Why you might be applying hyaluronic acid wrong - and what to do instead

Not seeing the benefits of your favourite hydration-boosting ingredient? Here's why you might be applying hyaluronic acid wrong...

When it comes to building a skincare routine, it's a pretty universally shared opinion that including one of the best hyaluronic acid serums is essential. For starters, the ingredient is non-irritating, so it's suitable for all skin types and is heralded for its hydrating, dryness-busting powers.

That being said though, there is actually a knack to applying it that you might not be aware of - and it can make all the difference to its efficacy. So, we've asked the experts to outline exactly how to use hyaluronic acid on your skin to see the best results.

Dr Leah Totton

Dr Leah Totton is a medical and cosmetic doctor and founder of both the Dr Leah Cosmetic Skin Clinic and Dr Leah Skincare. You may also recognise her as one of the winners of the BBC's The Apprentice and now, Totton has shared expertise on all things hyaluronic acid...

Dr Maryam Zamani

Dr Maryam Zamani is a world-renowned Oculoplastic Surgeon and Facial Aesthetics Doctor, who has shared expertise on how to apply hyaluronic acid correctly. 

Why you might be applying hyaluronic acid wrong

Hyaluronic acid can come in many forms, whether it's present in your best moisturisers or eye creams but when it comes to a concentrated serum, in particular, there's a lesser-known but crucial way to apply it.

But first thing's first, what does hyaluronic acid do? Dr Leah Totton, Medical and cosmetic doctor and founder of the Dr Leah Cosmetic Skin Clinics explains that it helps "the skin to retain moisture, promoting hydration, wound healing and skin elasticity. It may also be able to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines, increase plumpness and can protect the skin from free radicals. It is important to note that hyaluronic acid is not an exfoliator, a common misconception due to the word acid." It should also not be confused with niacinamide (another popular skincare hero), as while offering similar nourishing benefits, hyaluronic acid and niacinamide do have a few key differences.

As for application, Dr Totton says: "Hyaluronic acid should be applied after cleansing, whilst the skin is still damp, so it can lock in the moisture."

Why do you need to apply hyaluronic acid to damp skin?

"Hyaluronic acid needs to be applied to damp skin because it draws in moisture," explains Dr Totton and ironically, "it can actually dry the skin out if not applied to wet skin because it will attract the moisture that is already in the deeper layers of the skin."

Dr Totton reminds us though, that "the skin does not need to be soaking wet, just slightly damp." To put this into practice, once you've washed away your best cleansers, pat your face gently with a towel, leaving it damp but not dry - or allow your skin to air-dry slightly (so water isn't streaming down your cheeks) - before then going in with your HA serum. We also recommend combining this step with a Gua Sha face tool, for a toning and relaxing facial massage.

Facial Aesthetics Doctor and Oculoplastic Surgeon, Dr Maryam Zamani adds: "Hyaluronic acid is a molecule naturally found in the skin, capable of attracting up to 1,000 times its weight in water (like a sponge), applying to damp skin helps ensure there’s enough water present for it to soak up."

Another method to ensure you get the maximum efficacy out of your hyaluronic acid is to pair it with ceramides. As Totton notes: "Ceramides work really well with HA, as they protect the skin’s moisture barrier and can prevent moisture loss. Pairing a ceramide with HA will only maintain hydration. 

"Apply hyaluronic acid first, then wait one minute and apply the ceramide. Ceramide is suitable for most skin types and found in most moisturisers."

Our team's go-to hyaluronic acid serums

When should hyaluronic acid serum come in your routine?

If you're relatively new to this ingredient and are wondering when to apply hyaluronic acid in general, Dr Totton recommends using it as part of your morning and evening routine as, "using it twice a day to get the maximum benefits."

Dr Zamani agrees and adds that using it in the morning, "helps provide all-day hydration, creating a smooth canvas for makeup application," whilst at night: "HA helps reduce transepidermal water loss, ensuring a revitalized complexion by morning. Consistent use of HA, regardless of the time of day, promotes long-term skin health and resilience."

You should apply it after cleansing, whilst your skin is still damp, to ensure all that hydration soaks in, "You should then apply your moisturiser after you have applied your HA serum and of course, always use an SPF to protect against sun damage. Always wait at least one minute before going onto the next stage of your skincare, so the skin has time to absorb the ingredients," says Dr Totton.

You can also try hyaluronic acid stacking, where you layer a few products - like a serum and moisturiser- that contain HA. 

• When to use your HA serum: After cleansing, apply to damp skin and then wait a minute before moving onto your moisturiser - then finish with your SPF.