A great red light therapy device will supercharge your skin. It might sound techy and some of the masks look like they've come straight out of a Horror film, but light therapy is completely safe, and a proven, efficacious way to rev up collagen production for smoother, fresher skin.
The LED part stands for ‘light emitting diode’, and involves sending different wavelengths of light into the skin to alter cellular function. Red light therapy devices stimulate the production of collagen and elastin to improve skin firmness and reduce wrinkles. As a Beauty Editor, I have been fortunate enough to try some of the best red light therapy devices on the market: one of which I've kept up religiously. Over the course of a year, I have seen my tired-looking skin become a little less haggard and a little more peachy. That’s not to say I can attribute it all to my red light wand - I’m a firm believer that LED should be used in conjunction with a solid skincare regime. It’s not a get-out-of-jail-free card for taking care of your skin.
As somewhat of a red light therapy device devotee, I have discovered that not all tools are created equal. So I’ve used my own experience to flag the pros and the cons of different tools and what you should consider before making the splurge.
I'm a few years off 40 and really starting to notice that the expression lines around my eyes are not springing back quite so snappily – and I won't even get started on my under-eye bags. I regularly use red light therapy devices to help top up my collagen stores and supplement my skincare regimen.
What you need to know before buying a red light therapy device, according to a Beauty Editor
LED face mask vs LED wand
1. Some devices make you do the hard work
Light therapy tools vary from handy handbag-sized wands to bulkier robotic-looking masks. Each has their benefits so it’s worth considering the technical specs before you splurge. If you’re the sort of person who paints their nails, watching Netflix, while simultaneously adding the latest H+M designer drop to your online basket, then you’ll probably appreciate a light, wearable, cordless device like Dr Dennis Gross DRx SpectraLite FaceWare Proso you can mask and multitask.
If you want to hone in on precise areas of the face, like under-eye bags, then a smaller cordless wand like the Solawave can work well, and takes up less room, as long as you don’t mind the manual input required to smooth it across your skin. It's not exactly strenuous, but it all comes down to personal preference.
2. Not every device offers multiple light therapies
When you are choosing a light therapy device, think about your skin goals and what you’re looking to treat. "LED stands for light emitting diodes in different colour wavelengths that are then absorbed by the skin," explains Dr. Maryam Zamani, a leading Oculoplastic Surgeon and Aesthetic Doctor. Many devices offer different light wavelengths to hone in on your skin’s specific needs and treat an array of skin complaints. "Red and yellow light help with overall rejuvenation, fibroblast production, and are anti-inflammatory so will soothe the skin and give a general glow," explains Dr. Zamani. "Blue light treats acne and green light is used to target pigmentation."
If blemishes are your number one skin concern, then a red light therapy device might not be the best treatment for you. However, many LED face masks now offer an a la carte menu of light colours to choose from in the one device. So if you’re prone to acne, but also concerned about fine lines and wrinkles, you can effectively treat both. The MZ Skin Light Therapy Golden Facial Treatment Device runs the gamut of light colours to offer complete skin rejuvenation, making it one of the best red light therapy devices on the market. As Dr. Zamani explains: "MZ Skin's LED has the capacity to efficiently provide red, yellow, blue and green light for multi-functionality."
The Solawave, by comparison, only offers red light therapy so you won’t be able to treat acne or hyperpigmentation, which may be a dealbreaker for some people. My outbreaks are a lot more low-key these days so it doesn't bother me too much. What it lacks in light settings it makes up for in other skin-improving technologies like microcurrent, massage and warmth. These add-ons not only make the treatment more enjoyable, but improve circulation, de-puff and brighten skin.
Dr. Maryam Zamani is a leading Oculoplastic Surgeon and Aesthetic Doctor based in London. With over 15 years of experience, she has garnered international acclaim for her expertise in Oculoplastic surgery and skin rejuvenation. Driven by a commitment to bridge the gap between high-performance skincare and luxury, she founded the MZ Skin range.
3. They can be annoying to store
If storage space is at a premium, like it is in my house, it’s worth noting that LED face masks will take up more room than handheld tools. I keep my Lustre ClearSkin Renew Pro Facewear in its original box, safely tucked away and protected from accidental knocks and enquiring 4 year-olds. All-told, it’s probably no bigger than a shoe box so it's not like you'll have to pay for a storage locker. Mine is kept at the bottom of my wardrobe. The downside being that once it’s neatly squirrelled away, I tend to forget about it. It's taking up valuable real estate in my wardrobe, but doing nothing for my wrinkles. Tut tut.
The Solwave wand, however, is neat and nifty, measuring 1.5cm in width, 14.5cm in length. It’s no bigger than a glass nail file and as light as a pen, making it easily portable and comfortably storable. Mine sits right next to my retinoid serum, night cream and collagen supplement on my bedside table: a handy visual reminder to use it for a minimum of five minutes, three times per week.
4. Battery life can vary
Cordless tools are brilliant, but only if the battery life is generous. Most red light therapy devices are charged via a USB, and to be honest, of all the tools I have tried, I've found the battery life to be more than adequate. Impressive even. Take the Dr Dennis Gross DRx SpectraLite FaceWare Pro - a single charge should last 8-10 treatments. Pretty good. My Solawave wand takes 120 minutes to fully charge and will then work for a full 60 minutes. If you're using it for three minutes at a time, as per the recommendation, then you'll get 20 sessions out of one charge.
5. They can be eye-wateringly expensive
Probably the biggest consideration when it comes to buying a red light therapy device is the price. These babies can be crazy-expensive. You’d be hard-pushed to find any under the £100 mark. Usually, they vary from around £150 up to £500. Just like the best mascara, expensive doesn't necessarily mean better.
If you know it's something you will use religiously then you might be able to justify splurging on one of the snazzier, all-singing, all-dancing hands-free masks, which offer multiple types of light therapy. If however, you're the sort of person who darts from skin fad to skin fad, then it might be worth experimenting with a slightly more affordable red light wand.
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