I’ve been skiing 20 times and this luxury, family-friendly hotel in Austria is the best I’ve ever stayed in

It’s fair to say I’ve stayed in every level of ski accommodation. From the frankly dreadful 2* school ski trip hotel in Alp D’Heuz that was closed down the month after we stayed, to a luxury Fairmont aparthotel in Whistler that I still dream about, and everything in between. There was the Andorran hotel that could never make up for the hell-ish 4.5-hour transfer, the over-priced French resort that stunk of cigarette smoke, and the Austrian apartments that were so hot we had to sleep with the windows open.

My husband and I have been skiing every year since we met, and the country that’s really captured our hearts is Austria, where we’ve skied at least 10 times, from Kitzbuhel to Soll, Saalbach to Hochgurgl. On one holiday in Bad Hofgastein seven years ago, we took a wrong turn and ended up in the village of Grossarl. It was so beautiful we vowed we’d stay there one day but after checking the prices, we decided a special occasion would be called for. So, with both our 40th birthdays this year, it felt like the right time to splurge on a stay at the hotel that had caught our eye – Das Edelweiss Mountain Resort.

Nestled on the outskirts of Grossarl, the hotel has been owned by the Hettegger family since 1978 and began life as a rustic, 14-room guesthouse and cafe. It’s grown considerably since then, but the family values remain – you can see the current, third-generation of owners, Karin and Peter, plus other family members, eating dinner in the restaurant and greeting guests each day.

Although we were attracted to the hotel for its luxury family-orientated facilities, the hotel prides itself on offering dedicated adults-only facilities and there’s plenty of space for everybody to find a quiet retreat. For fellow Sound of Music fans, an edelweiss is a hardy, white mountain flower and inspires the hotel’s logo. In fact, there’s often a musician in reception serenading guests with verses of the song of its namesake.

Arriving at Das Edelweiss

One of many reasons we love skiing in Austria (the food, the people and the tree-lined runs, being just a few of the others) is that so many resorts have short transfers that don’t leave you fearing for your life as they traverse cliffside roads. You can fly to both Innsbruck and Salzburg from the UK in around 2.5hours, and then spend an hour in a taxi and you’re slopeside.

We flew from Birmingham to Salzburg and asked the hotel to pre-book us a taxi with car seats for the girls, which was waiting for us when we arrived. It took an hour to get to Das Edelweiss, which is located in the picturesque village of Grossarl. If you’re feeling super flush, you can even book a helicopter transfer.

As soon as we checked in, and received our welcome glass of sparkling wine, I felt a weight lift from my shoulders. We received a link to an app where we could keep track of what we’d charged to the room and settle our bill, which was super helpful. My tip is to make sure you take advantage of the welcome tour as the hotel is sprawling and it helps you to get your bearings.

Skiing at Das Edelweiss

Ski-in, ski-out hotels – which mean minimal ski carrying and are basically a godsend – are few and far between in Austria, but Das Edelweiss genuinely is, with a blue run finishing literally next to one of the outdoor swimming pools. Ski runs in Austria are categorised as Blue, Red or Black, getting progressively more difficult.

Grossarl links into the resort of Dorfgastein and is brilliant for beginners and intermediates. It’s so picturesque, with lots of tree-lined pistes to explore, and a great mix of lift types and runs. One thing worth pointing out is that there aren’t many black runs, just one open when we were there, so there may not be a huge amount to challenge really advanced skiers and boarders. However, your lift pass can cover the whole Ski Amade area, giving you access to 25 resorts and 750 kilometres of piste. The hotel reception can even supply your lift passes, so you’re good to go as soon as you step outside.

One of my favourite things about Grossarl was the free beginner/children’s lifts three bus stops down the road. Ski buses are free to use with a lift pass or for children and are a great way to explore the wider area. At the beginner slopes there were lots of different types of sledges to play on, plus two beginner lifts. Our eight-year-old tried out the tricky drag lift for the first time here, and our three-year-old used the magic carpet to try out her very first ski session.

