If your makeup isn’t sitting like it used to, this is the first thing a makeup artist wants you to change
MUA Aimee Connolly reveals the simple changes to make when your tried-and-tested routine no longer delivers…
I find myself wearing less makeup as I get older, which is ironic, really – when my skin was plump and smooth, I’d layer on my trusted full-coverage MAC foundation, followed by powder bronzer, blush and highlighter. Now, as I notice fine lines around my eyes and a general loss of elasticity, I often skip foundation altogether.
It’s a change that makeup artist Aimee Connolly approves of. Sitting down with the founder of Sculpted by Aimee at her flagship store on Carnaby Street, the Irish beauty expert tells me that one of the biggest makeup mistakes she sees people making is sticking to the same amount, texture or consistency of product they’ve always used, rather than considering what actually works for their skin now.
As our skin changes, she explains, our makeup routine sometimes needs to change with it. The good news? That doesn’t mean overhauling your entire makeup bag. Often, a few considered tweaks are all it takes.
Ahead, Connolly shares the simple changes worth making – from rethinking your skin prep and foundation to choosing creamier textures and taking a lighter-handed approach to definition.
Tip 1: Look at your skincare routine
"Perhaps twenty years ago your routine could have been a little less considered, and now, you do need to give it a bit more time,” says Connolly.
“A lot of the time, when makeup is gathering or skin texture is showing more, it can be down to dehydrated skin or a lack of skin prep,” says Connolly. Ceramides are one ingredient she particularly rates.
“I absolutely adore them,” she says. Found naturally in the skin barrier, ceramides support its ability to retain moisture. "It just gives that extra bit of oomph back into the skin,” says Connolly. “You need that pillowy cushion feel to get the most from your makeup.”
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Tip 2: Be more selective with your coverage
“You might have tolerated heavier coverage before, but actually, now less can be more,” says Connolly. That doesn’t mean you have to forgo foundation altogether. When it comes to how to apply foundation on mature skin, the key is to be more selective about where you place product, rather than treating the entire complexion in the same way.
A lightweight tinted moisturiser is a good place to start, paired with concealer where you want a little more coverage. Alternatively, Connolly suggests a medium-coverage foundation with a skin-like finish. “If there’s redness, rosacea, pigmentation or blemishes that you want to cover, you can absolutely still do that,” she says.
“It doesn’t mean the entire face needs the same level of coverage.” Ultimately, it’s about allowing more of your natural skin to show through without sacrificing coverage where you want it.
Tip 3: Embrace cream textures
“Cream products all the way,” says Connolly, who recommends reaching for cream blush and highlighter to bring freshness back into the complexion. “They give you bounce and reflectiveness. I’m not talking about 3D glitter, but a freshness of texture that you simply can’t mimic with a powder.”
That’s not to say you need to abandon powders completely. Much like the cream vs powder bronzer debate, it comes down to the finish you want to achieve and what works for your skin. Powders can work particularly well for oilier skin types, and Connolly says there’s no reason you can’t mix the two textures. “You might use a powder bronzer to get your structure and shape and then add cream in the areas where you want glow or a pop of colour,” she explains.
One thing Connolly wouldn’t recommend, however, is layering powder blush over cream in an attempt to improve its staying power. “I think it’s a bit of a shame because you’re applying a cream for that cream deliciousness, and then a powder can dull it down,” she says.
Instead, look for a long-wearing, pigmented cream blush that’s designed to stay put. “I’d focus on getting a formula you know is going to last rather than having to compensate with powder on top. People are too busy to be worried about reapplying every few hours.”
Tip 4: Soften harsh lines
Definition can enhance our features, but Connolly believes the key is to soften any hard edges. Take eyeliner, for instance. “I would never just leave it sitting across the lash line,” she says. “I’d always diffuse it with a finger or a brush to soften it.” The same applies to lip liner. “I love a lip shape, and I love definition, but I’ll always blend the liner into the lip, blur it with my finger or blend it with a balm.”
Bronzer and sculpting products should be well buffed, too, so that the colour appears to melt into the complexion rather than looking overly defined. “Sometimes we think those lines are giving us definition, but they can actually make the features look a little harsh,” says Connolly.
Emma Stoddart is a freelance beauty journalist and self-confessed skincare aficionado with over five years’ industry experience. Emma has worked for some of the UK’s top women’s titles including Net-A-Porter, Stylist and Grazia. Her experience spans online and print as well as producing editorial shoots with some of the industry’s biggest artists, including Val Garland. Asides from working with them behind the scenes, she’s also had the chance to interview the likes of Patrick Ta, Pat McGrath, and Sam McKnight for all their insider tips and tricks.
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