you can do to help smooth things over.

"Fine hair tends to dry quite quickly, but it can easily fall flat if left completely untouched", explains Neale. "So I’d recommend applying a lightweight volumising spray or mousse to damp roots, then gently lifting sections away from the scalp as it dries. If you’re prone to flyaways, a small amount of lightweight cream through the mid-lengths and ends can help smooth things out without sacrificing volume."

As for thick or textured hair, "The key is product and technique," according to Neale. "Frizz often appears when the hair is disrupted while drying, so once you’ve applied your styling products, try not to touch it too much. A leave-in conditioner, curl cream or lightweight oil are great to help lock in moisture and keep the cuticle smooth. For textured and curly hair especially, I would say hydration is everything."

What's the easiest heatless styling method?

If you're used to whacking out your best hair curler or straighteners and love the styling control they give you, the idea of letting your hair do its own thing can feel a bit scary. And while we won't pretend that air and products alone can create as polished a look as plug-in devices, there are ways of achieving shape and texture without resorting to heat.

Neale advises that "braids are probably the easiest option. Putting the hair into one or two loose braids while damp can create a natural bend and movement once it dries," adding that, "You can also twist sections away from the face to give a soft wave."

As a devotee of the Kate Moss twist trick, I can concur that a little wrap and pin can make all the difference to otherwise shapeless hair.

If you have a bit more time on your hands, there are also plenty of heatless curl methods, either for a groomed-looking bouncy curl or simply to add root lift. "For volume, you could use Velcro rollers around the fringe and crown - they still work brilliantly and don’t require any heat at all," advises Neale.

Choose large rollers for bounce and volume, and smaller ones if you want to add in a curl or wave. Once your hair is totally dry, a mist of good old-fashioned hairspray will always help set any style you create - heated or not - and smooth down frizzies.