Each room at Das Edelweiss has an allocated heated ski locker on the ground-floor, so you can leave all your gear right next to the slopes. A word on the ski lockers – not normally something you’d comment on, but these are out-of-this-world, with glove warmers, a mirror for checking your ruddy cheeks, and plenty of space for four people.

The hotel also has a branch Edelsport ski rental right next to the lockers, where you can loan everything you need. Our equipment was new this season, with state-of-the-art skis and revolutionary boots that fasten with a wheel rather than clips. Honestly, I don’t think I can ever go back to my old style.

Panorama offers ski lessons, both group and private, for children and adults. aged three and up. Our daughter had three mornings of private lessons and made so much progress. By the end of them she was using poles and making her way safely down red runs.

The nearest cable car is about 50m from the hotel, and whisks you straight up to a picturesque mountain restaurant and the ski school meeting point. If you’re a total beginner, it’s worth noting there’s a ski hire at the cable car station, Intersport Lackner, offering affordable equipment hire.

I checked Snow Forecast religiously before we arrived – It’s great to get an idea of what the weather and snow conditions will be like in resort. Warning through, you get addicted to the powder alarms!

Childcare at Das Edelweiss

Now it’s fair to say that ski holidays change when you have kids. Less apres, more pool time. Less lengthy dinners, more rushed meals while juggling crayons, colouring books and crafts.

Our daughters are now eight and four, and the eldest has been skiing every year apart from the one her sister was born. The first couple of years we roped in non-skiing family members to join us and babysit for a few hours. But then we had a revelation - there are luxury hotels with proper childcare where you can safely leave little ones for a few hours.

At Das Edelweiss, childcare is included for children aged three and over. Most days this is available from 9am to 9pm, with slightly reduced hours on weekends. You can book meals for your children to have at the childcare, but we chose to ski back and eat as a family. The ladies offering childcare speak multiple languages and organise all sorts of crafts, from wand making to pom pom crafting, which kept our girls enthralled.

The facilities for children are split into four areas – Babyland for under threes, Prizenland for three to six year olds (and where the childcare is located, which older children can use), then the Young Mountain and Cool Mountain areas.

Honestly, our girls would have happily stayed inside the hotel whole week as there was so much to explore. Prizenland has soft play, games, interactive computers and a cinema. In the Young Mountain area there are trampolines, obstacle courses and interactive basketball, football and climbing games. Then the final zone, the Cool Mountain area, has pool tables, table tennis, air hockey and games consoles that the whole family can explore.

Spa and wellness facilities

Honestly the 7,000sqm, six-storey spa at Das Edelweiss is something to behold. There are dedicated adults-only areas, as well as fun zones for families. The biggest draw for the girls was the incredible indoor waterpark, complete with five slides, including a tube slide with a half-pipe and a super-fast funnel slide. This opens twice each day and there’s even a competition once a week to see who can ride the slides fastest, which our eldest won. We never had to queue and sometimes had the place to ourselves.

There’s a dedicated pool for littler ones, with warm, shallow waters, jets to play with and a mini slide. Next to this are just some of the cosy relaxation beds, where the whole family can snuggle up in your robes and enjoy the views. Next to this is the family-friendly ‘textile spa’ which means you can keep your costume on! There’s a sauna, steam room and giant jacuzzi for the whole family to enjoy and our three-year-old swum her first strokes in here.

A deeper family pool downstairs has rapids, jacuzzi jets and fountains to entertain older ones, with swings and giant relaxation pods surrounding it. On the fourth floor you’ll find the outdoor sports pool, with incredible views of the surrounding mountains. I couldn’t believe it was open to families as it looks like something from a high-end adults-only spa retreat, but children were very welcome. Our eight-year-old thought it was hilarious to roll in the snow and jump into the warm water…rather her than me!

Adults get their own relaxation areas across two floors, including an incredible spa (beware, Brits, it’s a nude zone and you’re seen as rude if you wear clothes!) with all manner of saunas, steam rooms, jacuzzis, infa-red beds and relaxation areas. Then the top floor of the spa, with the best view of the neighbouring piste and cable car, is dedicated to an adults-only indoor-outdoor pool. There’s also a spa cafe serving light bites and refreshing homemade juices throughout the day.

