My unusually frizzy hair was caused by ‘protein overload’ - here's how to tell if you've got it, and how to fix it
Can masks and treatments actually make our hair worse?
Have you ever woken up to discover your hair has taken on some major, unexpected frizz? That’s what happened to me. Over the course of 2026, I've noticed my locks changing. While I’ve always had fairly dry, weak hair that suffers from hair breakage (thanks, heated tools and bleach), I’ve never really experienced frizz. So naturally, I started to question what had changed.
Toreverse my newfound flyaways, I perused my social media feed: what new products, techniques, or trends could help? I found Abbey Yung and her now-viral 11-step method. I got to work drenching my hair in the best hair masks for recovery and styling mists. But just weeks in, I started to notice my hair wasn’t really getting better. In fact, it seemed to be looking worse.
That’s when I discovered what many critics of the Yung method point to: the routine is heavy on protein and bonding formulas, overuse of which can leave hair dry, brittle and even frizzy – the opposite of what you're after. It’s referred to as "protein overload". On a mission to work out what was really going on with my hair, I reached out to trusted trichologists and stylists to investigate.
What are protein treatments?
Before going any further, it’s important to clarify that protein treatments are not the same as bond-building treatments. While some might also be formulated with protein, others rely only on targeted active chemical compounds that work differently.
Bond builders for hair target “disrupted disulphide or ionic interactions within the hair fibre after chemical or thermal processing, rather than simply coating the hair with protein,” explains Holden. It's therefore important to check specific products and what they contain, especially if you’re concerned about protein ‘overload.’
That said, Trichologist Kate Holden explains that overusing bond builders “can make your hair feel coated or stiff,” and that reaching for one bonding product a week is “enough for most hair types.”
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A beauty editor favourite, this is applied to damp hair, left for four minutes, and never washed out.
Protein overload explained
When used correctly, protein products can be hugely beneficial, particularly for hair that’s been compromised. They have the capacity to penetrate the hair’s cuticle to smooth, strengthen and – perhaps ironically given this subject matter – reduce frizz.
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“Hair is made primarily of keratin, a structural protein. Everyday factors such as colouring, bleaching, heat styling and UV exposure can damage the hair cuticle and weaken those protein structures,” explains Caroline Hall, Trichologist and founder of R&R Aesthetics. “Protein-based products temporarily fill small areas of damage along the hair shaft, helping hair feel stronger, smoother and less prone to breakage.”
However, importantly, not all hair types need an abundance of topical protein products. It’s most beneficial for those with dryness, frailty and breakage, hence why some who adopt a protein-rich routine find it just doesn’t work for them.
“There are a lot of protein products on the market, and it’s become a bit of a trend, but actually only fragile hair needs protein,” says Christel Barron-Hough, Founder of STIL Salon. “Often hair lacks moisture, hydration and bond-building support, so while protein products are good, they need to be chosen for the right hair needs as they’re often overused.” For those without sensitised hair, “it can actually have the opposite effect and create a more brittle texture,” she adds.
Holden also notes that those with curly hair may need to be more cautious, too. “Curly hair isn't inherently 'protein-sensitive,’ [but] because it tends to be drier, more porous and more vulnerable to mechanical damage, it's often quicker to feel stiff or less flexible if protein-rich products are overused without enough moisture.”
Even hair that responds well to protein products still only needs a certain amount, because buildup is possible. “While protein overload isn't common, repeatedly using multiple protein-heavy products can leave your hair feeling stiff, dry, rough, or more prone to snapping," says Holden. "There's no set amount that's 'too much', it depends on your hair's condition, porosity and how damaged it is."
What are the signs of protein overload
First, look at your routine. Hall says that protein overload is more likely if you’re “layering multiple protein-rich products several times a week.”
This is one of the biggest reasons I believe I may have been overdoing it. Rather than simply incorporating a weekly or fortnightly protein treatment into my regimen, I realised I’d been reaching for protein and bond-building products at pretty much every step: washing, blow-drying and styling. If a quick analysis of your collection leads you to believe you may be doing too much, chances are you very well might be.
Next, the condition of hair should also come into consideration. I noticed a clear correlation between when I started to invest more and more in constant protein or bond-building formulas, and when my hair started to become frizzier.
Am I saying this means it’s the sole cause of my flyaways? No. But was it contributing to my hair staying frizzy and dry? Quite possibly. “Hair overloaded with protein often feels dry, rough, brittle or unusually stiff," says Hall. "Instead of becoming stronger, it may actually become more prone to snapping because it's lost some of its flexibility."
How to fix it - and have a balanced haircare routine
If you suspect you may have been going too hard on the protein or bond builders, it may be time to simply take a step back for a few weeks. Give your hair a little break and see what happens.
“Pause protein-rich products for a while and switch to moisturising shampoos, conditioners and masks," Holden advises. "In most cases, the hair gradually regains softness and flexibility over the next few washes. Clarifying the hair [with gentle detoxifying shampoos] may also be useful to remove product residue."
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A gentle clarifying shampoo that can help to remove buildup before you re-inject moisture into the hair.
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Gisou’s ceramide-rich mask promotes healthier, bouncier hair in a matter of weeks.
Then, reintroduce a protein-based product or simply stick to a bond-building treatment once or twice a month. The easiest way to ensure your hair is reaping the benefits without build-up is to pick one type of product and to use it strictly as directed, rather than every day or every wash.
Struggling to choose just one to invest in? Holden says a leave-in treatment is usually the preferable choice: “Treatments have longer contact time, allowing strengthening ingredients to better work on the hair fibre. Shampoos are rinse-off, so they're less likely to deliver a noticeable strengthening effect.”
Going forward, I will be taking a two-to-three-week break from any protein-heavy products or bond-builders, then slowly reintroducing the K-18 leave-in mask every fortnight, forgoing any similar shampoos, masks or styling products. As with everything, it’s about moderation – and understanding that, sometimes, less is more.
Rebecca (best known as Becky) is a freelance beauty editor and features writer with a decade worth of experience in the industry. She started her career at Glamour UK and has since worked in roles at titles and brands such as Eliza, Bustle and Space NK. She has written for British, US and Australian publications, from Marie Claire and Refinery29 to Stylist and The Coveteur.
She is a keen traveller and often works on the road, covering everything from beauty and fashion to sex, love and dating. Her favourite pieces to write are first person features born from her experiences in the world. She is proudly queer, feminist and pro-choice, and advocates for mental health issues and women's rights. You can check out her work at her portfolio and on her Instagram.
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