Why does our skin look worse when it's cold? Doctors explain 'winter face' and how to resolve it

I can't speak to the weather in your specific location, but from where I'm sitting, it feels like we've jumped straight from the pleasantly temperate tail end of summer to hot water bottle and thick socks territory.

It happens around this time every single year, and yet it always feels like a shock. But one thing that is a bit more predictable, once the weather turns, is that our skin will start looking - to put it bluntly - a fair bit worse.

Ah yes, winter skin: Rosacea flares up, lines look deeper, rough texture, dryness and a general end-of-year grey start to set in. According to aesthetic doctors, this is called 'winter face,' a gloomy-sounding phenomenon that, less depressingly, might not actually be the true decline it seems. Here's what you need to know.

Does winter actually 'age' our skin?

Has your skin suddenly changed as the temperature has dipped? The most important thing to know is that it's probably temporary.

"Winter doesn’t necessarily accelerate ageing, but it can make existing signs of ageing considerably more visible,” agrees Dr Nestor Demosthenous, Aesthetic Doctor MBChB, MSc, BSC and founder of The Mayfield Clinic on behalf of Allergan Aesthetics.

As you might expect, much of this comes down to dehydration, caused by central heating, frosty temperatures and biting winds. This moisture-sapping trio doesn't just dry your skin out and make it uncomfortable; it can also give it a dull tone and make lines look deeper, seemingly overnight.

But, reassuringly, according to Dr Nestor, “Genuine structural ageing, involving collagen degradation, elastin damage and loss of facial volume, develops much more gradually" - so you can consider this more of a treatable blip.

What's the true cause of 'winter face'?

As with so much in skincare, this all comes down to your barrier - the outer layer of your skin that, in layman's terms, works to keep good stuff in and bad stuff out.

"Healthy skin relies on an effective barrier and adequate water content within its outer layers to maintain a smooth, supple and luminous appearance," explains Dr Nestor. And when your face is being attacked from all angles by the latest named storm, the floodgates open.

"When the skin barrier is compromised, the lipids that act as the “mortar” between our skin-cell “bricks” start to break down, creating tiny gaps that let moisture escape and irritation creep in," agrees Dr Julie Scott, Nurse Prescriber and Clinical Director of Facial Aesthetics on behalf of Allergan Aesthetics. Thus barrier support and repair is the key to preventing - and treating - the winter face phenomenon.

How can we prevent winter face?

If a compromised skin barrier is to blame for winter face, then it follows that a healthy, supported barrier can help you overcome it. And, according to our experts, a simple, gentle routine is all that's required.

"What skin really needs at this time of year is more nourishment, gentler cleansing, richer moisturisers and consistent hydration, not aggressive treatments,” explains Dr Scott, who warns against the common pitfall of trying to fight your way back to a summer glow with extreme products and treatments.

"In my clinic, I see the same mistakes every year: people over-exfoliate to “smooth” flakes, reach for harsh foaming cleansers, or layer strong actives in the hope of brightening dull winter skin. Unfortunately, all this further disrupts the barrier."

Instead, look out for products containing effective yet non-irritating ingredients such as ceramides, niacinamide and peptides, which all support the skin rather than going hell for leather on exfoliation or cell turnover.

What professional treatments can help?

If you want to take your winter skincare a step further with an in-clinic treatment, focusing on deep hydration and collagen stimulation would be a good way to go.

"For patients looking to complement their home routine, I often suggest treatments like SKINVIVE," suggests Dr Scott. "It works by supporting AQP3, a protein that helps transport water and glycerol within the skin, improving hydration, resilience and overall skin quality.”

Another injectable worth consideration is Galderma's Sculptra, a biostimulator that works on a deeper level to trigger your cells to produce new collagen and elastin. This helps give the skin a plumped appearance and well-supported structure that's more naturally resilient.

Chemical peels and ablative laser treatments can also be very effective in encouraging a more radiant tone, but should be approached with caution if you have a compromised skin barrier, as they can cause further sensitivity.

How do I know if my barrier is damaged?

If you think you have a case of 'winter face' and suspect your barrier may be to blame, it's a good idea to know how to spot the signs of a damaged skin barrier, and how to differentiate it from other forms of skin unhappiness.

"I tell my patients that dehydration, irritation and true barrier damage can look similar, but there are clear differences," explains Dr Scott, who provided this handy guide:

• Dehydration: "Simply feels tight and dull; the 'bricks' are just thirsty.
• Irritation: Is usually product-driven: that instant sting or flush after something new, more like a reaction to a fresh coat of paint.
• Barrier damage: This is unmistakable: lingering redness, soreness, micro-flaking and a sense that even gentle products now tingle.”