If you want to be surrounded by the sweet aroma of roses all summer, you'll want to take note of our expert advice on when the perfect time to prune is.

The most effective way of keeping your roses flowering for longer in summer is proficient pruning, which means knowing when to prune and how to prune roses most effectively. Pruning too early or forgetting to do it at all can not only stunt your roses' growth but can also lead to diseases that could potentially kill the plant.

So, with that in mind, we consulted a team of gardening experts to gauge an ideal timeline for giving rose bushes a timely, healthy chop.

When should you prune roses?

Aside from taking cuttings from roses, knowing how to prune them properly is key to maximising their growth and guaranteeing extra flowers each year. As long as you prune at the right time and in the right way, your plant will thrive each summer.

"The ideal time to prune roses is between the end of winter and early spring, depending on which part of the UK you live in," explains Jamie Shipley, gardening expert and managing director of Hedges Direct. "You want to be pruning when the growing season has started but before blooms start to appear."

He says that this will make it easier to spot healthy, growing stems from those that might be struggling and need to be cut back.

"In warmer areas of the UK, or if the winter is particularly mild, the time to prune roses could be as early as late January. However, in cooler parts, or if the winter has been cold, it’s safer to wait until March," he adds.

No matter where you live, Jamie advises you to keep an eye on the weather forecast and wait until after your last frost date, as this will reduce the chance of your rose stems being damaged in the cold.

Shop rose pruning essentials

Is there a specific cut-off time for pruning roses?

It's no secret that pruning certain plants comes with tight deadlines, from the plants to prune in March to plants you should never prune in summer, it's therefore important to be in the know of what each plant species requires.

"As you head towards spring with warmer and brighter days, the roses will start to develop buds, so more intense pruning or major work should take place in winter," says Andy Tudbury, head gardener at Belvoir Castle. "Although to keep your roses looking fresh and producing more flowers throughout the spring and summer, cut away the dead or past-their-best flowers."

When is it too late to prune roses?

Roses need pruning if you want them to look their best all year round. But when is it too late to prune roses to keep them happy and healthy?

"Late winter to early spring (around February to early March) is the ideal time to prune most types of roses, as this is just before they come out of dormancy and begin to grow again," explains Christopher O'Donoghue, a professional gardener and Co-director at Gardens Revived.

"It’s usually too late to hard prune once new growth has fully emerged, especially if buds have already formed. Once we're into late April or May, and the rose is actively growing, you want to avoid pruning as it might become stressed, leading to weaker regrowth and fewer beautiful blooms."

"If things are looking straggly, you can cut off flower buds, reducing your summer blooms," Chris advises. "And you can still do light deadheading or shaping later in the season (e.g. summer) without harming the plant – just avoid hard pruning after growth has kicked in."

FAQs

What happens if I prune roses too early?

Roses do belong on the list of plants you can prune in January; however, if you cut them back any earlier, you leave the plant vulnerable to freezing temperatures and disease because they are not protected from frosts.

"If you prune roses too early, you are at risk of some dieback below the cuts, or you can run the risk of inviting infection into the plant, which should be avoided," explains Andy.

Therefore, it's better to leave your roses unpruned for a month or two, with March being an appropriate time, so you miss the cold weather. Even when you've protected your plants from frost, the cold weather can be surprisingly aggressive.

Is it ok to cut roses right back?

As one of the most alluring plants to liven up a garden, it's natural to be wary about pruning your roses too much, but luckily, they are a resilient species.

"Don’t worry too much or overthink pruning – roses are resilient and will put on new growth in spring," says Liam Beddall, Senior Rose Consultant at David Austin Roses. "Of course, the approach to pruning your rose depends on its type and how established it is, but generally speaking, you shouldn’t be alarmed if your rose looks a little bare post-prune."

He does say that you should keep in mind that the level of pruning your plant needs depends on how well-established it is.

"Bare root roses don’t require any pruning upon receipt, while younger plants that have flowered for one or two seasons require a light prune, and roses that have bloomed for more than two or three summers can be reduced in size by half," adds Liam.

What month do you cut roses back?

Roses are one of the many plants you can prune in February and well into March, but it's best to see how your plant is growing before you get the secateurs out.

"For most UK gardens, the right moment is late February into March, but the real cue is when the buds are swelling and glossy, yet before the shoots start to extend. That timing aligns with the plant’s physiology: stored carbohydrates are intact, sap flow is rising, and cuts seal quickly without inviting dieback," starts Dr Russell Sharp, plant scientist and Founder of Eutrema.

"If a hard frost is still in the forecast, wait until the cold snap passes, whereas in mild coastal spots, you can often start in late February. Repeat‑flowering shrub, floribunda, hybrid tea and modern climber roses respond best to this late‑winter prune, while once‑blooming ramblers and many old garden roses should be pruned immediately after flowering in late spring or summer to preserve their next season’s buds," he adds.

What are the common mistakes when pruning?

There are so many common winter gardening mistakes you can fall victim to, and pruning is just one task that is filled with pitfalls.

"Common problems start with timing or with cuts that don’t respect the bud direction and the plant’s wound response. Pruning too early in deep cold invites dieback, while pruning after vigorous spring growth forces the plant to waste stored energy on shoots you then remove," starts Dr Russell.

"Cutting above inward‑facing buds creates a congested canopy and a disease‑prone centre; instead, cut to an outward‑facing bud and make a clean, slight slope 5–7 mm above it," he continues.

Dr Russell also warns against leaving long stubs or making flat, ragged cuts, as this can slow sealing and harbour moisture. This is why he suggests using sharp, clean bypass secateurs and disinfecting them between plants to avoid spreading diseases.

"Missing renewal pruning is another issue, so each year, take out a few of the oldest, unproductive canes at the base, remove dead, diseased and crossing wood first, and strip out any graft suckers from below the union," adds Dr Russell.

If you really want to see your roses thrive, using potatoes is a fabulous way to help retain moisture, who knew? Explore our expert's potato hack to grow roses from hardwood cutting to get the most out of this natural nutrient additive and watch your roses look better than ever.

Whilst you may be chomping at the bit to get started tidying up and prepping your plants this New Year, the gardening experts are here to tell you to be careful with your shears before you prune something you shouldn't.

Not all plants should be pruned in January. In the same way that several plants should never be deadheaded, many species shouldn't be pruned in autumn and winter. Premature pruning can cause your garden and the plants growing in it a lot of damage in the long term, especially when it's done during colder seasons.

So, before you start sorting your garden out this month, we've consulted with experts on which plants you need to avoid pruning to achieve a well-earned stunning spring display.

5 plants you should never prune in January

It's no secret that pruning is one of the best ways to help your garden bloom throughout the seasons and can be the key to impressive growth. However, each plant will be on a different schedule so they'll benefit from pruning at different times of the year and with varying regularity.

To get you started this year on the right path, we chatted with some gardening experts to find out the plants you should avoid chopping to guarantee their health and growth.

1. Spring flowering shrubs

Spring is perhaps one of the most rewarding times to be a gardener, especially when you've perfectly timed when to plant your spring bulbs. Along with tulips and daffodils finally making an appearance, spring flowering shrubs will come to life too. That is if you don't prune them too early.

Graham Smith MCIHort, a gardening expert from LBS Horticulture says, "Spring flowering shrubs should only be pruned after they have finished flowering, not in winter. If they are pruned in January you may potentially be cutting off buds that would flower in spring."

These types of shrubs consist of forsythia, rhododendrons, camellia and other colourful species.

2. Some deciduous trees

Whether you inherited some impressive trees when buying your home or have chosen to plant them as one of the best plants for privacy, some species will need to be left alone for the time being.

"Certain types of deciduous trees are known as 'bleeder' trees as they will 'bleed' a large amount of sap after pruning. These trees should not be pruned in January, as the bleeding sap will weaken the tree and attract insects that may be carrying diseases or fungal spores," explains Graham.

He explains that the trees in this group include maples, birch, elm and walnut.

3. Stone fruits

Surprisingly some fruit tree species belong on the list of plants to prune in January, apples and pears being just two of them. However, when it comes to stone fruit specifically it's a bit of a different story.

Graham explains this difference, saying, "Although many fruit trees can be pruned in winter, you should not prune stone fruit trees. Stone fruit trees should be pruned in the summertime, as this will reduce the risk of diseases such as silver leaf."

According to Graham, silver leaf is a potentially deadly fungal disease that can enter the tree through pruning wounds, and the spores are often more common in winter.

4. Woody herbs

If you mastered how to care for a lavender plant outdoors last summer then you'll probably be wondering when it needs to be tended to during winter. Lavender, along with other woody herbs, is a plant that will be at a major disadvantage should you prune it this month.

James Ewens, wildlife and garden expert at Green Feathers says, "Herbs with thick, woody stems, such as lavender, sage, and rosemary, also shouldn’t be pruned, with any cuts that are made being very susceptible to cold temperatures."

These herbs should only be pruned before they show new growth in the early spring, or even during the late summer period. James says pruning these plants after they've flowered will set them up well for the next growing season. Knowing how to overwinter your lavender will ensure your garden looks and smells just as good come summer.

5. Evergreen shrubs

Filling your garden with some of the most alluring plants like evergreen shrubs will ensure your outdoor space always looks full. Even in winter many evergreen shrubs will hold their shape and keep their vibrant green colour. For this reason, you mustn't prune them too early.

James says, "Evergreen shrubs don’t store any energy in their roots and therefore need to continually produce food throughout the year. By pruning evergreen shrubs in winter, they won’t have any energy stored to fuel regrowth, and the newly exposed branch ends up being susceptible to damage from frost. Instead, prune these plants mid-spring before the new growth season begins."

Shop winter gardening tool essentials

FAQS

Can you cut back plants in January?

Although there are several plants you shouldn't be pruning this month there are some that will benefit from a healthy snip.

Graham explains, "Some plants can be cut back in January, such as ornamental vines, grapevines, autumn-fruiting raspberries and roses. Cutting back certain plants in January will help to ensure fruit trees are productive and that shrubs will not outgrow their space when they are no longer dormant."

Not only does it help with their growth, Graham also points out that due to the colder conditions, most leaves will have fallen off making it easier to see your plant's framework when pruning. He adds, " During January, a lot of plants are also dormant, so it is the ideal time to cut back plants that are becoming unproductive or to control the spread of disease."

When you're outside this winter it's important to check on your plants that need protecting from the frost. Although it's recommended you start this process in the late autumn, some of your fleeces or cloches may need tending to or replacing so it's a good idea to regularly look in on them.

As the seasons change so do the jobs we need to get done in the garden. With autumn and the run-up to winter, your plants will need a little more TLC but some of them will benefit from being alone.

Just as there are plants you should never prune in summer, autumn and winter come with their own rules too. Along with protecting your plants from frost this season, you'll have to make sure your plants are given the best chance against the drop in temperature.

While you might think giving your plants a healthy chop is good for them some plants will become too vulnerable if pruned or deadheaded in autumn. We asked the experts which plants you should never deadhead this time of year and here's what they said.

Plants you should never prune in autumn

There are a lot of jobs to be done in your garden through the autumn months, from protecting your space from heavy rain to flooding vulnerable plants before you bring them inside for shelter.

Another job is deadheading your plants properly, but it's important to know which of your plants actually need it. To ensure you don't chop any vulnerable species we spoke to gardening experts to find out which plants should be left alone this season.

1. Rhododendrons

You may know that you should deadhead your rhododendron in the late spring when its flowers are spent the same doesn't apply for the autumn and winter time.

"As rhododendrons grow their flowers on old wood, you should not prune them in autumn," warns Graham Smith MCIHort, a gardening expert from LBS Horticulture. "If you think that your rhododendron could benefit from being cut back, you should only do this in spring after it has finished blooming. However, dead wood or foliage can be removed from the plant at any time."

2. Forsythia

Forsythia is one of the many plants experts recommend planting in February, however, when it comes to pruning them you might want to hold off this season.

"You may find that you often need to cut back forsythia, as it is a fast-growing plant. However, it is best to wait until spring to do this once all of the flowers have finished blooming," explains Graham.

He goes on to warn that pruning a forsythia in autumn can affect the plant, and it may not produce as many flowers the next year.

3. Roses

Whether you're taking cuttings from roses or pruning roses for maximum blooming, this plant is usually one we'd put on our deadheading list. However, there are some risks that come with pruning this plant during the cold season.

"Deadheading and pruning roses in autumn can encourage tender new growth, which is highly susceptible to frost damage," says Petar Ivanov, a gardening expert from Fantastic Gardeners. "The best time for pruning most roses is in late winter or early spring."

So whilst it will help your plant in some seasons it's best to leave them for now.

4. Hydrangeas

It's no secret that deadheading your hydrangeas and keeping them pruned can be really beneficial for the plant. And yet, similar to rose bushes when it comes to the autumnal period, you might want to put the shears down.

"Pruning hydrangeas in autumn can remove buds that will flower in the next growing season. Leave these until after they flower in summer," says Petar.

Autumn is the time you should plant hydrangeas just make sure it's earlier you do it in the season rather than closer to winter time.

5. Evergreens

As some of the best plants for privacy, you'll no doubt have a few shrubs in your garden and their growth can be damaged should you prune them in autumn months.

Graham says, "The best time to trim evergreen shrubs in your garden is either in early spring or late summer. Pruning these plants during autumn can encourage them to produce new growth, but this growth is easily damaged by frost and can affect the hardness of the plant."

He also points out that evergreens don't store food in their roots like other plants do, so pruning in autumn can lead to them struggling to produce the energy that they need to survive until springtime.

6. Fruit trees

Fruit trees belong on the plants to prune in January and even then it's only apple and pear trees that should be snipped. Otherwise, it's best to leave them be.

"Fruit trees should generally be pruned during winter when they have gone dormant, and stone fruit trees are best pruned in summer. Pruning fruit trees in autumn means that you may be removing the flower buds that the trees set, which will affect the size of their harvest the following year," explains Graham.

7. Lilacs

Last but not least are the wonderfully coloured lilacs. Knowing when to prune lilacs is extremely important to ensure a stunning bloom full of frothy purple flowers.

Graham says, "As lilacs are a spring flowering shrub, they should not be pruned in autumn. Similarly to rhododendrons, they will develop the buds that will become flowers in autumn."

Pruning them during the autumn season can mean you potentially get rid of future blooms and so are setting the plant up to have a disappointing display or no flowers at all.

FAQs

What month is the best to cut back plants and why?

Unless you're embracing the rewilding trend you'll no doubt want to keep on top of cutting back your plants and keeping your garden maintained. A general timeline can be hard to establish when plants all have varied needs but Luke Dejahang, gardening expert and CEO of Crown Pavilions says there is an ideal month.

