We've just come back from Umbria - it was gorgeous. Lovely medieval hill towns, great architecture, art, history and landscapes. Wonderful fresh food too - the best grilled vegetables and salads we've eaten in years.

We stayed at Lake Trasimeno as our base (Castiglione del Lago) and saw Assisi, Montepulciano, Pienza, Orvieto and Gubbio. I would say pace yourself and don't try to see too many sights. We did our visiting in the mornings and then cycled or swam in the afternoons as it was too hot for much else.

Take lots of reasonable clothes as the Italians don't do 'scruffy' --which I usually am on my hols -- and be prepared to take a long time over lunch as the Italians do 'slow' food. If you're not aware, there is also a standard restaurant cover charge of 2 euro per person for 'pane e coperto' which is the linen and bread basket you are brought when you sit down. For two of you, that's nearly Ł4 before you've even tasted a morsel!