I treated myself to a deep tissue massage in the spa on my birthday and honestly it was heavenly. The heated bed lulled me into a deep sleep and the vitamin shot I was given afterwards perked me up, leaving me feeling refreshed and revitalised. There are all manner of treatments on offer, from make up to facials, laser treatments to hammans. Yes, the hotel has its own authentic hamman.

Rooms at Das Edelweiss

We stayed in a Junior Suite which, believe it or not, is one of the most basic levels of room here. If you’re looking to push the boat out, the top-floor spa suites and penthouse have their own pools, dining rooms and incredible views. Whichever category of room you choose, they are immaculately clean and well equipped.

Our room had a huge storage area, which is so handy on a ski holiday, as well as a separate high-tech Gerebit toilet (my husband spent way too much time in here!), double sinks, walk-in shower with mood lighting, and underfloor heating. Austrian box beds are the most comfortable in the world – honestly, I don’t know why we don’t have them here! The sofa bed for the girls passed the trampoline test, and we also had a coffee machine, kettle and could enjoy the first filling on the minibar. The hotel has its own beauty range and all the refillable soaps, shampoos and conditioner smell incredible and were gentle on my sensitive skin.

Our balcony looked out over the traditional neighbouring guest houses with the soaring mountains behind, and had a super-comfy lounger, plus table and chairs which were lovely for a post-ski hot chocolate.

There were fluffy bathrobes and slippers to fit all four of us, and the girls also got lots of welcome gifts, including books featuring the hotel’s mascot and chocolate, which went down a treat. A spa bag is left in each room, which makes transporting your goggles/floaties and books down to the spa so much easier.

One thing to note is that there’s no turndown service – not a big deal to use but worth noting if it’s something you expect from your five-star hotel.

Dining at Das Edelweiss

This hotel has so many incredible places to eat, it’s hard to know where to start. From a Michelin-rated steakhouse served by the in-house butchery to a sushi bar dishing out the freshest fish.

Half board includes breakfast and dinner taken in the beautiful dining room, which is cleverly designed into intimate zones so you feel like you’re dining in a small restaurant. Once you have your table, it’s yours for the duration of your stay which the girls loved.

Breakfast is genuinely the best I”ve ever had at a hotel. From breads and pastries still warm from the oven, to an entire room dedicated to the freshest juices and smoothies. You can order a la carte dishes, including omelettes and eggs benedict, and tuck into a range of cooked breakfast items. If you’re feeling healthy, there’s a yoghurt counter with fresh fruit and granolas, and a tea bar where you can use fresh ginger and lemon to create a hot drink that sets you up for the day. For little ones, there are piping hot waffles and crepes, complete with Nutella machine, which was a highlight of the holiday for my eldest!

At dinner, it’s a six-course affair. You start with the extensive salad buffet (with more bread as you’ve built up an appetite on the slopes), then it’s time to select from a choice of three, three-course menus. The Regional menu showcases local specialities, from schnitzel to burrata, while the Boundless menu is a luxurious choice, from carpaccio or sashimi to venison. Then there’s a Vegetarian option, where local produce takes centre stage. You get a starter, soup, main and pudding delivered by the attentive waiting staff as and when you’re ready, then a cheese course is available at the buffet.

If you’ve got children, there’s no need to worry. Kids are super welcome here and our waitress brought our courses out quickly at our request so the girls weren’t waiting around. There’s a children’s buffet each night (also ideal if you’re a fussy adult), with favourites such as pasta, burgers and chicken nuggets with plenty of veggies. If there’s nothing your little ones like, you can also order them an a la carte dish from the kids’ menu, which includes sausages, beef strips, and all the traditional favourites, including fries with ketchup and mayo. There’s also a dessert buffet for younger guests with ice cream bar, whipped cream machine and doughnut stand – again, lots of adults indulged here!