"The best month to cut back plants often depends on the type of plant and its growth cycle. Generally, August is considered a good month for pruning many plants because their growth starts to slow down, allowing cuts to heal before the colder weather sets in," he explains.

On the other hand, when it comes to perennials, spring is often the best time to cut back as it allows the plants to provide a habitat for wildlife over the winter.

Should I cut back plants in the winter and why?

Deadheading is one of the many ways to help your garden bloom throughout the seasons and winter can be a great time to do it. Of course, this only applies to certain plants.

Luke explains, "Cutting back certain plants in winter can be beneficial. During winter, many plants are dormant, making it easier to identify and remove dead parts, so cutting back and pruning encourages new growth. It also helps to maintain plant health and prevent the spread of diseases."

It is important though to know which plants shouldn't be pruned in winter. Luke says, "For example, avoid pruning plums and related species during winter to prevent the spread of silver-leaf disease."

Autumn and winter gardening essentials

Whilst there's much to do outside this season it's key to make sure you're adapting your houseplant care in winter, just because they're inside doesn't mean their environment doesn't change.

With their evergreen appeal and rapid growth, it's little wonder that conifers are such a popular choice for hedges. That being said, though, they do need to be trimmed regularly if you want them to look their best – so how do you prune conifer hedges like a pro?

One of those plants you should prune in September, conifer hedges come in several varieties, including leylandii, Lawson cypress, and Monterey cypress.

Whichever graces your garden, though, they will need regular pruning to keep them looking smart (not to mention maintain your best plants’ health).

As ever, there's no point grabbing a pair of loppers and hacking away at your beloved bushes; there's a right way and a wrong way to prune conifer hedges, which is why it's best to consult the experts.

How to prune conifer hedges

"Pruning conifer hedges in the UK is essential for keeping them healthy, compact, and looking tidy," says Christopher O'Donoghue, one of the co-directors at Gardens Revived.

"Regular trimming will also help prevent the hedge from growing too large, which can become problematic with fast-growing conifers like Leylandii," he adds.

What you will need

If you want to make sure yours are the best privacy plants, you need to learn how to prune conifer hedges like a pro – which means you'll want to arm yourself with the correct tools.

"Don't forget to wear gloves and eye protection, especially if using power tools," cautions Christopher.

To that end, then, you'll want to get hold of...

• Hedge trimmers
• Secateurs
• Loppers
• Ladder: Try an Aluminium Step Ladder from Amazon for reaching the top of taller hedges.

Step-by-step guide:

Once you have your tools to hand, it's time to learn how to prune conifer hedges so they look lush and trim.

Thankfully, much like learning how to deadhead plants, it couldn't be easier, thanks to our expert advice...

1. Choose the correct time

As is so often the case with gardening, it's not just a case of learning how to prune conifer hedges; it's important to know when to tackle the job, too.

“The best time to prune conifer hedges is from spring until late summer,” says Christopher, who says August/September is usually the cut-off point for this as pruning during colder months can expose the plant to frost damage.

"The new growth (called 'candles') will have started to harden, and pruning during this period will encourage denser growth."

2. Aim for a tapered shape

Whatever variety of conifer hedge you're working with, it's best to always trim it so that it is slightly wider at the base than the top.

"This helps ensure that sunlight can reach the lower branches, preventing them from becoming bare," explains Christopher.

3. Begin pruning in earnest

If you're not sure how to prune conifer hedges, it's best to begin by trimming the new growth on the sides and top of the hedge.

'Only remove about 1/3 of the new growth to maintain the hedge's shape,' says Christopher, who notes that it's vital you step back regularly to view your progress and ensure the hedge remains even and symmetrical.

"It's better to prune little and often rather than a heavy, infrequent cut. Regular, light pruning encourages healthy growth and keeps the hedge dense."

4. Remove dead and diseased branches

Just as is the case with pruning roses, you should cut any dead, damaged, or diseased branches back to the nearest healthy growth.

"Avoid cutting into old wood on many conifer species, as they don’t regrow from these areas," warns Christopher.

5. And on that note...

When learning how to prune conifer hedges, take care not to cut back into brown or old wood and stay in the green.

"Conifer hedges like Leylandii and most others will not regrow from old, brown wood," says Christopher, "so always prune only the green, younger growth, as cutting into old wood can leave permanent gaps in the hedge."

6. Get shaping

If you want to learn how to prune conifer hedges like a pro, you need to focus on shaping the top and sides.

"For a more formal look, trim the top of the hedge flat. Use a string line as a guide if you need help keeping it level," says Christopher. "For an informal look or in regions with heavy snowfall, a gently rounded top may be more suitable, as it allows snow to slide off."

He adds that you should work in sections on the sides, trimming them from the bottom up and keeping your cuts even and smooth.

7. Show it some love

While you should leave grass clippings on your lawn, the same is not true of conifer clippings around your hedge, as they can promote pest and disease build-up. Compost them, then, if you can.

Once that's done, Christopher advises you "give your hedge a good watering after pruning to help it recover and promote new growth".

"Apply a layer of mulch around the base to retain moisture and protect the roots," he adds.

FAQs

When should conifer hedges be trimmed?

If you're wondering when conifer hedges should be pruned, it's best to avoid late autumn and winter.

"If you do, the cuts won’t have time to heal before the cold weather hits," says Christopher O'Donoghue of Gardens Revived.

Instead, aim to prune your conifer hedges between the late spring and the end of the summer, with September as your absolute cut-off point.

"Before pruning, check for bird nests, as it is an offence under the Wildlife & Countryside Act 1981, to damage or destroy the nest of any wild bird while it is in use or being built," caution Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) experts.

How do you reduce the height of a conifer hedge?

If you want to reduce the height of a conifer hedge, you can do so by up to 1/3 in April, taking care to focus your attention on unsightly side branches.

"Fast-growing conifers like Leylandii should be trimmed at least once a year to prevent them from becoming too large. Twice a year may be necessary for faster growth," says Christopher O'Donoghue of Gardens Revived, who adds that you should never cut back too hard.

"Avoid cutting back into brown, old wood, as your hedges will not regenerate from this, leaving bare patches."

Now that you know how to prune conifer hedges like a pro, you can run and get your loppers. After all, you'll need to be quick if you want it done before winter hits...

This month might feel like a 30-day-long goodbye to summer, but that doesn't mean you should be neglecting your garden – especially when it comes to pruning and cutting back plants ready for the autumn days ahead of us. Say hello, then, to the plants you should prune in September.

From pruning roses and lavender to learning how to deadhead plants properly, it's important to set to work with your shears when a plant's time has passed and it's ready for its next season.

That's why, if you want to keep your outdoor space looking its beautiful best, you need to set up a schedule for pruning and maintenance – tending to the plants you avoid pruning in summer. Because of this September is one of those months you will want to pay extra attention to, as there are a fair few plants that will need cutting back before the colder days settle in...

5 plants you should prune in September

We imagine that, like most proud gardeners, you've likely filled your little oasis with the best garden plants you can – and that you feel a little... well, a little sad about taking your shears to them now summer is ebbing away. Pruning, however, is the best way to a) boost their growth and b) keep them looking spick-and-span.

"In the UK, September is a great time to cut back and prune certain plants and shrubs as the growing season slows down," says Christopher O'Donoghue, co-director at Gardens Revived, who adds that it's his favourite way to prep his plants for winter.

"Whatever you're pruning, be sure to always use clean, sharp tools to prevent disease spread," he adds.

With that in mind, here are 5 key plants you should prune in September...

1. Lavender

If you're lucky enough to have a garden filled with the sweet perfume of purple lavender, it's important to know how to care for a lavender plant, remembering to stick it on your list of plants to prune in September (or whenever the flowers start to fade).

"Cut back hard to a good compact shape but be sure to leave some new shoots on each stem – lavender will often not regrow from bare wood," advises Monty Don via his popular gardening blog.

"These new shoots will grow fast and provide an attractive and healthy cover to protect the plant in winter and provide the basis of next year’s display."

2. Herbaceous perennials

From delphiniums and geraniums right through to hostas, Christopher counts herbaceous perennials among the plants to prune in September.

"You'll want to cut back dead or dying foliage and stems, and tidy them up as they begin to die back for the winter," he explains.

Don't be afraid to give these plants a good hard trim, taking them right down to the ground if needs be – the main thing you need to preserve, after all, is the crown (base of the plant), which will remain dormant over winter ready to produce fresh shoots come springtime.

"You can leave the ones with decorative seedheads in place for wildlife to enjoy, though," adds Christopher.

3. Shrub roses

One of the most alluring plants around, Christopher says that September is the best time to tidy up your shrub roses and encourage them to focus on strong, healthy growth for next season.

However, while he suggests a 'light prune and deadhead', Monty Don states that you should "not worry about the position or angle of the cuts but clip away all long, straggly shoots as though you were trimming a hedge, leave a compact, slightly domed bush that is about two-thirds of its former size".

4. Summer-fruiting raspberries

Anyone who has started vegetable gardening for beginners will likely have branched out (ha!) into fruits as well at some point – and raspberries, being among the easiest to grow, are usually at the top of most people's 'Grow Your Own' list.

Here's the thing, though; summer-fruiting raspberries are among the plants you should prune in September (along with other soft and bush fruits like blackcurrants, gooseberries and redcurrants).

'Cut back the old fruiting canes that have fruited this year, leaving the new ones to develop for next year’s crop,' advises Christopher, who says this is the best way to encourage next year's fruit and keep the plant healthy.

It's a good idea, then, to tie the remaining canes to some support, such as this MRGARDEN Raspberry Trellis and Stake Vineyard Trellis from Amazon.

5. Yew hedges

As per the RHS, a yew hedge can grow vigorously – up to 30cm a year. To that end, then, it's vital you prune it at least once a year, and early autumn is an ideal time to do it if you want it to look crisp and fresh for the colder months ahead.

"The idea is to give it a final trim before winter," says Christopher. "Go in with the aim of maintaining the hedge’s shape and preventing it from becoming overgrown before the dormant season."

Just be sure to check your hedge before you set to work, and delay if you find an active nest (it is a criminal offence to disturb nesting birds). And, of course, be sure to wear protective gardening gloves as yew is highly poisonous.

We recommend picking up a pair of WESTWOOD FOX Gardening Gloves from Amazon.

6. Jasmine

Much like deciduous honeysuckles and passion flowers, jasmine is one of those climbing plants you should prune in September – ideally just after they've finished flowering.

As well as thinning out any overcrowded or damaged shoots, the RHS advises that you 'cut back flowered stems to a strong side-shoot lower down' to give new growth time to mature and flower early next season.

FAQs

What plants need pruning in September?

If you want to know what plants need pruning in September, aim your pruning shears at the following:

• Lavender and other Mediterranean shrubs (such as rosemary)
• Yew and other evergreen hedges (such as cypress and box)
• Raspberries and other soft or bush fruits (such as blackcurrants and redcurrants)
• Shrub roses
• Herbaceous perennials (such as delphiniums, geraniums, and hostas)
• Jasmine, common honeysuckle, and passion flower

"It’s important not to prune too late into autumn, as fresh growth stimulated by pruning might not have time to harden before the first frosts," advises Christopher O'Donoghue of Gardens Revived.

Is it okay to trim hedges in September?

If you're wondering if it's okay to trim hedges in September, there are two things to consider; are there any signs of nesting birds, and what kind of hedge is it?

It is, of course, an offence to disturb birds that are nesting, so if you find your hedge has become home to a family of feathered critters, pop your shears down and wait until they've vacated the area.

Once that's been established, yew and other evergreen hedges (such as cypress and box) will benefit from being pruned in September and early autumn.

"Always take out any dead, diseased, or damaged wood to promote the health of the plant," says Christopher O'Donoghue of Gardens Revived.

Now that you know the plants you should prune in September, it's time to set to work trimming and tidying everything up ready for the next big season to protect your plants from frost.

You'll be glad you put the work in once the first frosts roll around, trust us...

Knowing when to prune rosemary, and how exactly to go about it, is important if you're growing it in your garden. A regular trim prevents these flowering shrubs from becoming unruly. But, with the wrong timing and technique, you may risk damaging your plant.

Growing rosemary fits alongside the vegetable garden trend perfectly, as the evergreen herb is a versatile ingredient in the kitchen. It also works beautifully in a Mediterranean-style garden, and the blue (or sometimes pink) spring flowers are a magnet for bees.

Pruning keeps rosemary looking tidy, but don't start snipping away at it with wild abandon. Just like when pruning hydrangeas, a bit of know-how and some good quality tools are needed. Below, the experts share their tips to help you get the best results, including the key mistakes to avoid.

How and when to prune rosemary, according to gardening professionals

Don't forget that healthy rosemary cuttings can be used fresh or dried in a myriad of recipes, from roast potatoes to homemade bread. You can even use a sprig to garnish a low-calorie cocktail.

When to prune rosemary

In terms of when to prune rosemary, Craig Wilson of Gardener's Dream recommends late spring or early summer, just after it flowers. This gives new growth plenty of time to establish before frosts set in later in the year. Not only this, but he notes how the cuttings have the best flavour at this time if you plan to use them in the kitchen.

If you miss this window and want to trim it back later in the growing season, aim to do so at least six weeks before winter weather sets in.

The time of day matters, too. The Crocus plant doctor recommends ticking off the task in the morning, "when the plant is well-hydrated and the sun is less intense." This is also a good time to prune tomatoes after they've been watered.

How to prune rosemary

Claire Hooper of Hillier Garden Centres recommends cutting rosemary back by around a third. This is similar to pruning roses.

She suggests focusing on cutting back the tips of the branches, aiming to keep the overall shape bushy and rounded. Avoid cutting into the woody, leafless stems. Any dead or diseased parts also need to be removed to help the plant focus its energy into the healthy growth, she adds.

Top tip: The Crocus plant doctor recommends making cuts just above a leaf node or a set of leaves. "This encourages new growth from that point."

FAQs

What tools should you use to prune rosemary?

High-quality tools make pruning rosemary a breeze. We love the look of these Niwaki mini shears from Crocus for larger shrubs. A pair of secateurs are perfect for smaller plants and can be used for deadheading plants, too.

Craig says, "Just make sure to avoid using anything blunt that might cause damage to the plant. Also, don’t forget to clean your tools before and after pruning to prevent any contamination."

Before you start, you may also want to pop on a pair of gardening gloves, such as these ones from Sarah Raven, and invest in a tub, such as this 42-litre one from Crocus, to collect the clippings up neatly.

What are some common mistakes to avoid when pruning rosemary?

