If these ingredients are in your lip balm, it could be making your chapped lips worse, say experts

Dry, chapped lips are one of those beauty complaints that seem to crop up every winter, no matter how diligent we are with lip balm.

Unlike the rest of our face, our lips have very little natural protection against moisture loss. The outer layer of skin is incredibly thin and lacks oil glands, leaving it particularly vulnerable to drying external factors such as cold weather and central heating.

“In autumn and winter, lips are hit from both sides – cold wind and low humidity outdoors, then dry central heating indoors,” says Emma Wedgwood, advanced nurse practitioner and medical director of Wedgwood Medical. “Add in the instinct to lick them when they feel tight, and the cycle begins. Saliva evaporates quickly and contains digestive enzymes, so it leaves lips drier and more irritated than before.”

The obvious solution is to reach for a nourishing lip balm, but it pays to take a closer look at the ingredients list. Certain ingredients that are commonly found in lip balms can actually make dryness and irritation worse. Ahead, Wedgwood shares what to look for – and, importantly, what to avoid.

Which lip balm ingredients should you avoid?

That refreshing tingle you get from certain lip balms might feel reassuring, but it isn't necessarily a sign that the product is doing your lips any good. “Menthol, camphor and phenol create the cooling tingle we associate with a balm ‘working’, but that sensation is often a sign of mild irritation,” explains Wedgwood.

“On lips that are already compromised, they can further disrupt the skin barrier, leaving lips drier once the initial relief wears off. Many people then reapply more often, which keeps the irritation going.”

And it's not just cooling ingredients that are worth keeping an eye on. Fragrance and flavourings are also common additions to lip care formulas, particularly those promising a more sensorial experience.

“Lips are a frequent site of contact irritation and allergy, and ingredients such as cinnamon, peppermint and other essential oils can trigger it, even in natural or organic formulations,” says Wedgwood. “Some people react to lanolin or propolis, too, despite their soothing reputation. And avoid exfoliating acids, such as salicylic acid, on lips that are already cracked.”

Which ingredients should you look for in a lip balm?

So, what should you be looking for instead? Ideally, a formula that not only delivers a hefty dose of hydration but also helps to lock that moisture in.

“Look for a balm that both hydrates and seals. Humectants such as hyaluronic acid and glycerin draw water into the skin, but need an occlusive layer to stop that moisture escaping (for example, petrolatum, beeswax, shea butter, or lanolin if you tolerate it),” explains Wedgwood.

“Ceramides and squalane help support the skin barrier, while panthenol (provitamin B5) soothes and aids repair.” And don't forget about sun protection. While we tend to associate SPF with warmer weather, our lips need protecting from UV rays year-round.

“For daytime, choose a balm with SPF. Lips have very little melanin, so they’re particularly vulnerable to UV damage, even in winter,” adds Wedgwood.

How to prevent chapped lips

Ahead, Wedgwood shares her top tips for keeping lips soft, smooth and hydrated throughout the colder months.

• Break the licking habit! Keep a simple, fragrance-free balm to hand so you reach for that instead.
• Apply a generous layer of a rich, occlusive balm at night, when lips can repair undisturbed.
• Resist peeling or picking at flakes, and don’t scrub cracked lips. Gentle exfoliation can wait until they’ve healed.
• Wear SPF on your lips whenever you’re outdoors, all year round.
• Counter central heating with a humidifier and stay well hydrated.
• If lips haven’t improved within two weeks, or there’s persistent cracking at the corners of the mouth, see a healthcare professional. It may be a skin condition, infection or allergy that needs specific treatment.