A quick thing to note if you’ve never been to Austria before, it’s normal to be charged for tap water here. You can safely drink the water in your room as it’s some of the freshest and cleanest in the world.

Added extras at Das Edelweiss

Das Edelweiss is the only hotel in Austria to be affiliated to Mercedes Benz. It means every guest can reserve a top-of-the-range Mercedes for a couple of hours during their stay. We grabbed a couple of the complimentary sledges and headed 20 minutes up the valley to Hohe Tauren National Park where we hiked to a waterfall – and sledged back down.

Car bookings are done through the concierge service, which is incredible. Felix, in particular, was wondering at answering all of our queries both before and during our trip, from helping my husband organise a surprise cake on my birthday to showing us around the Mercedes and helping us sort our lift passes.

As well as the beautiful bar, with lots of cosy armchairs and sofas to snuggle up on and enjoy a drink, the hotel has a dedicated wine bar with a sommelier, who can introduce you to some of the 35,000 vintages in the cellar. There’s also a cigar lounge if that’s something that appeals.

The hotel holds lots of classes and events for guests to enjoy free or charge, from reformer pilates to wine tasting. We loved discovering Austrian wines from visiting local vineyards during our stay, while the girls enjoyed the twice daily film showings (good for their German!).

What to wear when skiing

If you’re new to skiing, then it can be tricky knowing what to wear in the snow. Make sure you avoid the biggest mistake I see first-timers making – wearing huge, knitted jumpers. Yes, an ‘Apres’ knit looks super cute, but worn under a ski jacket and you’ll be ready to pass out before you’ve made it through airport security.

The same goes for at the hotel. I’ve never been in a ski hotel that’s anything less than toasty 24/7. You’re better off with a thin dress and tights if you’re staying in, or jeans and a blouse. Here are the other essentials you’ll need:

• Something to wear on the slopes. Either a one-piece or a jacket and salopettes. Your normal waterproofs won’t cut it so you need to invest in proper skiwear with taped seams, skirts to stop snow going inside, and proper waterproof and windproof performance. A one-piece looks great and feels like a warm second skin without any bulk, but going to the toilet is a bit of a mission, so choose wisely!
• Waterproof boots. Wear these to travel as you never know when you’ll arrive to a blizzard. I’ve worn everything from Moon Boots to supermarket snow boots but the boots I wore this year, from Fairfax & Favour are my favourite – fleece lined, waterproof but not too bulky.
• A helmet and goggles. You can hire helmets in resort but you’ll need you own goggles. Some modern helmets come with built-in visors, which are brilliant if you wear glasses. If you’ve been watching the Winter Olpymics, you’ll have spotted a lot of the European brand Giro. We went for Giro Tenet Mips helmets, which were warm, breathable and, most importantly, safe. My goggles – Giro Article II – were amazing, with large, interchangeable lenses perfect for both white-out and sunny days. We always rent helmets for the girls as they grow so quickly and purchase their goggles off Vinted.

• Base layers. No, not any old leggings and a t-shirt, but proper base layers that regulate your temperature and stop you becoming too hot or too cold. I discovered My Sunday Ski on Instagram and their ribbed cabernet base layers set lived up to the hype. So flexible, breathable and the leggings were thick enough that I wore them out on a couple of occasions with nothing over the top.
• Clothes for apres. As mentioned above, thin layers are better than anything thick. For blue sky days, you don’t need waterproof wear. I took my Fairfax & Favour Sienna cape and got so many compliments.
• Swimwear. Most ski accommodation has some kind of pool or hot tub facility on site or nearby. Even though the adult spas in Europe are a nude area, you’ll want your swimsuits to wear in the pools and when relaxing. At Das Edelweiss, towels can be replaced numerous times a day by the pool so no need to take any, even for the kids, but check with your accommodation.
• Only buy your own ski equipment if you’re a pro. It’s so much easier to hire it in resort and know you’ll get the latest equipment. If you do get better and want to take your own skis or board, you have to check it in as oversized baggage and collect them in a separate location to your suitcase. We take our own helmets and boots but put them inside our suitcases, which is less hassle.