Be careful not to prune too much of your rosemary at once, as Craig warns this can impact the chance of it growing back. "It’s best to stick to only trimming about a third of the way down to avoid stunted growth." Keep this gardening tip in mind when pruning lavender in springtime, too.

The team at Wilkinson Sword Tools also advise against pruning during extreme temperatures (either too hot or too cold). Some other garden jobs should also be avoided during these conditions: cutting grass in the heat can be problematic, for instance.

My rosemary is very leggy – can I prune it back hard?

Cutting rosemary back hard can be risky, so it's generally recommended to replace very leggy and woody shrubs instead. For a low-cost option, consider propagating new plants from cuttings. For a quicker solution, rosemary plants are available from Crocus.

Herbs are the perfect way to increase the sensory appeal of a garden, but to give your interior a boost, why not learn how to grow herbs indoors, too? Our guide is full of simple tips to help you try it.

One of our most beloved climbing plants, there's nothing quite so summery as the drifting scent of honeysuckle. Though with its twining stems and trumpet-like blooms, it's key to master how to prune honeysuckle so it looks its best.

That's right: just as you ought to learn how to prune roses, the same is true of this classic cottage garden plant. Because, while it's tempting to leave these rustic charmers to their own devices, a good prune is the best way to maintain one of your best plants’ health. 

The trick, of course, is to prune honeysuckle annually to keep them happy and thriving – not to mention their growth under control. Before you grab your shears and get snipping, though, it's best to take some advice from the experts...

How to prune honeysuckle

"The most important thing to know when pruning honeysuckle is which type you have," explains Morris Hankinson, director of Hopes Grove Nurseries.

Not all honeysuckle plants are alike; in fact, there are approximately 200 species of this fragrant garden plant, which is why it's so important that you identify which variety you're growing before you even think about learning how to prune honeysuckle.

So, what's the easiest way to go about this? 

"Pay close attention to when your honeysuckle flowers so you know how to care for it," advises Morris, who notes that, much like pruning magnolia, there are evergreen and deciduous honeysuckle varieties (which drop all of their leaves in autumn).

What you will need

While some plants require a lot of tools for their annual pruning, you won't need much to keep your honeysuckle looking spick and span.

"A pair of clean, sharp secateurs are usually enough, but if you do have a large honeysuckle, you may need to use shears or a hedge trimmer," says Morris.

Step-by-step guide:

Once you have your tools to hand, it's time to learn how to prune a honeysuckle like a pro. And, thankfully for green gardeners everywhere, it's a pretty effortless task once you've swotted up on all the expert advice...

How to prune a winter-flowering honeysuckle

Winter-flowering honeysuckle are shrubby and provide scent during the colder months of the year, making them an excellent addition to your outdoor space if you fancy having something lovely to look at all year round. 

"These should be pruned after they have finished flowering which will be in early spring," says Morris. 

"Trim back crossing or leggy shoots with sharp secateurs, and improve structure and airflow by trimming out crossing branches, dead, diseased or damaged stems. There is very little else needed."

How to prune a summer-flowering honeysuckle

"Summer-flowering honeysuckle can be wonderfully fragrant in the warmer months of the year and can be lightly pruned later in summer when they have finished flowering," says Morris. 

Noting that you can cut back flowered shoots by one-third, he adds that the aim is to "trim dead, damaged or diseased stems and thin areas in the centre of the plant to allow better airflow".

FAQs

When should honeysuckle be pruned?

If you're wondering when honeysuckle should be pruned, the best course of action is to pay attention to when your plant blooms, and set to work trimming yours back after the flowering season. 

If you want to renovate the plant entirely, the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) advises you wait until late winter, when the plant is in its dormant phase, to "cut back all of the stems to a height of 60cm (2ft)".

"It will respond with plenty of new shoots," promises the RHS team.

How do you prune overgrown evergreen honeysuckle?

If you're wondering how to prune an overgrown evergreen honeysuckle, you should opt for a restorative prune in late winter. However, the best defence is a good offence, according to most experts.

"You may need to lightly trim it twice a year in spring and in autumn, and never when birds are nesting," says Morris Hankinson of Hopes Grove Nurseries.

Now that you know how to prune honeysuckle, you can sit back and enjoy it in all its beauty, safe in the knowledge that you only have to trim it back lightly once every year. That's our kind of low-maintenance plant, quite frankly.

Knowing how to prune tomato plants is worthwhile when growing these tasty fruits. However, the right approach depends on the type of tomato you’re growing.

The two main groups of tomatoes are cordon (sometimes called indeterminate) and bush (or determinate). The former grow tall, while the latter are better for compact spaces and container garden trends. 

Cordon tomatoes are the ones that benefit the most from a trim, as it keeps their size under control and encourages better yields. Bush tomatoes, on the other hand, can be more or less left to their own devices.

For advice on this summer garden job, I turned to the gardening experts. Below, they reveal their top tips, including recommended timings and tools.

How to prune tomato plants, according to gardening pros

Follow these easy gardening tips on how to prune tomato plants for the best results from your summer crop.

How to prune cordon tomatoes

Cordon tomatoes are usually grown on a tall, single stem. Examples of this type include “Shirley”, available from Crocus, and “Ildi”, from Thompson & Morgan – a yellow, cherry variety.

Nelly Hall, the brand director at Alitex, says cordon tomatoes are continuous growers that can reach impressive heights if not managed properly. “Regular pruning is essential here,” she says.

She explains how removing the suckers prevents the plant from becoming too bushy and directs its energy towards producing fruit. “This also helps improve air circulation and helps reduce the risk of disease," she adds.

The technique for this is simple: according to Pim Dickson of Mr Fothergill's Seeds Limited, all you need to do is remove the little shoots that appear in the crook above where a leaf joins the main central stem.

“When an indeterminate tomato is tall enough and fills the space you want, you can then pinch out the growing tip, so it grows no taller,” Pim continues. “Usually this is when six to seven trusses of fruit have started to set.”

Lower leaves that have turned yellow can also be removed as the crop matures, Pim adds. “This will help fruit ripen and reduce the chance of disease from dying leaves.”

There are other benefits to pruning these tomatoes, too. Petar Ivanov, a gardening expert at Fantastic Services, highlights how it makes it easier to see and pick the tomatoes and reduces hiding places for pests.

Top tip: As well as pruning, these plants need support. If you're using soft twine, consider Sarah Raven's advice on tying in climbing plants. We also like the look of this adjustable tomato crop booster frame from Crocus.

How to prune bush tomatoes

Nelly explains that bush tomatoes grow to a certain size, set fruit, and then stop growing. This makes them easier to care for, and perfect for small gardens.

“Because they have a set growth pattern, they require little to no pruning," she says. Her advice is to simply trim away the bottom leaves to prevent them from touching the ground beneath.

Examples of bush tomatoes include “Red Alert” from Crocus, a sweet-tasting cherry variety. Meanwhile, a favourite variety of Nelly’s is “Veranda Red” (available from Thompson & Morgan). They are a beautiful addition to summer salads, she says, and can be grown on greenhouse benching due to their relatively compact size.

Top tip: Pim notes how larger types of bush tomatoes only need support if the trusses of fruit get too heavy.

FAQs

What tools should you use to prune tomatoes?

Now you know the techniques for how to prune tomato plants, you may be wondering which tools to use.

Petar recommends using sharp, clean pruning shears to make clean cuts without damaging the plant. These essential garden tools will also come in handy when deadheading other plants in your plot. “Garden scissors will help you with smaller and more delicate cuts,” he adds.

You can also pinch out smaller side shoots with your fingers, notes Nelly. 

“Make sure to wear gloves to protect your hands from the plant’s sap, which can cause skin irritation,” Petar notes. These gardening gloves from Sarah Raven are machine washable, with different sizes available.

When should you prune tomatoes?

Nelly recommends pruning indeterminate tomato plants every couple of weeks for bigger, juicier fruits. She also advises carrying out the task first thing in the morning, after watering the plants.

Petar adds: “If the plant looks stressed or unhealthy, reduce the amount of pruning to avoid further stress.”

Looking for more tips on growing your own delicious crops? Our guide on vegetable gardening for beginners has plenty of practical advice.

The highlight of the gardening calendar, there's nothing quite like the sight of a magnolia tree in full bloom frothing with large, opulent flowers in pink or white. 

To ensure magnolia flourishes it's a good idea to show these gorgeous shrubs and trees the respect they deserve. When, then, and how should you prune magnolia for tip-top results?

That's right: just as you need to know when to prune lilac and pruning roses, so the same is true of your picture-perfect magnolia, which has remained one of the UK's most enduring garden trends ever since Henry Compton, the Bishop of London, was gifted one from the USA in 1687.

With some 300 varieties of magnolia to fall in love with, of course, it's worth doing your research before you whip out a pair of loppers and get to work – especially if you want to maintain one of your best plants’ health. 

How to prune a magnolia tree or shrub

"It’s important to know which type of magnolia you are growing to ascertain when and how to prune it," explains Morris Hankinson, director of Hopes Grove Nurseries.

"There are evergreen and deciduous varieties (which drop all of their leaves in autumn), and each requires different care."

While evergreen magnolias require very little pruning (you simply want to remove any dead, damaged or diseased wood to keep them healthy, and perhaps do a little shaping if required), a bit more work is required of the deciduous variety.

What you will need

When it comes to gardening, it's always a good idea to make like a Scout and be prepared.

"You will need a pair of clean secateurs, as well as some loppers if you fancy tackling the higher and thicker stems," says Morris.

To that end, then, you should make sure you have the following close at hand:

Step-by-step guide:

Once you have everything you need to prune your magnolia tree, it's time to get started.  To help ensure you do a stellar job, though, cast your eyes downwards and check out what the experts have to advise first...

1) Choose the right moment

It's always important to prune your plants at the correct time, otherwise you can wind up doing more harm than good. Take note of the plants you should avoid pruning in summer.

"Deciduous magnolia trees should be pruned in late summer (usually July), because it reduces the amount they ‘bleed’ when cut, something which can cause infection and disease," explains Morris.

"Make sure the leaves are all fully open and be sure to have the job done by early autumn."

2) Assess the age

Unlike pruning wisteria, there is very minimal skill required when it comes to learning how to prune magnolia, although you will need to tweak what you're doing depending on the age of the shrub or tree.

How to prune a young magnolia tree:

"If you have a young magnolia, use sharp secateurs to cut out dead, diseased or damaged growth – anything that looks particularly weak," says Morris.

"Then, use a pruning saw to remove any bigger stems or branches that are crossing, ensuring a clean, sharp cut. 

How to prune a mature magnolia tree:

As well as ticking off all of the above, Morris says that, "If you have a mature Magnolia tree, you might see shoots that grow upwards called ‘watershoots’ which should also be removed so the tree doesn’t use up energy trying to grow shoots". 

"Cut these all the way back to the trunk," he says, cautioning gardeners to avoid giving their magnolia the same sort of hard prune they would when pruning buddleia. 

In fact, he says it’s best to avoid pruning established trees unless absolutely necessary (such as a need to limit the size of your tree).

"Don’t forget to water and mulch after pruning," he adds.

FAQs

When should magnolia trees be pruned?

Deciduous magnolia trees should only be pruned between mid-summer and early autumn (July is optimal), while evergreen varieties should be tackled in spring, as growth begins.

The exception to the rule? If you have a wall-trained evergreen magnolia, tackle the job in the summer, as per the advice offered by experts at the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS).

That being said, they suggest you "delay pruning until immediately after flowering" if the outward-growing shoots bear flower buds.

Can I cut the top off my magnolia tree?

It is rarely advisable to cut the top off a magnolia tree, as these shrubs and trees are prone to bleeding sap – something which isn't just unsightly, but a harbinger of ill health for your plant, too.

"Usually you will only need to prune out any dead, diseased or damaged wood of magnolia trees because they are very easy to maintain," promises Morris Hankinson of Hopes Grove Nurseries.

"Occasionally you may want to improve the shape, but this should be done over a few years rather than all in one go to reduce stress on the magnolia tree."

Now that you know how to prune magnolia – very minimally and rarely, essentially – you can get back to the very important job of gazing at yours in wonder and marvelling at its timeless beauty.

Hey, there's a reason these shrubs and trees can boost property value, after all.

It doesn't matter if you're doing it to boost your plant's growth or keep things tidy; pruning is one of those virtuous tasks that everyone knows is the hallmark of a good gardener... or is it? Well, as it turns out, there are 5 plants you should never prune in the summer. Ever.

From learning how to deadhead plants properly to mastering the pruning techniques needed for each individual specimen (think pruning roses and pruning lavender, to name just two), there's a fair amount of work and knowledge that goes into keeping a garden looking its utmost best.

It should come as little surprise to learn, then, that there are some hard and fast rules when it comes to pruning in particular – especially with regards to when you ought to be setting to work. 

Because, yes, pruning plants at the wrong time of year? Never a good idea...

5 plants you should never prune in summer

It doesn't matter if you're the proud owner of a modern garden, a cottage garden, or something else entirely; the chances are that, if you've been lovingly tending to an outdoor oasis of your own, it's filled with the very best garden plants you want to keep looking pristine.

Pruning them, however, may not be in your best interest – depending on what time of year it is, of course. In fact, there are 5 garden plants you should avoid pruning in the summer, according to experts.

1. Spring flowering plants

Easily some of the most striking plants around, it might be tempting to prune these acidic soil-loving favourites come summertime, but Morris Hankinson – aka the founder and managing director of Hopes Grove Nurseries – urges you to step away from your secateurs when it comes to plants such as Deciduous azaleas, rhododendrons and camellias.

"These spring flowering plants should be deadheaded immediately after they have flowered in spring," he says.

Noting that deciduous azaleas, rhododendrons and camellias form next year's buds from August onwards, Morris adds by way of warning: "If you were to prune in summer, you may not see any flowers the following spring."

2. Apple and pear trees

Counted among the key plants you should never prune in the summer, apples and pear trees ought to be left alone when the sun is high and the weather is warm.

"These should be pruned over winter, generally from November to March," says Morris, who notes that "pruning in the summer can cause stress, infection and disease". 

There is, however, a loophole to this rule; Morris says that trained fruit tress can be pruned in summer to maintain their shape.  

3. Hydrangea

Thinking about giving your hydrangea a prune this summer? Don't! 

Elaborating on when to prune hydrangea Morris cautions: "If you prune these beautiful plants in summer, it will limit their ability to flower." 

"Late winter to early spring is the best time to give them a tidy up – and preferably spring because the flower heads look fantastic with a sprinkling of frost over the winter months. "

4. Early flowering evergreen shrubs

If you're wondering which alluring plants you should never prune in the summer, be sure to steer clear of your early flowering evergreen shrubs, such as berberis, choisya, daphne and laurel. 

