6 ways *not* to use niacinamide - to maximise on its myriad of benefits

Beloved for its versatility and barrier-supporting powers, niacinamide is a great all-rounder in a skincare routine but even still, there are few things to note when applying it - namely, how not to use niacinamide...

Whether you're looking to diminish the appearance of fine lines or improve the overall texture of your skin, the best niacinamide serums can be really transformative. It's a great multi-tasker and is even compatible with a number of other go-to ingredients, including the best hyaluronic acid serums. That said though, if you're new to the hard-working active, knowing how, or perhaps more importantly, how not to apply it to your skin is key - to avoid any pesky side-effects like irritation.

To that end, we've enlisted the expertise of skincare experts to outline the key niacinamide mistakes to avoid, specifically concerning application, so you can use the powerhouse safely and with confidence...

How not to use niacinamide on your skin

Despite being a very versatile and well-tolerated ingredient, like with all skincare heroes, it's important to know how to correctly apply it - whether it's the amount you're adding or how and where you're actually applying it to your skin. And as with how not to use retinol (to avoid any potential side effects) there is some niacinamide advice to keep in mind - straight from the experts.

1. Don't apply it too roughly

Regardless of whether you're using a cleanser or applying your best moisturisers, being gentle with your skin is very important - more so when you're using concentrated ingredients and actives.

When applying niacinamide, Dr Emma Cunningham, Aesthetic Doctor and founder of Dr Emma says to, "avoid rubbing the product vigorously into the skin, as this can cause friction and potential irritation." Instead, "gently pat the product into the skin until it is absorbed."

2. Don't apply it to broken and irritated skin

A common 'what not to do' with most ingredients is to avoid applying them to broken or irritated skin.

This is also the case with niacinamide as Dr Cunningham notes, "It can cause further irritation and discomfort."

3. Don't apply concentrations that are too high

While niacinamide is known to be fairly gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, being mindful of the concentration is important. As Dr Magnus Lynch, Consultant Dermatologist and Surgeon explains: "When using niacinamide, do not exceed recommended concentrations, as high levels might lead to irritation."

Dr Cunningham also adds to avoid using niacinamide in high concentrations, "especially for those with sensitive skin," and reminds us to always follow the, "recommended usage guidelines provided by the product manufacturer or a skincare professional."

Like with all skincare ingredients, you should introduce it to your skin gradually, to allow your skin to build tolerance - and to see how it reacts. "A higher concentration than 5% can be irritating to the skin," says Faye Purcell, Head of Research and Development at Q+A, "so bare that in mind if you are new to the ingredient."

4. Don't apply it too often, too soon

While you can use niacinamide every day, it should not - as mentioned - be used in high concentrations or applied at the same time as other potent and sensitising ingredients, like retinol.

If you want to include it in your everyday skincare regime, it's recommended that you start gradually, with a low concentration (between 5 - 10% is advised) to allow your skin to build up a tolerance. It's also best to apply it in the morning, due to its antioxidant benefits.

5. Don't apply too much at once

While it is tempting to douse your skin in your favourite, hard-working formula in the hopes of speeding up and boosting its effects, less is more when it comes to the likes of niacinamide.

Dr Cunningham reminds us to use it in moderation, adding: "When applying niacinamide, it's important not to use too much product. A pea-sized amount is typically sufficient for the entire face." And remember to pat your go-to niacinamide serums or creams into your skin - don't rub.

6. Don't apply it with these actives

While niacinamide is compatible with many other skincare favourites (niacinamide and hyaluronic acid, for instance, can be used in tandem), you should be careful when pairing and layering it with other acids.

Dr Lynch advises to, "refrain from using it alongside acidic products to prevent potential pH conflicts." Equally, if your skin errs on the sensitive side or you tend to see flare-ups when introducing new or potent ingredients to your skin, then be careful about using niacinamide with the likes of retinol and other exfoliating acids - as although these ingredient combos don't necessarily need to be avoided (and can actually be found in formulations together), using these simultaneously can cause irritation.

If you're ever unsure of its compatibility with your skin type or regime in general, Dr Cunningham reminds us to "consult with a dermatologist or skincare expert before incorporating niacinamide into your routine."

Our go-to niacinamide heroes

If you're already a seasoned niacinamide user or are keen to incorporate it into your arsenal, we've rounded up a few of our beauty team's favourites...