I thought Guernsey would be a sleepy seaside escape – but discovered stylish restaurants, boutique shops and the most peaceful neighbouring island

I used to think of Guernsey as somewhere people retired to rather than travelled to, a quaint Channel Island with a pretty coastline, cream teas and little else. It took less than an hour from London City Airport to realise how wrong I was. So what is there to do in Guernsey? Within a morning, I was checking into the five-star Old Government House Hotel & Spa, and wondering why I'd never considered it for a long weekend before. Full of history, this hotel blends tradition with luxury and every amenity you may need for a trip. My mornings began with time in the spa's sauna and jacuzzi before an English breakfast that had me eager to wake up early.

Guernsey has all the charm you'd expect from a seaside island, and St Peter Port is a patchwork of colourful houses that fall towards the harbour, while the coastline alternates between dramatic cliffs and hidden coves. Yet what surprised me most was how cosmopolitan it felt. Beyond the postcard views, there are excellent restaurants, independent boutiques and stylish shops that kept me, a fashion writer, very occupied. It has everything you need for a slower-paced weekend or holiday, but with enough culture, shopping and excellent restaurants to satisfy city lovers too.

One of the most impressive restaurants I dined at was Fukku, a Japanese restaurant that has stayed on my mind since – if it were local to where I live, I would have a regular table. Using locally sourced ingredients, the menu delivers exceptional flavour with a creative twist, proving that Guernsey's food scene is far more sophisticated than many might expect. The kimchi croquettes are an absolute must-order; crisp on the outside, packed with flavour and quite possibly one of the best things I ate during my stay.

For a more classic evening experience, The Crown Club Bar at The Old Government House Hotel & Spa offers a completely different kind of indulgence. With its rich red leather seating, historic interiors and glamorous atmosphere, it feels like stepping into a Hemingway novel. The signature cocktails and decadent interiors make it the perfect place to end an evening after a day exploring the island.

One of the highlights of my stay was following in the footsteps of Renoir, who painted on the island in 1883. A self-guided tour led us to a peaceful rocky cove fringed with lush greenery, where it was easy to see why the Impressionist was so captivated by the landscape. Afterwards, we settled into a perfectly positioned cafe that overlooked the water and rocky cliffs with a sandwich and coffee in hand.

Guernsey is also a good place for those who want to be a little more active. After indulging in the island's food and wine the evening prior, I found myself paddleboarding across calm waters with an excellent local instructor, and the fresh sea air was definitely a welcome change. Guernsey is also a walker's dream, with more than 40 miles of coastal paths winding through wildflower-covered cliffs, hidden bays and sweeping sea views. I could easily return for a dedicated walking holiday.

Yet as wonderful as Guernsey was, the real magic came when I boarded a short 20-minute ferry to Herm. If Guernsey offers an escape from city life, Herm completely erases it. With no cars, no crowds and just one hotel, this tiny island feels completely detached from the outside world. The Island is leased by the couple John and Julia Singer, whom we had the pleasure of meeting towards the end of our stay at their house located further up the Island.

As we arrived towards the end of the season in September, the beaches were almost empty, and the silence was extraordinary. And as a Londoner, I realised this was the first time in a long time I couldn’t hear the distant hum of a car engine.

The White House Hotel, the island's only hotel, makes this island even more special. Charming and intimate, the hotel has a homely feeling that’s warm and inviting. The swimming pool sits within a tree-sheltered garden overlooking the sea, and from my sunbed it felt less like a hotel amenity and more like someone's private house.

The island's yellow sandy beaches are so striking that locals often compare Herm to a Caribbean island; however, one reached by ferry rather than a long-haul flight. The rooms feel simple yet thoughtful, and I was lucky enough to have a balcony that was excellent for stargazing.

I've been fortunate enough to travel widely, but few places have lingered in my mind quite like Herm. The serenity takes immediate effect once you set foot on the island, and it’s hard to remember a world outside – it's safe to say I’m planning to go back.

For people looking for a long weekend break that doesn't require a long flight, Guernsey and Herm offer everything you want from a weekend away. Guernsey is sophisticated and has all the amenities of a city break with excellent restaurants, shops and bars, whilst also offering beautiful beaches and nature. And Herm offers you complete tranquillity. Plus, you get the feeling that you've travelled further than the journey that’s required, especially if you fly from London City Airport.