"Most evergreen shrubs can be pruned before growth begins in mid-springtime and always after the risk of all frost has passed," says Morris. 

"This means that new growth will hide where you have pruned. If they are still flowering, you can wait and prune just after they have finished."

5. Any summer flowering perennial

"This may seem obvious, but if your plant is going to flower in the summer – don’t prune it in the summer!" advises Morris.

"If you prune summer flowering perennials before they flower, some may not flower at all. And, if you prune them straight after flowering, you’ll be removing winter interest for your garden and food/shelter for insects over winter." Examples are phlox,  iris 'Titan's Glory', geraniums and delphiniums.

Anyone who's itching at the bit to give their summer perennials a trim, however, will be pleased to know that "there is a method called the ‘Chelsea Chop’ which is where you can prune up to a third of stems on a perennial plant near the end of May", to coincide with the RHS Chelsea Flower Show.

"This can promote healthy new growth and extend the flowering period," promises Morris.

FAQs

What plants should be pruned in summer?

While some plants should never be pruned over the summer months, there are plenty that will benefit from a tidy up at this time, including:

• Spring flowering shrubs, such as forsythia and pruning lilac
• Hedges and topiary, like leylandii and beech
• Climbers (think wisteria and jasmine)
• Rambling roses

It's also worth pruning tender plants that can be damaged by late frosts, including outdoor fuchsias, over the summer months.

What happens if you prune a shrub in summer?

If you're wondering what happens if you prune a shrub in summer, it's worth remembering that the answer will hinge upon the type of shrub. Pruning deciduous shrubs in the summertime, for example, will remove vital food reserves and damage their green leaves.

Evergreen shrubs, however, are best pruned after flowering – which can mean they actually need to be pruned in summer, depending on the variety.

Once you've made up your list of plants you should never prune in the summer, you have more than enough time. on your hands to set aside your loppers and serve yourself a cool iced beverage to make the most of your thoughtful garden shade idea instead.

We work hard on our gardens all year round, so we're owed a little downtime.

If the sight of those resplendent purple flowers in Netflix's Bridgerton has given you a serious case of 'wisteria hysteria', you're not alone. The climbing plant has seen a spike in Google searches ever since the premiere of season three. Still, while there's no denying it's a stunning addition to any home, you need to know how to prune wisteria (properly) if you want yours at its best.

One of the most alluring plants around, countless estate agents have gone on record to say that a well-tended wisteria can add up to £10,000 to a property's value – making it a smart investment for any homeowner, too.

As ever, though, this is one of those plants that needs more than a little TLC thrown its way if you want it to work its magic in your outdoor space. This means that, just as you must learn how to prune roses and how to prune clematis, the same is true of wisteria. 

Trust us: the sweet and musky perfume of these fragrant garden plants will be more than reward enough for your hard work...

How to prune wisteria: an expert guide

It doesn't matter if you plan on training your wisteria along a wall, fence, or pergola: yours will need regular pruning to keep its vigorous growth under control – not to mention boost its flowering potential. if left unkept this powerful plant can soon become one of the most invasive garden plants.

"The best times to prune wisteria in the UK are in July/August and January/February," says RHS-trained gardener Andrew O'Donoghue, co-founder of Gardens Revived. 

What you will need

Thankfully, this isn't one of those garden jobs that requires lots of tools; all you really need is a pair of sharp secateurs, a ladder (to help you get to those tricky-to-reach bits), and a pair of gardening gloves.

Step-by-step guide

If you want to know how to prune wisteria, it's actually a pretty simple task – so long as you take note of the time of year you're pruning. Your pruning techniques will differ, depending on the timing you set to work, so be sure to check out our expert guide on how to prune wisteria if you want to do your plant justice.

1. In summer

If you're keen to get to work pruning your wisteria in the summer, Andrew says you should focus your attention on the whippy green shoots you can see on the current year’s growth.

"You're aiming to cut these back to about 5-6 leaves from the main stem," he says, noting that this will help you to control growth and stop the plant putting all of its efforts into growing more shoots.

"You'll get far more flowers this way," he says, "and far less damage to your windows and gutters, too!"

2. In winter

If you truly want to make all of your How To Prune Wisteria 101 dreams a reality, you'll also need to prune yours in the winter, too.

"The trick is to wait until the plant is dormant," says Andrew, explaining it will be leafless at this point in its cycle. "Then, find those same shoots you cut back in the summer and prune them further to 2-3 buds from the main stem."

This, he promises, will do more than simply tidy up the plant; it'll also create more light and space, thus promoting "healthy blooms in the springtime".

FAQs

When should wisteria be pruned?

If you want to prune wisteria like a true gardening pro, you'll want to mark two dates on your calendar: one in the summer after flowering (July/August) and one in the winter when the plant is dormant (January/February). Pruning twice a year at these times should keep your climber looking its very best.

How to prune wisteria for maximum bloom?

You will need to prune your wisteria twice a year to maximise blooming; in the summer, the aim is to cut green, whippy shoots back to just five or six leaves. Then, come winter, you'll want to cut these same shoots back to just two buds (this is also the best time to cut back any unwanted or dead/damaged branches, too).

"Regular pruning maintains the plant's shape and ensures a beautiful display of flowers each year," says Andrew O'Donoghue of Gardens Revived.

"Just be sure to use clean, sharp tools to keep yours as healthy as possible."

Now that you know how to prune wisteria, you can set to work ensuring your house is the talk of the Ton – although, for the full Bridgerton effect, you'll want to trail some ivy up and around your home's visage, too.

Hey, if it's good enough for the viscountess, right?

With its soothing fragrance and vibrant purple flowers, it's little wonder that so many people are in love with lavender, but you need to know how to prune lavender if you want to keep this relaxing herb looking its picture-perfect best.

It's been said time and time again that caring for lavender and being around its scent reminds us to find calmness in every moment. And little wonder: after all, it's one of the most alluring plants around thanks to its abundance of therapeutic benefits.

Just as you need to learn how to prune roses and how to prune clematis to maximise blooming, though, the same is true of lavender.

It's also the best way to keep these fragrant garden plants from getting woody and leggy, so it's well worth doing the job properly, especially if you want it to look lovely in photos.

How to prune lavender: an expert guide

With its fabulous fragrance and rustic charm, lavender is completely at home among its fellow cottage garden plants – but it does need some TLC if you want it to look its best.

If your lavender looks particularly untidy or frost-damaged, it benefits from being given a prune in the early springtime. Otherwise, "It's best to prune lavender after flowering, either in later summer or early autumn," says RHS-trained gardener Andrew O'Donoghue, co-founder of Gardens Revived.

What you will need

Unlike avoiding multiple lawn care mistakes, you won't need an abundance of tools for this gardening job: all you really need is a pair of sharp (and clean) secateurs.

You might also like to have a bag to hand for your lavender cuttings, ready to transport them to your compost bin, and possibly a pair of gardening all-purpose gloves.

Step-by-step guide

Now you've got your gardening essentials at the ready, the next step is figuring out which variety you’re working with.

The options are:

• English lavender: a hardier variety that requires more pruning (usually in August or September)
• French lavender: a frost-hardy variety that requires a gentle prune and deadheading throughout the season (do not cut them back later than mid-September)

Once that's done, all that's left to do is the following...

1. In springtime

If you're tidying your lavender plants up in the springtime, Andrew says to prune back any dead or damaged stems and trim back about one-third of the plant into an even shape.

"Avoid cutting into the woody base," he adds, "and be sure to cut to just above a group of new shoots. Otherwise, your plant is unlikely to grow back."

2. In summer...

Come summertime, it's best to wait until after your plants have flowered before you get to work on making your How To Prune Lavender 101 dreams a reality. We'd recommend adding it to your essential summer jobs for later in the season.

"You'll want to remove any spent flowers and about 2.5cm of leaf growth," says Andrew.

"Again, be sure to deadhead throughout the growing season, and be sure to cut down to just above a new group of shoots."

Learning how to prune lavender isn't all hard work; it's actually an incredibly sensory experience, so long as you allow yourself the time to enjoy it. This is why they're such a great plant for sensory gardens; the fragrance coming off the plant is a real joy.

"Don’t forget to roll the flower heads removed in your hand for a fresh lavender smell," says Andrew.

FAQs

How do you prune lavender without killing it? 

If you want to prune lavender without killing it, the most important thing to do is make sure that you’re using sharp, clean secateurs; this ensures a clean cut and minimises the risk of disease.

Most gardening experts, too, will caution you to cut each branch on a downward diagonal, as this will stop rainwater from pooling in the wound and allow disease or rot to take hold.

Be sure to water your plant if needed, but be wary of overwatering: you’re about to enter the plant’s dormant season, so you don’t want to encourage it to grow or have it sit wet for a long time. Knowing how to water your garden plants properly through the changing seasons is so important for their long-term health.

When should lavender be pruned?

All lavender – whatever the variety – needs to be pruned annually if you want it to thrive. It’s best to tackle the job after the plant has finished flowering (usually in August or September), using a sharp pair of secateurs and taking care to cut back to just above a group of new shoots.

You can tidy the plant up and give it a shape, too. And don’t forget to deadhead – which means, for all the greener gardeners out there, remove the spent flowers – throughout the summer, too. But if you're lucky, your lavender plant should be joining your late summer flowers right to the end of the season.

What are the benefits of deadheading lavender?

There are a few good reasons you need to learn how to deadhead certain plants in your garden, and it's a really rewarding and easy task to do.

"Deadheading prolongs the flowering period. Just by removing spent blooms, you encourage the plant to produce more flowers, keeping your garden vibrant for longer," explains Luke Newnes, garden specialist and member of the Interior Squad at Hillarys.

He also points out that deadheading will help keep the plant neat, as it instantly refreshes the appearance.

"Taking off old flower stems also helps the plant focus on producing new shoots, which keeps it bushy and healthy. And if you’d rather not have lavender popping up all over the place, deadheading before seeds form is a good idea," adds Luke.

What happens if you don't deadhead lavender?

All that happens if you don't deadhead lavender is that it grows wild and can get out of control. It doesn't matter too much if you've let things get too out of control.

Lavender is extremely fast-growing and establishes quickly, so you can simply dig out the overgrown clumps and replace them with new plants if you want things looking spick-and-span fast.

Unlike some of the plants you should never deadhead, lavender is pretty low maintenance in the way that it won't be affected either way. It's more about appearance, and if you want to control its growth in a certain area of your garden.

Now that you know how to prune lavender, you can settle back and enjoy your perfumed blooms until summer is almost over – then, and only then, should you set to work tidying them up and trimming them back.

You might also want to learn how to overwinter your lavender plants so you can be guaranteed blooms come springtime next year.

There are key plants to prune in May to take advantage of optimum conditions to protect and preserve future buds. Marking the end of spring May is the ideal time to tend to perennials that are finishing flowering and plants that need pruning back to bloom better for the remainder of the year. 

To ready your garden trends for the summer ahead, cutting back certain plants now will encourage strong, fresh growth – it also helps to keep them in shape.

Much like planting grass seed at the ideal opportunity, these are essential gardening jobs that you'll be glad you've timed perfectly to enjoy more bountiful blooms and lush greenery all summer and preserve next year's displays.

We've identified four plants you should prune this month, to keep them looking their best - along with expert tips on how to trim each one more efficiently.

Priority plants to prune in May

"As a general rule, if a plant blooms before May, it's a good idea to prune after it's finished flowering - which is why now is a good time to deadhead tulips and daffodils," advises Christopher O'Donoghue of Gardens Revived.

Just ensure you know exactly what to do with daffodils after flowering and what to do with tulips after flowering because it's not as easy as merely pruning as standard. 

"Take care when pruning back shrubs and hedges, though, as many will be filled with nesting birds at this time of year," Christopher warns. "It's best to wait until after nesting season, which typically runs from March to August (but can vary based on species and local conditions).

"After this time you can trim back these plants over the late summer and winter months - especially as it is it is illegal to disturb or destroy the nest of any wild bird while it's in use or being built under the Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981."

Differing from the plants you prune in February and the plants you prune in March here are the plants Christopher goes on to identify as most significant to prune now,  before May is over and the summer months ensue.

1. Lavender

To make the most of the beautiful purple blooms all summer long experts say it's important to prune lavender by the end of this month – before it's too late.

"Lavender is well worth pruning at this time of year, so long as you don't chop off too much, as it will encourage better flowering over the summer by stimulating growth," Christopher explains. Aim to chop no more than a third off, only taking away from the very top of the stems where it appears more leggy.

"Not only will this help promote better flowering it will also help you achieve that popular rounded shape." Use a quality set of secateurs to ensure a clean, crisp cut.

The end of May into June is also the prime time to prune lilac for the same reason, because the buds which will flower next spring start to grow soon after the current flowers have completely died, therefore if pruning is left too late you risk ending up with less if any flowers the following year.

2. Clematis

Knowing when and how to prune clematis plants will depend on the variety you are growing. For example, "Early-flowering clematis should be pruned as soon as it's finished flowering, which is typically in May," Christopher explains.

It's a similar story when looking at pruning buddleia because there are several popular varieties and each method of pruning will differ depending on the flowering type.

"Cut your early-flowering clematis back depending on the size and shape you're after, then water and mulch it well."

3. Herbaceous Perennials

"You'll likely have heard of something called The Chelsea Chop (so dubbed because it coincides with the RHS Chelsea Flower Show), which calls for gardeners to extend the blooming period of herbaceous perennials like sedums, echinacea and heleniums," says Christopher

"Do so by using a sharp pair of secateurs to cut them back by about a third."

4. Bay trees

If you have resisted the temptation to prune already, as I had to do when faced with the issue of why my bay tree leaves were turning brown, now is the ideal time to tend to bay trees.

"Bay trees will benefit from a gentle prune this month," says Christopher, "so whip off any ground-level suckers and prune back to a healthy bud."

I will most definitely be taking this opportunity to remove the few remaining sad-looking branches to restore my bay tree to its former glory for the remainder of the year.

Tending to these crucial pruning jobs at the right time is the secret to ensuring more bountiful blooms ahead of next spring, following in similar footsteps as that of succession planting that provides a continuous growing pattern.

The same can be said for mastering what to do with bluebells and what to do with primrose once they've passed because these beloved perennial plants will deliver beautiful blooms next year too and with the right help they'll be even more spectacular.

The air is filled with the scent of lilac right now, as the beloved spring-flowering shrubs and trees everywhere are filled with frothy purple blooms. If you want to keep yours looking its very best, though, you have to learn to look after it properly – so when to prune lilac for tip-top results?

That's right: much like getting your hair trimmed to ensure it grows longer and thicker than ever, pruning is an essential step in maintaining your best plants’ health. And, if you want to keep your lilac from getting (shudder) leggy, you need to know exactly when to begin your pruning regimen, too.

We know, we know: it sounds like a lot of work, right? But, considering lilac has been one of the UK's most enduring garden trends since Edwardian times, it's well worth learning how to maximise its flowers and scent. We promise.

When to prune lilac

Just as it's important to know what to do with tulips and bluebells after flowering, the same is true of lilac – and, as you've likely guessed from the title of this piece, the answer is simple: get pruning!

"The timing of pruning is really important when it comes to lilac, because the buds which will flower next spring start to grow soon after the current flowers have completely died," explains Morris Hankinson, director of Hopes Grove Nurseries. "If pruning is left too late, you may end up with less if any flowers the following year," he cautions.

What you will need

As ever, it's always a good idea to gather the tools you need before you begin a big gardening job.

"You will need some clean secateurs when pruning your lilac, as well as some loppers for higher and thicker stems," says Morris.

To that end, then, you should make sure you have the following close at hand:

• A pair of gardening gloves
• A pair of secateurs
• A pair of bypass loppers

When to start the job

As mentioned already, the when is very important if you're keen to get pruning your lilac.

"As soon as you notice the flowers fading in late spring time, you will know it is time to get pruning," says Morris. 

"Depending on where you are based in the UK, this will be sometime between late April to early June."

Morris suggests that you start the same way you would when pruning roses: "start by deadheading the flowers with some clean, sharp secateurs and snip back to the first set of leaves under the faded flowerhead". 

"Next remove any straggly stems without any flowers that are sticking out or making the bush look untidy. These can be cut back to where you can see some nodes developing."

Finally, the gardening pro advises that you "remove any dead, diseased or crossing over stems to give the lilac good airflow and shape. Also if there are any suckers which grow out from near the base of the plant, these can usually be gently pulled up and potted to grow free lilac plants!"

Of course, if you want to do a hard prune on your lilac, it's worth adjusting your schedule a little. "If your lilac is very overgrown, you want to tackle this job when the plant is dormant – which will be over the winter," says Christopher O'Donoghue, one of the co-directors of Gardens Revived.

Noting that you can cut the whole plant back to around 1m above ground, similar to carrying out a hard prune when pruning buddleia. Christopher adds: "If your lilac is particularly large, you can repeat this process every winter or every other winter until the tree is a more manageable size."

FAQs

What month do you prune lilac bushes?

The best time to prune lilac is right after the flowers have faded in late spring or early summer – unless you need to do a hard prune on a very overgrown plant, that is.

If this is the case, tackle the job over winter when your lilac is dormant, like when asking when to prune hydrangeas, but be aware you will lose the flowers for at least one year. 

What happens if you don't prune lilacs?

"Syringa (Lilac) are stunning in spring with their recognisable flowers and fragrance, but they do need to be pruned to keep them in shape or they can get a bit wild! " says Morris.

"If wild isn’t what you are going for, pruning regularly will ultimately mean larger flowers all around the bush rather than just at the top of straggly stems which tends to happen if they are left unpruned."

Now that you know when to prune lilac, you can sit back and enjoy their fragranced blooms until they've completely faded.  But be sure to pick up a pair of secateurs once they're finished if you want your beautiful blooms looking their very best come next spring, a similar story of what to do with daffodils after flowering. 

Learning how to prune hydrangeas can seem complicated. But, once you know a few simple points, it’s easy. It’s a worthwhile task, too – giving them an annual trim will reward you with healthier, better-shaped shrubs that bloom profusely. 

As with pruning roses, correct timing and technique is important for success. Get it wrong, and you might end up with no flowers at all, which is no good for keeping up with the latest garden trends. 

To make it easier to carry out this outdoor task, we chatted with gardening experts, who share their top tips on pruning hydrangeas below. You’ll also find advice on how to prune hydrangeas in pots.

An expert guide on how to prune hydrangeas

Proper pruning will ensure your best plants thrive. Not only will it remove dead and diseased stems, but it will also encourage fresh growth and new blooms. Plus, it will keep their size under control – which is particularly prudent for these fast-growing shrubs.

What you will need

Whether cleaning a patio or mowing the lawn, proper tools for carrying out gardening jobs are essential. 

Hydrangeas are woody shrubs, so you’ll need the same sort of tools as you would to prune buddleia. This means, a sturdy pair of secateurs and potentially a pair of loppers. You’ll need a good pair of gardening gloves, too.

How to prune hydrangeas: a step-by-step guide

Different types of hydrangeas need different types of pruning, but don't let that deter you: it's simple once you know which variety yours is. 

1. Prepare your tools

Before you start snipping, ensure your tools are up to scratch. They need to be sharp and sanitised to prevent accidentally damaging your plant. A good gardening tip for cleaning them is to rub the blades with a cloth dampened with isopropyl alcohol, (available from Amazon).

2. Cut back your hydrangea, according to variety

Just like pruning clematis, the best way to prune your hydrangea depends on the variety. According to Pim Dickson, senior product manager at Mr Fothergill’s Seeds Limited, most commonly grown hydrangeas fall into two main groups. 

The first group includes Hydrangea paniculata, which produces its large, classically conical flowerheads in summer, Pim says. Hydrangea arborescens are also in this group. These varieties form their flower buds on new growth and can be hard-pruned in spring.

Garden designer Harriet Worsley says, “We mainly use Hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’ in our gardens – it’s big and blousy, with beautiful, greenish-white flowers.” In winter, the flowerheads, although dry and brown, still look good, and they provide useful upright structure in beds and borders, she says. 

In spring, it’s time to cut the stems back to just above a pair of buds, about two feet above the ground. “It might be a little daunting to do this, but it puts the strength back into the plant for the coming season and makes sure they produce strong stems and flowers in the following year.”

Pim adds, “Pruning can also be done less dramatically by just removing dead stems and any branches that cross over,” This will open the plants up and encourage healthy new growth while maintaining a permanent framework of a desired shape and size, he says.

You can approach the second group with a much lighter touch. These are the Hydrangea macrophylla varieties – the lacecaps and mopheads. “These flower in summer to late summer from buds developed during the previous summer and autumn on mature, ripening stems,” Pim explains.

For this second group, simply remove dead flowerheads, without removing the new buds below, and tidy up dead and old stems. If your plants have been damaged by colder climates, you can prune further back to a healthy bud, says Chris Bonnet, the founder of GardeningExpress.

“Plants can occasionally be shaped and thinned out a little by pruning about a quarter of the oldest and weakest stems back to a couple of leaf joints,” Pim says. “This will help to encourage healthy new growth and provide space for other stronger stems to thrive.” Hard pruning in spring is not appropriate for these types of hydrangea, as this would remove the flower buds, he adds.

Climbing hydrangeas are approached similarly. Gardening expert Sarah Raven says, to prune the wall-climbing variety petiolaris, shorten any branches growing out from the wall it’s adjacent to. "Apart from this, only light pruning is required to remove dead or damaged stems."

3. Mulch your shrubs

Hydrangeas are thirsty shrubs, so follow up your pruning with a good layer of mulch to help the soil retain moisture. If you're trying to be more sustainable in your garden, you can use homemade compost. Keep it away from the woody stem to prevent the risk of rot developing. 

If your hydrangea is planted in a pot, regular watering will be essential, says Pim – “especially in hot, dry summers when it may need to be done daily.”

When to prune hydrangeas

Hydrangeas that produce flowers on new growth should be pruned in spring. Other hydrangeas can be pruned either in autumn after flowering, or lightly in late winter to spring (they’re often one of the plants to prune in February). 

Note that leaving the flowerheads on over the winter can help to protect the plants from frost, so is often recommended in colder areas. 

The exceptions are climbing hydrangeas. These ones should be pruned after flowering in July or August, recommends Sarah. Don’t leave it too late after blooming, Harriet warns – “the buds of the new flowers start to form soon after the plant finishes flowering, and you don’t want to cut these off.”

FAQs

Should hydrangeas be cut all the way back?

Hydrangea paniculata and Hydrangea arborescens can be cut back hard to a neat framework of stems each year. Other varieties shouldn’t be pruned so aggressively, otherwise, you’ll sacrifice flowers for a season or two. Only cut them back hard if they need renovation.

When and how should you prune hydrangeas in pots?

Whether you have a cottage garden or a more modern space, smaller varieties of hydrangeas make brilliant container plants. Pruning them is just the same as hydrangeas in the ground, so be sure you know what variety yours is before you start snipping.

Do you deadhead or prune hydrangeas?

Deadheading your hydrangeas will also lightly prune them as you cut back the stems to a healthy bud. As mentioned above, some varieties will benefit from a harder prune.

Knowing how to prune hydrangeas is a useful skill to have up your sleeve, and will help you enjoy the stunning summertime flowers for years to come. The paler varieties are particularly well-suited to the quiet luxury garden trend – but all types are beautiful in our books.

Don't be fooled by their easy breezy nature: if you want your butterfly bushes to look their best, you need to learn how to prune buddleia (also known as buddleja) like a pro. 

You've likely spotted the resplendent purple blooms of the buddleia popping up all over the place of late, and that's because this is one of the best plants for beginners: they really are that simple to grow, so long as you have a nice sunny spot for your butterfly bush. 

That being said, your buddleia will need at least a little TLC in the form of an annual pruning session, one of the plants to prune in February onwards, especially if you're hoping for plenty of purple blooms over the summer months. 

One thing to bear in mind? Just as there are countless ways to prune roses, depending on the variety you're working with, so, too, you must identify which type of buddleia graces your garden before you go to town with the pruning shears...

How to prune buddleja

Knowing which variety of this highly-favoured cottage garden plant you have is key to determining how to prune more efficiently. "It’s important to know which buddleia you are growing to know when to prune, which is very easy," promises Morris Hankinson, director of Hopes Grove Nurseries.

Explaining that buddleia davidii looks like the buddleia that "grows just about anywhere, even out of cracks of the pavement and along train tracks", Morris goes on to stress that this variety is available in many different colours, from dark purples and red to white, lilac and pink. 

"Buddleja alternifolia is slightly different with more arching, thinner stems," he continues, "while buddleia globosa has round orange flowers and is really quite striking."

It's a similar story when looking at how to prune clematis because there are several popular varieties and each method of pruning will differ depending on the flowering type.

While there are other hybrids available as well, Morris adds that it's likely the majority of gardens will be graced by the not-so-humble buddleja davidii.

What you will need

You wouldn't start mowing your lawn or chitting your potatoes without the right gardening tools to hand, so be sure to prep accordingly before pruning your buddleja.

To that end, then, make sure you have:

• A pair of gardening all-purpose gloves
• A pair of bypass pruners
• A pair of bypass loppers

When to start the job

It's not just a case of learning how to prune buddleia; you need to know when to tackle the job, too – which, as you've likely already come to suspect, shifts depending on the variety you have at home.

"Buddleia alternifolia and globosa flower on stems from the previous season, so you should only ever remove oldest stems during midsummer," says Morris. "The aim with this is just a simple tidy, so you keep the shape of the bush."

If you're working with a buddleia davidii, however, your plant's pruning needs are going to be... well, they're going to be a bit more intense. As a result, you'll "need to schedule a hard pruning session every year between February and April," says Christopher O'Donoghue, one of the co-directors of Gardens Revived.

"The aim is to get to work before any new growth begins," he adds.

That's right: your buddleia absolutely belongs on your list of plants to prune in March, so be sure to wrap up warm and show it the love it deserves.

Step-by-step guide

Bold, beautiful blooms are one of those garden trends that never go out of style, especially now we're being encouraged to look after pollinators as much as we possibly can.

Learning how to prune buddleia is, thankfully, an easy way to boost your plant's blooming potential – not to mention help your butterfly bush do what it does best: keep butterflies well and truly sated with its rich supply of pollen.

1. Give your buddleia a good, hard prune

Using a pair of sharp, clean loppers (blunt, dirty blades are a surefire route to damaging your plant or, worse, spreading disease), you'll want "to cut your butterfly bush down to about 30cm from the ground, just above one bud or shoot," says Morris. 

"If you want your buddleia to grow tall, be sure to prune back to about 60cm from the ground,'" he adds, noting that larger stems may need to be removed with a pruning saw.

2. Use your secateurs to address the finer details

When pruning your buddleia, the aim (as always) is to "remove dead or damaged wood," says Christopher.

Morris agrees, adding that, should you "notice any dead stems, crossing branches or old dead smaller stems, you should use secateurs to prune these off and as far back as possible to avoid disease."

3. Maintain an open centre

If you're still sussing out how to prune buddleia, it's worth noting that you don't just want a low framework of stems: you also want to "maintain an open centre to improve air circulation," says Christopher.

4. Go for a hard prune

Just as you should do with your roses, the aim is to cut your buddleia bush back by a third.

"Cutting back a buddleia hard can look really quite brutal and you might wonder if it will ever grow back again," admits Morris, "but buddleia will soon grow new shoots and be in good shape with plenty of flowers the same year."

He adds that, if you want to extend flowering for later in the year, they can also be pruned during May to help pollinators later in the year.

FAQs

When should buddleia be pruned?

As most buddleja will flower on the branches that grow in early summer, you're best off pruning them before any new growth appears – between late February and mid-April.

How do I make my butterfly bush bushy?

"Buddleia davidii can grow very big and spread very easily so it’s important to keep in good shape and health," says Morris. "hey tolerate a hard prune, in fact, it’s better that you do, otherwise they can end up with a lot of straggly wood and a few flowers at the top."

He adds that as well as deadheading any spent flowers, a good hard pruning "between February and April will mean that you see more flowers at all levels of the plant, which is much more attractive".

Now that you know how to prune buddleia, you can rest assured that your butterfly bush will be the envy of all who see it. Which is, let's face it, the main reason we all garden in the first place, right? Happy pruning.

There are many plants to prune in March. This month marks the beginning of spring – when new growth begins – and getting your perennials in order is a must for a flourishing garden. It also gives you a good reason to get out and enjoy the warmer temperatures.

Whether you have a romantic, informal planting scheme or follow more modern garden trends, cutting back certain plants now will keep their shape and size under control. It will encourage strong, fresh growth, too.

Much like aerating your lawn or planting grass seed, these are essential gardening jobs that you'll be glad you've done come the warm weather.

With help from gardening experts, we've rounded up nine plants you can prune this month to keep them looking their best. Plus, there are top tips on how to trim each one more efficiently.

9 priority plants to prune in March

Just like when pruning plants in January, you need to tackle the plants to prune in March with the right tools. 

A sturdy pair of secateurs is a must for snipping stems. For larger branches, a pair of loppers or even a pruning saw can come in useful. For all your cutting tools, ensure blades are sharp and properly sanitised between each plant to prevent the spread of any diseases. 

You'll also need a good pair of gardening gloves to protect your hands.

1. Perennial mallow

Perennial mallows, with their silky blooms, are well-favoured plants for cottage gardens. And, according to gardening expert Mark Lane, they respond well to a hard prune this month. Otherwise, they can get very leggy, he says.

Flowers appear on the current year’s growth, he points out. "If you prune immediately after the frost has passed, the plant will send up new shoots in time for mid to late summer flowers."

Mark says you can remove between a third and a half of the overall growth, as well as any crossing, dead or diseased stems, to allow for good air circulation. Alternatively, you can prune the plant right back to almost ground level once new growth can be seen at the base (leave the new growth intact).

To protect the plant from frost, Matthew Peck, head of horticulture at Gates Garden Centre, adds: "Wait until the risk of frost has passed, as pruning makes the stems vulnerable and frost could damage them."

2. Boxwood

Boxwoods are evergreen shrubs that are ideal for formal, clipped hedging and topiary. And, according to Tim Marshall, Raby Castle’s head gardener, they are plants to prune in March.

"Pruning boxwoods in early spring helps in shaping them and encouraging new growth," he says. "It also allows more sunlight and air circulation into the centre of the plant, reducing the risk of disease."

Tim advises using secateurs to trim the outer foliage of the shrub to maintain the desired shape. "Avoid cutting into old wood, as it may affect regrowth," he warns.

"Sterilise tools regularly when in use, to reduce risk of spreading box blight," he adds – a useful gardening tip.

3. Barberry

"March is an ideal time to prune barberry to remove dead or damaged branches and improve the overall structure of the shrub," says Tim. It also promotes better flowering and berry production later in the season, he adds.

The process is simple. "Use secateurs and a pruning saw to cut back one-third of the oldest stems, starting with the largest ones," Tim instructs. "Trim back any crossing or inward-growing branches to open up the centre of the plant."

Barberry plants are often spiky (making them good privacy shrubs, a cheap way to block a neighbour's view). Because of this, remember to wear tough gardening gloves when cutting them back.

4. Winter jasmine

Winter jasmines are one of the best plants for early colour, with their bright yellow blooms cheering up any outdoor scene. Once they have finished flowering, they can be cut back. This will encourage fresh shoots for new flowers next year and keep the plants in good shape, and is usually done annually.

Matthew recommends removing any dead or diseased stems, as well as any wayward stems growing away from the main plant.

According to the Royal Horticultural Society, flowered stems can also be shortened to a strong side shoot. Remember to always check shrubs for nesting birds before you prune them.

5. Witch hazel

Witch hazel, a sweetly-scented flowering tree or shrub, generally won't need an annual pruning. However, if yours needs a bit of a tidy-up, now's the month to do it, once flowering has finished.

Arborist Ned Cromack says, "All you need to do is remove any dead, damaged, or diseased branches. If two branches are rubbing together, remove the weaker one. Suckers can develop at the base of the plant, and should also be removed.

"You can also lightly shape the canopy if needed, by cutting branches back to a healthy leaf bud or shoot," Ned continues. "Try to remove as little as possible, though – witch hazel is a slow-grower and its attractive, natural branch structure is one of its highlights."

6. Cornus

Also known as dogwoods, these shrubs are excellent for adding visual interest to the winter garden due to their vibrant stems. A popular variety is the Cornus sanguinea "Midwinter Fire", available at Crocus, with its flame-coloured hues. But if you don't prune them, their brilliant colour can fade.

"To prune cornus, you need secateurs and potentially a wood saw, depending on how well-maintained the plant is," says Matthew. "Hard prune the larger woody stems, and any broken or damaged wood," he instructs. You can then cut back the newer stems to just above the first bud to promote colourful new growth, he says.

The shrub should grow back quickly, but it's not always necessary to hard-prune it every year. Cut it back every other year instead.

Note that young cornus plants should not be pruned – wait two years or so, until they have established.

7. Mahonia

These upright, glossy-leaved, evergreen shrubs bring fragrant yellow flowers to the late winter garden. But some varieties can get very large, and outgrow their allotted space as a result.

"Once blooming has finished, mahonias can be cut back if necessary," says Ned. "You can cut back up to one-third of healthy growth, while dead or diseased branches should be removed entirely. Watch out for those spiky leaves – gloves are essential.

"If you need to rejuvenate a leggy mahonia, you can hard prune it by cutting it back to near ground level," Ned adds.

8. Roses

Whilst you may have mastered how to prune your roses, there's sometimes a little confusion as to when is the best time to do it and when it might be too late.

"If roses didn’t get pruned over winter, March is still a good time to do it. Remove any dead or crossing stems and shorten healthy shoots to keep the plant open and encourage strong flowering growth," explains our resident gardener, Orpheus Alexander.

Knowing when to prune your roses will help maximise their blooms and even help them bloom for longer.

9. Buddleja

As one of the best plants for pollinators, Buddleja Davidii is a common garden addition for most homeowners. Knowing how to prune it properly will encourage growth and large blooms, so it's a good idea to add it to your March pruning list.

"March is a good time to cut buddleja back hard. It flowers on new growth, so reducing it to around 30 cm from the ground encourages strong shoots and plenty of flowers later in summer," suggests Orpheus.

FAQs

What plants need pruning now?

As well as the plants to prune in March listed above, you can also prune many late-summer-flowering shrubs now, including Russian sage. You can prune clematis in group 3 now, too. Some plants to prune in February, such as buddleia, can also be cut back this month if you haven't trimmed them already. It's also your last chance to prune roses.

Avoid cutting back spring-flowering shrubs before they have bloomed; otherwise, you will likely reduce their blooming potential for this year.

What should I be doing in my garden in March?

Besides pruning, there are plenty of other jobs you can get on with this month. 

The promise of spring and summer ahead means you can start sowing seeds indoors, ready for planting out once frosts have passed. You can also plant summer-blooming bulbs, such as crocosmia, once the frosts are over. Daffodils can be deadheaded, but leave their foliage to die back naturally, as this will feed the bulbs for next year's blooms.

If you have a lawn, late March is often the time to first cut the grass after winter, too, provided it doesn't rain, because cutting wet grass is not advisable.

Pruning your garden is not only a good way to maintain your plants growth but it can also transfrom your garden on a budget. Cutting away withered stems, spent flowerheads and controlling growth will make all the difference with how your garden looks.

Every bit as tasty as they are good for you, blueberries are fast becoming one of the most popular 'grow your own' crops in the UK – not least of all because they look incredibly pretty in a garden. However, you need to learn how to prune blueberries if you want to reap the benefits of these superfoods and encourage a bumper crop.

That's right: just as every gardener worth their salt needs to learn how to grow roses, so, too, should they learn how to prune blueberries if they plan on growing them at home. And they ought to do it quickly, too, considering blueberry shrubs are one of the most important plants to prune in February and March.

Now, before you panic, it's worth considering how long you've had your blueberry shrub established. If it's been two years or less, you'll likely have to do very little – other than remove any crossing or unwanted branches if necessary,

If it's been over two years, though, grab a notepad: it's time to learn how to prune blueberries more thoroughly to boost how much fruit the bush provides.

How to prune blueberries

One of the most enduring garden trends around, more and more of us are growing fruit and veg than ever before, with blueberries proving especially popular among have-a-go gardeners as a key gut health superfood.

Just as these berries need acidic soil to thrive, though, they also need some TLC in the form of a yearly prune.

"Pruning is really important if you want to grow delicious, nutritious blueberries," explains Morris Hankinson, director of Hopes Grove Nurseries. 

Noting that it's especially "important to prune blueberries if you grow them in containers", Morris goes on to explain that the benefits of learning how to grow blueberries are twofold.

Firstly, pruning will help your shrubs "stay at a manageable size". And, secondly, pruning every year means your "blueberries will be rejuvenated, thrive and produce plenty of berries".

With that in mind, then, here's our expert guide on when to start and how best to do the job for a prize crop of blueberries...

What you will need

Just as you've likely found when chitting potatoes or mowing your lawn, any and all gardening jobs are made easier if you have the right tools to hand. It stands to reason, then, that the same is true of pruning blueberries.

• A pair of gardening all-purpose gloves
• A pair of sharp, clean secateurs
• A bag to collect your cuttings in

Step-by-step guide

As mentioned already, you won't need to learn how to prune blueberries until your shrubs have matured. In fact, pruning is "very rarely needed in the first two years after planting," says Christopher O'Donoghue, one of the co-directors of Gardens Revived.

"You want to give them time to settle and establish themselves," he explains. "Plus, if you take off too much new growth in this period, it will drive all of the plant's energy away from producing fruits."

Morris agrees, adding that "blueberries grow on wood that is at least a year old and the most blueberries will grow on two-year-old stems, so it’s important to look out for the older stems and not prune them off!"

"Stems that are older than about four years will unlikely grow fruit, so these can be removed,' he says. 'Young stems are easy to identify as they will be bright red."

1. Wait for the right moment

Timing is everything when learning how to prune blueberries, so be sure to wait until your plants are in their dormant period, so pruning in January might still be too early.

"You can tackle this gardening job between November and March," says Christopher, "although February is the best time, as you'll be able to spot the fruit buds more easily."

2. Clean your secateurs

It's important that you only ever prune your blueberries with a pair of sharp, clean secateurs, so be sure to prep yours before you get snip-happy with your shrubs.

"It's the best way to limit disease or causing the plant too much stress," says Morris.

3. Start trimming in earnest

"When sussing out how to prune blueberries, the goal is to keep some one to three-year-old stems," says Morris, noting that you will also need to "remove dead or diseased wood by pruning down to one healthy bud".

"Try to get a balance between young shoots, one to two-year-old stems, and some older three to four-year-old stems," he adds. 

"And be sure to consider the shape of the plant, too. The aim is to prune to an open bush shape where air can flow well and there are no crossing stems or any rubbing together."

Christopher also advises that you remove any stems that are touching the ground and that you tackle the ends of those branches that fruited last year by "cutting them back to a low, strong, upward-facing bud". A great gardening tip for all manner of pruning jobs when growing your own.

FAQs

Do blueberries need to be pruned?

It might not be the first job you think of when growing this tasty crop, but, just like any shrub, your blueberries will absolutely need to be pruned – not just to keep their size and shape maintained, but also to boost fruit production.

How do you prune blueberry bushes?

As per the guidelines set out by the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS), a mature blueberry bush should comprise about one-third old stems, one-third middle-aged stems and one-third young stems. 

When you're pruning, then, you should aim to remove:

• Damaged, dead or diseased stems: cut these stems off all the way back to where they join a thicker branch
• Rubbing or crossed stems: cut these off all the way down to the base of the plant to create a nice, open shape.
• One-third of the remaining branches: be sure to choose the oldest and thickest ones for removal, and try to make your cuts just above a younger strong shoot lower down on the branch.
• Stems that are touching the ground

Now that you know how to prune blueberries, you can get out there and get trimming. Just remember that this is a yearly chore, so be sure to mark your calendar so you don't forget to show your blueberry shrub some love come next February, too!

Learning how to prune clematis will come in handy when growing these vining, flowering plants. They're a favourite for screening walls and fences, but to keep them tidy, they benefit from a trim.

Just like learning how to prune roses correctly, cutting back clematis in the right way will reward you with better blooms. Plus, it'll lead to healthier plants that are a more suitable size for your outdoor space.

With help from the gardening experts, we've put together all the essentials in this practical guide, including advice on what time of year to prune your plant. Whether you're growing your clematis as part of a cottage garden or following more modern garden trends, these tips will help it look its best.

How to prune clematis, according to the experts

Harriet Worsley, the managing director at Worsley Design & Consultancy, says, "Pruning is all about putting the energy back into the plant, at the right time, to manipulate the growth to ensure magnificent flowers follow." It's an important step in helping your best plants flourish.

What you will need

Whatever garden job you're taking on, whether it's getting rid of moss in your lawn, cleaning a patio, or trimming a hedge, it's worth investing in the proper tools.

Tim Marshall, the head gardener at Raby Castle, highlights how using the right tools to prune clematis is essential for making clean cuts without damaging the plant. 

"A sharp pair of pruning shears or secateurs is a must for cutting through stems of varying thickness," he says. A pair of loppers may also come in handy, as will a pair of sturdy gardening gloves.

When to prune clematis

"Knowing when to prune your clematis is crucial, as different types require different pruning times to ensure optimal growth and flowering," says Tim. "Generally, clematis are divided into three main groups based on their flowering season."

Group 1 are the early-flowering clematis, including winter-flowering clematis. These should be pruned immediately after flowering, typically in late spring or early summer, Tim says.

Of the clematis varieties that Harriet plants for her clients, group 1 types include Clematis montana and Clematis macropetala ("these are gorgeous"), she says. "Then there are the Clematis cirrhosa and the big evergreen Clematis armandii that I don’t use so much."

Group 2 are the large-flowered clematis, like "Nelly Moser", that bloom in early summer on the previous year's growth, Tim notes.

These are plants to prune in February. If you prune them again after flowering, you might be rewarded with another flush of flowers later in the summer, says Harriet.

Finally, there's group 3, which are the late-flowering types of clematis, including Clematis viticella, Tim says. These bloom on new growth produced in the current season, he adds. "Prune these clematis hard in late winter or early spring to encourage vigorous growth and abundant flowering." Some gardeners prune these plants in January.

A step-by-step guide on how to prune clematis

Pruning clematis only takes a few steps. Just ensure you know which group your plant is in before you get started.

1. Prepare your tools

The first thing you need to do when pruning any plant is to get your tools ready. Whether you're using secateurs, loppers, or a bit of both, they should be sharp and clean. This will prevent the risk of passing pathogens onto your precious plants. 

You can use a disinfectant, such as Jeyes fluid, available from Amazon. As the Royal Horticultural Society (the RHS) advises, leave it on the blades for 15 to 20 minutes before wiping it off.

2. Get snipping

Once your tools are ready, it's time to start cutting your clematis. An important gardening tip to note here is that the right technique depends on the type of clematis you have...

• Group 1: "For group 1 pruning, cut out any dead or diseased stems, and any straggling tendrils, and cut the stems back to a good pair of buds," says Harriet. Pruning is not absolutely essential for these plants, she says – but they need to be kept in check in terms of growth, particularly the Montana and Armandii varieties that are vigorous and get enormous. "The pruning for these is really to ensure they don’t take over. "You shouldn’t cut into the main woody stems if they are established," Harriet continues. "However, for very young, newly-planted clematis in this group, we cut them right back to around 30cm from the ground after flowering, to help them establish stronger multiple leading stems. It feels a bit frightening to do this, but the shoots will emerge."
• Group 2: When pruning group 2, Harriet says to cut away the dead and diseased lateral stems, to above a set of good buds. "Don’t cut into the main stem – cut the offshoots." After flowering, you can cut the stems again – below the flowers, but just above a set of buds, she says.
• Group 3: This type of clematis needs to be cut right back to 30cm from the ground level, Harriet advises. "Make sure the cut is above some strong buds. It feels brutal, but you will be rewarded." You will only get flowers on the top section if you don’t prune, she adds.

3. Provide proper care afterwards

Clematis benefit from a layer of mulch to retain moisture and help keep the soil cool. So, once you've finished pruning, consider adding some compost or bark chippings around the base of your plant. 

Remember to water them during hot, dry periods, too, to encourage healthy growth.

FAQs

How do I know which group my clematis is in?

"To determine which group your clematis belongs to, observe its flowering time and habit," says Tim. 

"If in doubt, ask the nursery, refer to the RHS or look online to find out which group your clematis falls under," suggests Mark Lane, a gardening expert.

What happens if you prune a clematis at the wrong time?

"Pruning clematis at the wrong time can result in reduced or delayed flowering," says Tim. "For example, pruning a group 2 clematis too late in the season may remove the flower buds forming on the old wood, resulting in fewer blooms."

Just like making lawn care mistakes, you can chalk it up as a learning curve.

"If you prune at the wrong time, take note in a gardener’s diary and prune at the right time the following year," Mark says. "You may forego flowers that year, but the following year you will have a clematis that is the envy of all your neighbours."

How do you prune a neglected clematis?

"If a clematis has become unruly, pruning has been neglected, or you have inherited an overgrown clematis when buying or renting a new home, then you can carry out some regenerative pruning after flowering," Mark says.

He recommends cutting it back to around 10–15cm above ground level. It is advisable not to carry out such regenerative pruning again until a minimum of three years later, he says.

Once you've worked out what group yours is in, learning how to prune clematis is easy – and you can enjoy plenty of blooms year after year. 

Keen to learn how to prune roses like a pro? Now is the perfect time to get to work, as these beautiful flowering plants can be pruned during late winter when growth is just resuming, which is anywhere between February and March, depending on where you're based in the UK.

It sounds counterintuitive, but pruning is actually one of the easiest ways to maximise blooming and new growth, not to mention improve your plants’ health. In fact, taking the time to (carefully) remove all of those dead, diseased and dying stems will ensure that your roses are at their optimum best for the new growing season ahead.

It's time, then, to wrap up warm and pull on your favourite pair of gardening gloves, because, just as you should protect plants from frost and get rid of moss in your lawn right about now, this is one of those winter gardening jobs that will repay your efforts a thousand times over come the summer.

How to prune roses: an expert guide top all types

One of our most beloved classic cottage garden plants, the rose is one of the most popular flowers across the globe, with over 100 species and counting.

As a rule, though, almost all roses will benefit from good pruning in the late winter, which is why it's so important to master the basics of this must-do gardening task.

"Learning how to prune roses is an essential task for any gardener, because, when done correctly, it promotes healthier and more productive growth," says Steve Swanborough, a gardening expert at Henchman.

"This annual task is not just about keeping the plant looking tidy, but it also ensures your roses produce an abundance of high-quality, beautiful blooms to fill your garden with colour and fragrance," he adds.

As with any other gardening job, it's important to have the right tools to hand before you begin pruning your roses in earnest.

To that end, then, make sure you have:

When to start the job

It makes sense that, when learning how to prune roses, you should also spend some time brushing up on when to prune them.

"The best time to prune them is in late winter, before it starts active growth again come spring," says Steve, meaning roses are a plant to prune from January onwards. "This is because when it is dormant, it allows you to easily assess the plant to remove dead, diseased or damaged branches that may be harming the bush's overall health."

Not only does this help shape the plant, but Steve adds that it will "also encourage proper air circulation and sunlight penetration, which can help prevent fungal diseases and the spread of unwanted pests."

It's also important to "choose a day without frost or rain", says award-winning garden designer Zoe Claymore. "This will ensure that the cuts will have a better chance of healing without infection," she explains.

Step-by-step guide to pruning roses

If you want to get your roses ready for all of your favourite summer garden trends, it's a good idea to learn how to prune roses before you even think about touching a thorny stem with a pair of secateurs.

1. Prep your secateurs

While we're on the subject of garden tools, you'll also want to prep that same pair of secateurs before you begin pruning, too, to ensure you're doing the job properly.

"Use some good secateurs and sterilise them beforehand to reduce the chance of bringing in infection," says Zoe. "Take care to sterilise between roses as well, especially if you've had disease in your garden."

Zoe recommends cleaning with citric acid, as she adds. "Diluted citric acid can work well."

2. Remove any dead wood

To effectively prune your roses, Steve says that you should "start by removing any brown, dead wood using your secateurs".

As with all cuts on a rose, these should be placed no more than 5mm (¼ in) above a bud and should slope downwards away from it.

This will stop any water from collecting on the bud, and reduce your plant's chances of infection.

3. Take out any crowded branches

The next step in How To Prune Roses 101 is simple enough: you want to "take out any crossing or crowded branches, and thin or weak growth," says Steve.

Again, he says that you "should aim to make cuts half an inch above a bud at a 45-degree angle, sloping away from it".

With shrub and hybrid tea roses, Zoe says that you can "encourage an open-centred shape" by cutting to an outward-facing bud.

4. Don't be afraid to cut things back

Ideally, you'll want to cut your rose down by around a third. Whether you're generally sorting your garden out or pruning your roses, don't be scared to chop more than you think.

"If it is a new rose, you can cut an awful lot more off in the first years, so go for it," says Zoe. "And don't forget to cut off any spindly stems that couldn't hold a flower up!"

Steve agrees, adding that your rose bush will likely be significantly smaller and appear bare after pruning, but that you shouldn’t be alarmed. "It will grow back stronger and quicker come spring!” he promises.

5. Tailor the job for climbing roses

If you're trying to figure out how to prune a climbing rose, Zoe says to remember that "you are usually pruning them over something (called training) to a desired shape, so when you are pruning you need to consider the balance of the skeleton you are making alongside removing dead, diseased or dying shoots".

"If you've inherited a climber with only one thick old stem at ground level, shorten it by up to half but no more; it may not grow back, and see how it grows."

While climbing roses are one of the best plants for a pergola, they need to be pruned correctly for the desired effect.

6. Don't skimp on the mulching

When learning how to prune roses, the final step is simple: give your roses a dose of general or rose fertiliser in the spring, and be sure to mulch them generously with a thick layer of well-rotted manure or bark chippings.

Read our guide to mulching to get the best results from your efforts.

FAQs

What month do you prune roses?

All of our experts are in firm agreement: the best time to prune roses is during the late winter, when they are just resuming their growth.

"This will likely be sometime between February and March," says Zoe.

Rambling roses, however, are usually pruned in late summer, after their show of flowers and hips.

Should you cut off roses after they bloom?

Remember not to confuse pruning with deadheading (aka the removal of fading or dead flowers from plants), as the latter is best carried out in the summer after your roses have finished flowering. Just be sure not to deadhead any hip-producing roses if you want hips in the autumn/winter.

When it comes to deadheading plants properly, knowing the right time and what part of your plant to deadhead is incredibly important. If not, you can easily stunt growth or cause the plant distress.

What happens if you don't prune roses?

"There are three reasons to prune roses," explains Zoe. "Firstly, for their health, which will be improved by removing dead diseased or dying parts of the plant."

"Secondly, for their looks: by hard pruning your rose into a balanced structure, you will improve its appearance and encourage a strong branch framework that will enable flowers to be supported. Thirdly, by pruning them, you will likely encourage lots of new growth with many more flowers on," she continues.

What are the common mistakes when pruning?

It's all too easy to fall for the easy winter gardening mistakes, especially when it comes to pruning. But what exactly are the common pitfalls when it comes to roses?

"Pruning at the wrong time or making cuts that compromise plant health and future bloom. Winter-pruning once-blooming roses and ramblers removes the wood that carries next season’s flowers, and cutting during hard frost risks dieback," starts Dr Russell Sharp, Plant scientist and Founder of Eutrema.

"Leaving stubs, making ragged cuts, or cutting to inward-facing buds reduces airflow and invites disease, as does skipping dead, diseased and crossing wood. Using blunt or unsanitised tools spreads problems between plants, and over-pruning young roses or failing to tie in and fan out climbers leads to fewer flowering laterals and a weak framework," he adds.

Dr Russell also warns against using dirty secateurs; you need to be dipping them in vinegar or another plant-safe sterilant. You'll need to do this even if you're moving from one rose bush to another.

When should you not cut roses?

While roses should be on your list of plants to prune in February, you might be tempted to do it during other months of the year. There is some leeway; however, there are times when you should definitely not pick up the secateurs.

"I advise holding off whenever weather or bloom timing makes cutting risky or counterproductive. Avoid heavy pruning during hard frosts or immediately before a forecast freeze, do not winter-prune once-blooming types or most ramblers, and do not hard-prune newly planted roses in their first season," says Dr Russell.

He also advises against deadheading in late summer, should you want hips for autumn colour and wildlife. "It's also best to skip pruning when plants are drought-stressed, or the soil is waterlogged until hydration and drainage are corrected," he adds.

"In periods of active disease spread, focus on hygiene and tool cleaning, and if pests are the issue, favour targeted biologicals such as biological pesticides over removing otherwise healthy wood," finishes Dr Russell.

Now that you know how to prune roses, you can set to work making sure your garden is filled with beautiful blooms come the summertime. Good luck.

If you're unsure which plants to prune in February, you've come to the right place. With spring on its way, plenty of trees, woody shrubs, and other perennials can be tidied up this month to prepare them for the year ahead.

If you haven't done so already, many of the plants to prune in January can still be cut back now and should be done before they fall into the category of plants to prune in March. But as temperatures slowly rise, in addition to what you can plant in February there are others you can turn your secateurs to. In doing so, you can improve your plants' health and performance, and even encourage more flowers, as they put on new growth.

Below, you'll find expert suggestions of what can be trimmed in your garden this month, from pruning roses to pruning wisteria, plus practical tips on how to go about it.

10 key plants to prune in February and how to prune each one correctly

Whichever of your best plants you're cutting back, there are a few essential pruning tips to remember before you get started.

Pim Dickson of Mr Fothergill’s Seeds Limited says, "Always begin by removing any dead or diseased material, then clean the cutting blades to prevent the spread of disease before moving on to any formative pruning.

"Shaping plants by formative pruning helps them to reach and maintain their full ornamental potential," Pim continues. "Pruning is also done at this time of year for renewal, to reinvigorate old shrubs that need rejuvenation."

When pruning, Tim Marshall, the head gardener at Raby Castle, says to always cut just above a healthy bud or lateral branch to encourage proper regrowth. "Be mindful of the plant's natural shape and growth habit, as over-pruning can hinder its overall health and vigour," he adds.

Just like when to first cut the grass after winter or when to plant grass seed, the best time to carry out pruning is weather-dependent. Always choose a dry day, as pruning in the wet can damage plants, similar to cutting wet grass after rain.

"You need to be cautious to not prune too early," adds Marcus Eyles from Dobbies. "Frost can still appear in March, especially in the north of the UK, which could cause damage to some plants."

1. Hydrangeas

Marcus says, “For stunning large flowers in summer, prune hydrangeas as soon as the worst of the winter frosts have finished." Only after this time, to ensure you protect the plant from frost. He recommends removing last year’s flowers, by cutting back to a strong, outward-facing bud.

Tim adds how, as well as encouraging more blooms, pruning hydrangeas in February helps control their size and shape. You can also remove any dead or damaged wood at this time, he says.

You can trim away one or two of the oldest stems from the base, too, says Chris Bonnett, the founder of GardeningExpress. This will promote the growth of fresh, new stems that can yield more flowers. 

"Climbing hydrangeas are an exception – they are generally pruned in summer after flowering," Chris adds. This is an important gardening tip to take on board, otherwise, you may hinder their blooming for the upcoming year.

2. Climbing roses

It's key to prune roses in February to remove all of those dead, diseased and dying stems to ensure your roses are at their optimum best for the new growing season ahead.

“When pruning climbing roses, tidy up side shoots that branch off the main stems," advises Chris. "Only trim the main shoot if you want to reduce its length. After pruning, tie the remaining shoots to their support structure to keep them secure and encourage growth in the desired direction."

3. Lavender

Lavender is a beautiful plant well-suited to cottage gardens and modern patios alike. Now is a good time to give it a tidy. Tim says, "Pruning lavender in February helps prevent woody growth, promotes better air circulation, and encourages bushier growth."

"Trim back the stems by one-third of their length, making sure to cut just above a pair of healthy leaves. Avoid cutting into the old wood, as it may not regenerate."

A quality pair of secateurs, such as these Felco ones from Crocus, are a good tool for the job.

4. Wisteria

Wisteria may be a cottage garden trend favourite but it has an aggressive growth habit which can overtake landscapes quickly and lead to it becoming problematic. The secret to taming this 'invasive' garden plant overtaking your garden there are two key times to prune – winter and summer.

Pruning your plant in February is the best time for the winter prune because temperatures are not as low so there's therefore less threat of frost damage. "Prune summer growth back to 2-3 buds per shoot to encourage flowering in spring and summer," says Chris.

5. Japanese maples

Ned Cromack, arborist and founder of The Bath Tree Company, says, "It’s best to prune Japanese maples, such as Acer palmatum, when they are dormant in the winter months. Any other time of year will cause the sap to bleed, which makes the healing process more difficult and can make the trees more susceptible to disease. This means that February is your last chance to tidy yours up, if it needs it."

Ned recommends cutting out any dead branches. Look for branches that are rubbing against each other, too, as this can cause damage to the tree over time. "Cut back the smaller or less desirable one to the next fork.

"Any branches that have grown too long for the space or in comparison to the rest of the canopy can also be trimmed," Ned adds. "Always aim to take as little off as possible to lessen the stress on the tree – you can always remove more the following year."

Contact an arborist to do the job for you if you feel unsure, Ned says. You'll also need to check your tree doesn't have a tree protection order before you prune it. Check that you don't live in a conservation area, too, Ned adds – "If you do, you'll need to get permission from your local council beforehand."

These Darlac telescopic ratchet loppers from Crocus are good for cutting through thick branches.

6. Buddleia

Now is the time to prune this highly-favoured cottage garden plant. “February is also the ideal time to prune back your buddleia to ensure it remains compact and produces many more flowers," says Marcus. "Wait until the worst of the winter has passed and it will bloom in summer – not only adding a burst of colour to your garden but also providing a valuable food supply for butterflies."

"February pruning encourages the development of new branches and enhances the bush's overall shape," says Tim. "Cut back all the stems to around 12 inches above the ground. This severe pruning stimulates strong regrowth."

7. Cotinus

Pim notes now February is the perfect time of year to prune flowering shrubs that need some renovation, such as cotinus, also known as the smoke bush.

"As they mature, ornamental shrubs can become sparse and flowerless," he says. "Pruning the old main stems right back in winter will encourage vigorous new spring growth to bring them back to their full potential."

Follow up by feeding the shrubs with a good layer of mulch. Remember, early spring is a good time to fertilize your lawn, too. 

Speaking of flowering shrubs, the gloriously yellow forsythia can be planted in February, to bring plenty of spring cheer to your outdoor space.

8. Fuchsias

“Hardy fuchsias can inject colour into the garden for years if cared for properly, but they can also be quite unwieldy plants, so pruning them is important," Marcus says.

He says to keep an eye out for buds at the base – if these are starting to show in February, you can start pruning the plants. However, he recommends checking the weather forecast first, to make sure there’s not a hard frost due.

To prune, remove any weak and dead stems, then cut back each stem to a pair of healthy leaf buds, to create a compact shape. Older shrubs that need rejuvenation can be cut right back to ground level.

9. Ornamental grasses

Planting ornamental grasses is a garden trend that's here to stay. And they are great plants to prune in February, says Russel Birchell, the founder of Hedging UK.

"They are a diverse group of plants ranging from small, clump-forming varieties to tall, screen-like types. Cutting them back in late winter helps to remove last year's yellowed, dried foliage, clears away untidy growth, and improves appearance. It also helps to remove any damage or disease that may have developed and gives the plants a fresh start for the new growing season."

It's important to check the variety of grass you have, as their pruning needs can differ. According to the Royal Horticultural Society (the RHS), deciduous grasses can be cut back hard, while evergreen grasses generally just need dead material removed. "Warm-season grasses can be cut back sooner than February and for evergreen types like pampas grass, wait until the risk of frost has passed," Russell says.

Russell recommends using clean, sharp garden shears for smaller ornamental grasses – "Grab clumps of blades and cut them back to within several inches off the ground." If you're cutting larger grasses back hard, a string trimmer can be used – this Black+Decker one from Amazon is well-rated. "Always remove any flower stalks from the prior year as well, to stimulate new growth," Russell adds.

10. Citrus trees

You can also prune citrus trees, such as lemons and limes, in February, according to the RHS. This will help to keep them looking their best.

Make careful cuts to improve the overall shape of the plant and thin out congested branches to open up the structure. If your tree is looking leggy, cutting it back by up to two-thirds and reducing the tallest stem will encourage bushier growth, the RHS notes.

Citrus trees often have thorny branches, so remember to wear a sturdy pair of gardening gloves, such as these leather ones by NickyPicky at Amazon.

FAQs

How to prune plants in February

“Pruning in February allows plants to be maintained while they’re dormant, setting them up for strong, healthy growth and a stunning floral display once the warmer months arrive," says Chris Bonnett, plant expert and founder of GardeningExpress. “Pruning techniques vary by plant, and February is a great time to focus on specific types, such as summer flowering shrubs, fruit trees, and climbing roses."

“For flowering shrubs, start by removing old flowers and any dead or damaged branches. Use loppers to make clean cuts at a diagonal angle just above a bud – this helps water run off the cut area, preventing rot and disease. This method encourages healthy growth and vibrant blooms in spring and summer."

“Fruit trees, such as apple and pear, should be pruned while dormant, before the sap starts rising in spring, making February an ideal time. Focus on removing dead, diseased, or crossing branches to improve air circulation and overall tree health. Always cut just above a healthy bud and avoid removing too much at once. Take your time, step back to assess the tree’s shape, and aim for a balanced structure – over-pruning can stress the tree and reduce fruit production."

Can I cut back perennials in February?

Many perennial shrubs can be cut back now, including hydrangeas, lavender, and buddleia, mentioned above (although wait a little longer if you expect more frosts on the horizon). This allows you to tidy them up before new growth gets underway. Just like in January, roses can also be cut back now.

Can you cut back hedges in February?

Deciduous hedges, such as hazel, can be pruned in winter, before they start into new growth. Generally, it's advised to wait for slightly warmer weather to arrive before you trim back evergreens. Avoid pruning any spring-flowering hedge plants now, such as forsythia, as you'll prevent them from blooming.

Always check for nesting birds, first. If you spot them, you'll need to wait until they have gone.

If you’re looking for an outdoor job to crack on with, there are plenty of plants to prune in January. So it’s time to clean off your secateurs and start snipping.

Most plants are dormant this month, and not all will benefit from a wintertime chop. But for some, January is the perfect time to control their shape and size, remove dead branches, and thin out congested areas. Not only can this improve your best plants’ health and appearance in the long term, but it can also increase their yield if they’re the flowering, fruiting, or berrying kind.

With the help of gardening experts around the UK, we delve into which plants benefit from a prune this month, plus advice on how to do so. As an essential January gardening job, this is one task you’ll be glad you did when warmer weather arrives.

8 important plants to prune in January

Whether you’re painting a shed, mowing your lawn, or carrying out any other gardening job, you need the right tools for the best results. And pruning is no exception.

If in any doubt, or if you need to prune up high, it’s best to hire a professional arborist to tackle trees and hedges for you.

Ensure your tools are sharp and clean to avoid spreading diseases from one plant to another. A sturdy pair of gardening gloves is also essential to protect your hands from any sharp branches, thorns, or irritant sap.

Note that it’s also best to prune on a dry day when snow and frost aren’t forecasted, to prevent damage to your plants – similar to not cutting wet grass after rain.

Bypass secateurs are useful for cutting softer growth (and deadheading in the summer).

1. Summer-flowering clematis

Group three clematis that flower in late summer (such as "Abundance" and "Étiole Violette") can be pruned back in winter, once buds show signs of new growth, to prepare your blooms ready for summer garden trends. Otherwise, they can grow into tangled messes, with flowers forming only at the ends of the stems.

Hannah Rowson, assistant garden centre manager at J.Parker’s, advises cutting back all the stems to 30cm above the ground. Remove any dead or damaged stems, too, she adds.

When determining how to prune a clematis, we suggest making your cuts just above a set of healthy buds. New growth should appear quickly.

2. Roses

Roses are a classic cottage garden plant, and late winter is the time to prune them.

Tim Marshall, head gardener at Raby Castle, says, "Pruning roses in January promotes vigorous growth and abundant flowering in the upcoming seasons.

"Firstly, remove any dead, damaged, or weak growth," he instructs. "Secondly, trim the remaining healthy stems by about one-third, while ensuring an outward-facing bud is left above a growth node. This helps maintain an open shape and encourages air circulation, reducing the risk of fungal diseases."

Knowing how to prune roses is essential. Make your cuts at an angle, just above a healthy bud.

Give your roses a dose of fertiliser and a layer of mulch in spring to help them thrive. Consider fertilising your lawn at this time, too.

3. Apple and pear trees

Knowing when to prune apple trees and pears will not only ensure the health of the plant but also increase fruit growth.

"Pruning fruit trees during January promotes optimal fruit production and overall tree health," says Tim.

"Begin by removing any dead and diseased branches, cutting them back to the nearest healthy bud or the branch collar. Next, thin out crowded branches to allow sunlight and air to reach the centre of the tree canopy, preventing fungal diseases.

"Prune vertical branches into outward-facing and horizontal ones to improve fruiting and prevent breakage from heavy fruit loads," Tim continues.

"Finally, remove any water sprouts (upright, vigorous shoots) and suckers (shoots emerging from the base) to redirect the plant's energy towards fruit production."

You can also remove signs of canker, points out Matthew Peck, head of horticulture at Gates Garden Centre. This disease causes sunken, dead areas of bark and can eventually kill branches as it spreads.

Spear & Jackson's folding pruning saw, available at Amazon, will come in handy for removing thicker stems.

Wait until summer to prune trees that produce stone fruits, such as cherries. Following this gardening tip will make them less vulnerable to silver leaf, a fungal infection.

4. Fruit bushes

Autumn-fruiting raspberries should be pruned hard in January, Matthew says. To prune raspberries, you can cut the old canes that have already fruited right back to the ground, making way for new springtime growth.

You can also prune blackcurrants at this time, by cutting up to a third of the older, darker stems down to ground level.

Other fruiting plants to prune in January include gooseberries and redcurrants, he lists. "This allows the healthy young wood to produce an abundance of fruit."

5. Privet

Privet is one of the best plants for privacy, but to keep these bushes neat, consider giving them a prune this month.

Russell Birchell, the founder of Hedging UK, says, "Privet hedges are extremely hardy and can handle very aggressive pruning in January to help promote bushier regrowth in the summer months.

"When trimming a formal privet hedge, cut back quite far into the current year's growth and remove up to 1/3 or even 1/2 of the length of the stems.

"By cutting back hard like this, you force lots of new shoots to grow from many points along the remaining stem, rather than just the tips, and this helps thicken up the growth. Try to prune into a neat, even surface across the top and sides to maintain the hedge shape."

Russell also recommends cutting the sides at a slight outward angle, keeping the bottom of the hedge slightly wider than the top. "Be systematic when working along the hedge so you don't miss areas," he adds.

Before you cut your hedge, check for nesting birds. If you spot any, wait until the end of winter to prune.

6. Wisteria

Chris Bonnett, founder of the online garden centre GardeningExpress, recommends pruning wisteria in January.

"Wisteria tends to grow its best when pruned twice a year," he says. "Winter is usually when the bulk of the pruning is done, but you should aim to do this again in the summer, around July or August, to help you control the size."

To prune this plant in January, Chris says to remove any dead growth. Then, look for the main framework of the plant and selectively prune the branches to control the size and shape, he says. "Don’t overdo it, as this could limit the amount of flowering when spring and summer approach."

7. Grape vines

Grape vines are fast-growing perennials that need pruning in the winter, when they are dormant, to produce a good quality crop later in the year. Pruning any later will cause the sap to bleed from the cuts, which can weaken the plant.

However, note that if your grape vine is planted somewhere susceptible to late frosts, it’s worth waiting to prune until early spring. This will reduce the risks of new shoots being damaged.

Prune the plants hard, cutting back old side shoots to two buds, and reducing the length of old, main branches if they’re getting too large for their space. Just a framework of old branches should remain, as fruits will only grow on new wood.

8. Spiraea

Spiraea is one of the fastest-growing shrubs with varieties that bloom in either spring or summer. Summer-blooming types, which flower on new wood, are the plants to prune in January.

"Pruning deciduous shrubs in January rejuvenates the plants, enhances flowering, and maintains a compact shape," says Tim.

"Start by cutting back old, woody stems to the ground, promoting the growth of fresh shoots. Shape the shrub by selectively removing one-third of the oldest stems entirely to encourage new growth from the base.

"Additionally, remove any crossing or inward-facing branches to improve air circulation and prevent diseases," he adds.

FAQs

Is January too early to prune roses?

January is the start of the season for pruning roses. However, if you’re expecting very cold weather ahead, with potential hard frosts, you may wish to wait a month or so longer to reduce any risks of damage. The same can be said for pruning plants in February.

If you do decide to wait, make sure you trim your roses just as fresh growth starts, and no later. Otherwise, you may reduce your plants’ blooming potential.

Is it ok to prune shrubs in January?

Many deciduous shrubs can be pruned in January, including beech and hazel. Avoid the temptation to prune evergreens, as this can make them more susceptible to winter damage, says Matthew Peck of Gates Garden Centre.

Hold off from pruning spring-flowering shrubs, too, such as forsythia. If you prune them now, you’ll chop off their buds before they have a chance to bloom.

Can I prune fruit bushes in January in the UK?

Most fruit bushes can be cut back in January, but avoid making a winter gardening mistake by pruning summer-fruiting raspberries, which should be cut back just after they have fruited.

Are there any specific ways of pruning that are best suited for winter?

You may not think it, but pruning plants in May will bring different challenges than when you start pruning plants in February. Not only will you probably have to wear some warming gloves, but your plant's conditions will differ, too.

Nadezdha Yaneva, a gardening expert at Fantastic Gardeners, explains this, "When pruning any plant in January, it is important to use sharp and clean equipment, making small cuts just above a bud or lateral branch. Always tailor your pruning approach based on the particular growth conduct of the vegetation in your garden or lawn."

Graham also mentions that you may want to assess the shape and structure of your plants as they will change through the seasons. He says, "You'll have to make some changes to accommodate if a plant has become lopsided or overcrowded."

Can you cut back perennials in January?

Before you get too ahead of yourself, sorting the garden out in the new year, you'll want to be a little cautious with which perennials you're cutting back in January.

"Whilst some dormant perennials, such as buddleia, roses, lavender and summer-flowering spirea will all benefit from being cut back in January, other perennials, including echinacea or rudbeckia, form valuable food sources for wild birds in the cold months," says Lucie Bradley, gardening expert at Easy Garden Irrigation.

"In addition, evergreen perennials such as ferns, hellebores, heuchera should be allowed to keep their foliage all year round, only removing damaged or diseased parts, and by leaving the foliage of some tender perennials in place you will help to insulate the crown from weather damage, including hardy fuchsias, penstemons and red hot pokers," she adds.

Can I trim hedges in January in the UK?

Whilst you may know how to prune your conifer hedges, you may be wondering if it's beneficial to do so in January.

"Depending on the type of hedge you have will affect whether it’s suitable to be trimmed in January. If you have a hedge formed from an evergreen, such as boxwood, cherry laurel, holly, leylandii, privet or yew, then January is not the best time to trim them as they are susceptible to frost damage and diseases when pruned during the winter months, when it can be cold and damp," says Lucie.

If, however, you have a deciduous hedge formed from beech, blackthorn, hawthorn, hazel or hornbeam, then a frost-free day in January could be the best time to do a winter trim.

"Whilst a deciduous hedge is dormant, you can carry out hard pruning, which should result in better, stronger, healthier growth when spring arrives. Just ensure that your hedge is free from early nest-building birds and that you only work on a mild day, as frosty weather will mean brittle branches are easily broken, and any damage takes longer to heal and doesn’t heal as well," continues Lucie.

Just remember, whilst you're snipping away with your secateurs, that there are a few plants that you should never prune in January. Doing so can affect their long-term health and leave them vulnerable to the cold or frost.